Firewood OK to burn @ 22-26%?

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wood-fan-atic

Minister of Fire
Oct 4, 2010
872
Long Island, NY
Hey all. Ive been burning for 15 years in my hand-me-down large Dutchwest Catalytic. She was starting to get some body leaks, so a few weeks ago I purchased a new insert made by Stove Builders Intl. under the "Flame" name-brand. She burns pretty sweet, but I was wondering if anyone is familiar with burning slightly above 20% ( 22-26) MC hardwood ( mostly oak, some cherry,ash) in this type of insert?
 
How are you measuring?

The birch I am burning is about that with a fresh split in the center and while it's burning "ok" I think it would do much better if it had another year to dry.
 
I have a moisture meter- I split a 6" wide piece , and take measurement from fresh split
 
.........but I have about 4 1/2 cords c/s/s last February and now most of it is down to 18-22%. Will my insert still crank @ near max efficiency with some 24-27% mixed in? Anyone experience would be greatly apprieciated !!! Thanks!
 
The problem you have with not properly seasoned wood is that it is hard to get started burning and therefore you get lots of smoke and gas effect. This is what causes creosote in the chimney and is one of the worst things for any wood burner to have to handle. Once the initial fire is going, there is still a battle to be won but is usually lost. That said, plenty of folks do burn their wood like this. Probably the best way to burn such fuel is to maybe add just one split on top of some good wood and burn the fire plenty hot.

Sadly though, you end up burning a lot more wood than you should and still have to fight the creosote problem. I know around here one winter we had to burn some fresh cut white ash. We had the creosote problem and kept on top of it by cleaning 3 or 4 times that winter. It was a problem at almost every load to get the fire going. If the wife was left alone the house was almost always cold and she just couldn't seem to get a fire going no matter what. We learned to reload the stove earlier than we normally would just so we had some flame to work with rather than just coals. That winter we did not freeze but were uncomfortable a lot of the time. We also burned much more wood that year than normal and it was without a doubt the most wood we ever burned in one winter.

With our new stove and good wood we now burn about 50% of the amount of wood we used to burn. I give credit to both the new stove and good fuel.
 
Wood-Genie, you are using a moisture meter to check your wood. One thing you should know is that the entire wood industry expresses MC in wood using what is called "dry-basis". Dry-basis means that the weight of the wet wood is first determined, the water is removed (usually in an oven until it stops losing weight) and the final weight is recorded. The difference between the weight of the wood and the oven-dry wood is then divided by the weight of the oven-dry wood to get the starting dry-basis MC of the wood.

For example, taking a piece of wood that weighs 10 pounds and drying it in an oven until all the moisture is gone might give you a final weight of 7.5 pounds. The original water weight would then be known to be 2.5 pounds.

Dividing 2.5 by 7.5 (the oven-dry weight) gives a starting MC of 33%.... dry-basis. When we think of this problem, we say, "Well, the wood weighed 10 pounds, it lost 2.5 pounds, so it must have been 25% MC to begin with." And you would be correct... if you are speaking of the wet-basis method of expressing moisture content.

The problem with using a moisture meter is that they are all calibrated for the dry-basis method of expressing MC, because that is the method the wood industry uses to express MC. The fact is, the higher your starting MC is, the more difference there will be between these two figures. It's simply mathematical.

If you are getting a reading of 27% on your meter, the actual MC of your wood using the wet-basis is only 27/127 = .21 x 100 = 21%MC. Saying it differently, if the meter says it has a MC of 27%, there is only about 21% water in it by weight. Doesn't make sense, but this is the truth.

On the other extreme of your measurements, if your meter says the wood is at 18%, the wet-basis MC of your wood is 18/118 = .15 x 100 = 15% water by weight.

The bottom line is that your meter is really telling your that your wood only varies by 6% in water weight across the entire range of your measurements. Will wood that is 15% water by weight burn significantly better than wood that is 21% water by weight? I don't believe so, but try it in your stove and judge for yourself. To top it off, if you are using the meter correctly, you are splitting the wood and measuring the inside. What about the outside? The stove only knows about the average water content. If you are getting 27% MC on the inside but only 12% on the outside, your wood will be averaging less than 20% water weight for the entire split.

Lastly, moisture meters are really only measuring the resistance to the flow of electricity in the wood and expressing the resistance in %MC instead of ohms. But despite what your meter reads, they are only truly accurate up to about the fiber saturation point of the wood, which in nearly all wood is about 30% MC dry-basis. Above 40% they are nearly useless. So when you get a reading of 27% on your meter, you are already near the end of the range of accuracy that the instrument can deliver. Species variation at this MC can account for a 2-3% difference in accuracy. Pro meters have programs built into them to account for species variation at higher moisture contents. Cheap meters don't.

I think that, in general, the moisture meter is an interesting tool, but I wouldn't let an almost arbitrary reading it gives me determine if the wood is ready to burn. I'd put it away for the season if you don't want to give yourself an ulcer. My gut tells me your wood will burn at near peak efficiency.
 
Thanks Savage & Battenkiller. Much obliged. All's well in the firebox 2day!
 
Hey Wood Geenie,

I'm far from an expert/ Last year I purchased a cord of wood that was less than seasoned so I put some construction debris in with my cordwood. It seemed to help with start up. I don't know if that's helpful to you or not, but that was my solution to help bring some dry wood into the firebox. Where on Long Island are you? I'm in Sound Beach.
 
Hey DaFattKid - I'm in Levittown. Im having absolutely no problem starting or burning with my current stock. I just purchased this new 'Flame' insert from Westbury Stove, and I'm tinkering with my new toy. So far, so good. Burnin much more efficient that my 20 yr. old Vermont Castings Dutchwest Cat. Even with a new catalyst, the cement was cracking and she was starting to leak- causing less than optimal burn.
 
Great to hear you bought a new stove. I think you're going to enjoy this winter. Good luck with it!
 
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