First season with wood ever - Jotul Oslo - Break In Period (Oops?)

[ontherise]

Hello!

We bought an Oslo about 6 months back and finally have the construction and chimney attachment done (Selkirk MetalBestos through the inside of a two story colonial.. Straight shot probably around 25+ feet or so to the top piece). Burned starting fire #1 last night (the 200 degree one). Had some struggles getting it going but once I did it kept going nice. I pretty much just used small kindling/tinder and kept the front control all the way to the right.

This morning we did break in burn number 2 (supposed to max at 300) and again found we had to keep the control all the way right. It wasn't building up as nice as I wanted to temp so I added a split of a split (I took a couple splits and split them further for this burn). Ended up getting the corner temp (happened to be the corner the flames were licking most) to about 360/370. Warm day here (64 in the house, probably 66/67 outside) so I'm hoping not too much stress on the stove but I don't think the extra 60/70 degrees will hurt it? I ended up moving the lever all the way to the left and it is a mostly coals and small flame fire now.. Heat going back down towards 300.

Really excited getting these fires going and really looking forward to needing to get it to secondary burn temperature in a few weeks up here in NH. Videos of those look pretty neat. Ended up trying the Top Down method i read about here for todays fire. Much nicer. We definitely have a firebox full of smoke for the first couple minutes, though. I imagine we have plenty of draft, could just be the quality of newspaper or dampness of wood (cut and split in April/May, live in a really windy area for drying but took some pieces from the top of the uncovered pile with recent rains/dew)

Thanks for all the good comments, answers to questions and everything else on these forums. We have a 2 year seasoned cord stored at a neighbors house that we'll be using first for the real burning (I read that the Jotuls or any EPA stove are really sensitive to needing seasoned wood.. Hoping by the time we go through that first cord the stuff cut/split/stacked first will be dryer in basement/stored near stove also).

We'll be relying on our Oil to help heat some far upstairs bedrooms. House setup isn't ideal but we moved some walls and took out a couple doors/headers in the room it is in to better circulate. House is about 2300SF. Firelight was too big to get where the Mrs. wanted it.

 

[begreen]

It should be fine. One more break in fire and it'll be good to go. As the outdoor temperatures decline you should see a big difference in draft and ease of starting. Don't be surprised if it acts like a completely different stove when the temps get in the 40's or lower.

You are correct about drying the wood. Some species dry out more quickly than others. If this is white oak, it may need two years to be ready. But check the new wood every few weeks to see how it is coming along. Resplit a couple splits and check the fresh face of the split for moisture.

 

[ontherise]

Thanks. Doing burn number 3 tonight. How long should it take to get up to 300-400? Still trying to figure it all out and get my firestarting mojo on. For example.. Tonight, I started a top down fire with smaller splits (I don't want to get too hot) of splits and then some kindling/tinder newspapers.. Started that about 1.5 hours ago now and stove top is finally just reaching 300. Still wide open. I've added some larger splits of splits and right now have 3 in there going. Can definitely hear them going (not boiling/steaming.. just hear the wind and have some real nice red embers pushed up front to the air inlet on the bottom/front). I hesitate to add more logs and have too much heat but curious about average build up when starting cold.

From the first two fires I had a decent film of soot on the glass. Normal? It wasn't anything I couldn't see through by any stretch, just made the fire look smokey tonight until I opened the door and realized it was quite clear and clean burning in there.

 

[BrotherBart]

My Jotul F3 takes about 45 minutes to an hour to get up to 450-500 from dead cold. Drives me nuts since I am a steel stove lovin kinda guy and can get one of them cranking in thirty minutes. But the little Jotul is burning clean after twenty or thirty minutes.

Once you start running the stove over four to four fifty and up the glass will start to clean itself off as it burns that stuff off of it and just leaves some residue.

 

[ontherise]

I wonder if it is just the way I am loading it lighter right now (Don't want to go over the break in temps) or perhaps a problem with the thermostat.. Though I can stand being in front of the glass without issue

 

[BrotherBart]

What thermostat?

Nah, you are just worried about hurting your new stove. Going a little over those temps in the book ain't gonna break your stove. The break in burns are to cure the furnace cement in the joints and "cure" the cast iron. Which is probably pretty much done by now anyway. I won't advise you to do it but if it was mine it would be cruising at five hundred by now.

 

[Green Energy]

Congratulations on your stove and break-in burns. With the right wood, dry (20% or less moisture content) small splits, arranged in a loose fitting way to maximize air flow between the splits and fire startup, I get my Oslo up to 400 F in 30-40 minutes. You'll get the hang of it. You do need to put enough wood in as well.

50 or 75 F above the guidelines should not be a problem. I bet you cann't wait for it to get cold so you can get the full light show. The two year seasoned cord should be good. Having dry, well seasoned wood is the biggest issue. I learned this last season and have much better seasoned wood this year. I am getting next winter's wood now.

We have been very happy with our Oslo.

GE

 

[ontherise]

I followed the manual and bought a stove top thermostat. Still after 2.5 hours it is reading 350.. Unless you get to within a few feet of the stove, you wouldn't feel it on yet. I just lowered the air control valve in the front to half from full. I know the manual says that is supposed to be at full right to increase heat but I wonder if the tallish straight chimney is making it burn out faster anyway. Added a larger "real" split also. Hoping to really get it to that 400-500 range for this third break in fire to let the Enamel off gas while I can keep the windows open (probably 55 out right now up here) and have it ready to use for those mornings when sweatshirts just don't cut it (going to do my best to be militant about the oil heat being used for "make up" and hot water only

 

[ontherise]

Congratulations on your stove and break-in burns. With the right wood, dry (20% or less moisture content) small splits, arranged in a loose fitting way to maximize air flow between the splits and fire startup, I get my Oslo up to 400 F in 30-40 minutes. You'll get the hang of it. You do need to put enough wood in as well.

50 or 75 F above the guidelines should not be a problem. I bet you can wait for it to get cold so you can get the full light show. The two year seasoned cord should be good. Having dry, well seasoned wood is the biggest issue. I learned this last season and have much better seasoned wood this year. I am getting next winter's wood now.

We have been very happy with our Oslo.

GE

Thanks! Yeah, I don't think I'd want the light show yet. Not on a 55 degree night. Good catch on the air space between splits. Need to be better with that I am just having fun trying different methods to get the break in burns started. Hoping to be more seasoned myself come cold days when I want this thing to get up to temp instead of just look nice and sound nice.

 

[ontherise]

Duh... One of those long weekends with work tasks keeping me up most nights after kids are asleep (who have been running crazy). You can just replace thermostat with thermometer in all my replies above.... Just hit me as I started on another project. I guess thinking about heat got me thinking about thermostats.

 

[ontherise]

I followed the manual and bought a stove top thermostat. Still after 2.5 hours it is reading 350.. Unless you get to within a few feet of the stove, you wouldn't feel it on yet. I just lowered the air control valve in the front to half from full. I know the manual says that is supposed to be at full right to increase heat but I wonder if the tallish straight chimney is making it burn out faster anyway. Added a larger "real" split also. Hoping to really get it to that 400-500 range for this third break in fire to let the Enamel off gas while I can keep the windows open (probably 55 out right now up here) and have it ready to use for those mornings when sweatshirts just don't cut it (going to do my best to be militant about the oil heat being used for "make up" and hot water only

That larger split (approaching a real split) did the trick.. Stove shot up from a constant 340 to about 470 pretty quickly... Just lowered air control valve.. Feeling heat now..Even on a mild night with the windows all open I am really enjoying this. What a great way to heat. Do more work for it yourself, something the family can hang around at (My 5 year old daughter has enjoyed helping me start each fire so far) Really looking forward to this cold New England winter! Thanks for comments/tips. See you all around in the forums, I bet.

 

[BrotherBart]

Welcome to the wood heat fraternity. You are now officially hooked. And will be completely hooked when it gets cold.

 

[begreen]

If the next fire is with a load of decent size, don't be surprised when you close the air down if the temp continues to rise for a bit. It may hit 600-650. Not a big deal, but you will start to get the idea of the heat that this stove can put out.

When closing down the air, try to close it down to just when the flames start to get lazy. Then wait for a few minutes for the light show to begin from the secondaries. You'll be enjoying that show every night come winter.

 

[Shari]

Awesome video of the secondaries! You're making me homesick for a fire.......

Shari

 

[begreen]

Coming soon to a stove near you!

 

[Green Energy]

Then wait for a few minutes for the light show to begin from the secondaries. You'll be enjoying that show every night come winter.

Mesmerizing, even on U-tube!

 

[Shari]

You know, that would make an awesome screen saver....

Shari

 

[ontherise]

Looking forward to it. Actually now that the first three break in burns are done, I am going to be starting one today when I get home and the kids are outside (70 degree day, going to dip to 40s tonight though) and get it up to at least 500 to let the enamel burn off and get that smoke out of the way. I might just throw enough in it to get to watch a secondary show. Sure I don't need it. Sure it was work splitting that wood I'll use but I'll call it "training time" and explain to my wife that this is all an effort to be able to light a better fire in the cold months.

Used to be a volunteer firefighter until recently when we started having kids and I wanted to spend more time at home than always working or always on a fire/ambulance call. The secondary burns all look like a flashover simulator almost. Or that really roaring structure fire or training burn in an old house that we "accidentally" would let go a little far. Looking forward to watching more. Wow, that makes me sound like a pyromaniac but I think most of you understand. The only ones I enjoy lighting are a training fire, a campfire and, now, the Jotul.

 

[firefighterjake]

Random thoughts . . .

This time of year lighting a fire can sometimes be a challenge when the outside temp is cool, but not really cold . . . it can especially be challenging if the temp inside and outside are fairly close in temps. I find that even with a good draft it helps to open a nearby window slightly to help establish a better draft . . . and you probably know it is useful to keep the air control open all the way to the right and leave the side door ajar for a bit until you get things going.

Don't sweat the temps . . . a few degrees like you saw is nothing . . .

1 1/2 hours is quite a while to bring things up to temp . . . like BB it takes me 45 minutes or so . . . less on a reload in middle of winter . . . then again you will no doubt get better at this as the heating season progresses . . . and by the season's end will be getting the fire going in record time.

As you have probably noticed . . . keeping the air control lever all the way to the right is good at getting the fire going, but once you've brought the stove up to temp you want to start closing off the air so you will a) keep more of the heat in the stove vs. going up the chimney and b) achieve secondary combustion which is where you'll really notice the heat. Leaving the air control all the way open is rather inefficient and you have a faster burn with less heat in the home.

Yes . . . secondary combustion does look a lot like a flashover . . . then again . . . that's what it is . . . the temp in the firebox has reached that temp at which everything combustible bursts into flame . . . much like the temp in a structure fire reaching that temp at which everything combustible bursts into flame (including the smoke).

Thermostat is really a thermometer . . . you caught that mistake I noticed . . . good to have one on the stove, better to have one on or in the flue (if double wall pipe). I find myself using the flue thermometer to monitor and run the stove more than I do the stove top thermometer.

Soot is normal . . . even some browning . . . even if you have good, seasoned wood with the first few break in fires . . . these fires are pretty "cool" and you will get this . . . first good, hot fire will burn this off or you can use damp newspaper. Even in the course of the year you will get some sooting from fly ash . . . again, the damp newspaper works well.

Heat . . . I think you'll like the Oslo . . . it's a work horse.

 

[ontherise]

Thanks for the thoughts. You on the job up in Bangor? (can't make out the department on the engine). I kind of figured the action in the secondary burn is the flashover. The Smoke, off gasses, etc. all burning. Nice in a wood stove, bad in a building fire since bunker gear is included in that "everything combustible" you talk about. Just kind of reminded me of the flashover simulator and lessons about them with the subtraction of the bank of smoke hiding the flames from view in a real pre-flashover.

Good point about the air control. Found last night when playing that when lowering the valuve to about 1/2 the temperature really dropped off but the fire was getting down to larger red coals at that point also. Definitely excited about the functionality of it. If I could more or less get it going that well in this weather, it should be nice on the colder days. We'll probably have some struggles starting that "burn the enamel smell" off burn tonight with the warmer day time temps but all doors can stay open at least.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks for the thoughts. You on the job up in Bangor? (can't make out the department on the engine). I kind of figured the action in the secondary burn is the flashover. The Smoke, off gasses, etc. all burning. Nice in a wood stove, bad in a building fire since bunker gear is included in that "everything combustible" you talk about. Just kind of reminded me of the flashover simulator and lessons about them with the subtraction of the bank of smoke hiding the flames from view in a real pre-flashover.

Good point about the air control. Found last night when playing that when lowering the valuve to about 1/2 the temperature really dropped off but the fire was getting down to larger red coals at that point also. Definitely excited about the functionality of it. If I could more or less get it going that well in this weather, it should be nice on the colder days. We'll probably have some struggles starting that "burn the enamel smell" off burn tonight with the warmer day time temps but all doors can stay open at least.

Work full time in Bangor as the Public Education Officer . . . volunteer with the Unity FD.

Try cutting back the air control before you get to the coaling stage . . . well before that stage . . . slowly cut it back to the 3/4 mark and then wait 5 minutes . . . if you get some secondary action and it is sustained cut it back to the 1/2 mark and wait again for 5 minutes . . . if you get sustained secondary and the fire doesn't suffocate try dialing it back the 1/4 mark . . . most folks seem to be able to get it to this point . . . long burn, good secondary action . . . life is good.

 

[ontherise]

A few more observations from tonight's "real" burn...

1.) Got to 350 much faster than previous days. I started out with more fuel and used the side door instead of the front door as my "cracked door" to help. Also had plenty of windows open (was hoping to really burn off the enamel and get that 5-8 minutes of smoke the stove shop warned me about over with).

2.) Getting to 400-450 took a bit longer. I had to keep the air control fully open, though. Anytime I lowered it, even just 1/4 of the way, the temp would drop out a bit.

3.) To get to 500 I pretty much had to let my 400 logs burn down and then reloaded a much larger split and a couple smaller dryer pieces (including a piece of scrap KD 2x6). Shot up to 550 quickly.

4.) Timing of lowering to induce the secondary still tricky. Once the temp on the stove surface hit 550, I lowered to 3/4 mark. Waited 5 minutes. Fire wasn't suffocating but secondary was just sporadic and in small pockets, but not really in the air tubes at the top. Tried going lower and didn't really get anywhere with increasing secondary until around 1/4 fire started suffocating. I guess I'll have to work on timing to induce secondary burn more. As I type this, the air control is at 3/4, most of the wood I've put in is now coaled over and the temp has gone down to 450 on the surface in the past 3/4 hour. The larger split from earlier is the only piece that still resembles its former self. Some flames and white ash covering it. Not sure what this was (no bark) but from how dry and hollow it was, I am guessing it was some of the ash.

5.) Smoke is definitely clearing from glass at least now that the fire got hotter.

6.) Can definitely "hear" the draft or flames at the back of the stove. Either at the top of the fireplace flue where it meets the chimney or underneath/inside of that. Not sure if it is normal but today is definitely windy and where we live is a wind magnet and the top of this straight chimney is well above any trees/etc. Wondering if I should consider a damper? The fires burn down fast and don't seem to like being lowered by air control valve. I am presuming it is pretty normal to essentially see a "hole" being "drilled" by the air from the air control valve? After short time that air really forces itself onto the coals in its path and leaves a dry path of nothing (no ash, no coals) straight through. Makes sense with the oxygen source, just didn't know if it is normally so pronounced an effect or if it is due to too much draft.

(I realize it is early yet, just hoping to work out kinks before we rely on it.. The downstairs of our house warmed up by about 3 degrees (as measured on thermostat for oil system a few rooms away.) could feel the heat upstairs also.

It's still relatively early and it is going to be a cooler night tonight (first night in the lower 40s) so if any thoughts come out (not to each point, just noting my findings so far), I may just throw another split in there once the one in there finishes its descent (or open the side door and try and get it back to temp)

 

[grommal]

To me, it just doesn't sound like your wood is truly dry. With my Oslo, once you hit 400F on the top, the secondaries are fully going and you can dial the air all the way back, and the temperature will continue to climb to 600 with a full load of wood, and give nice secondaries for hours and stovetop above 400 for at least 6 hours. Now, that behavior was with at least somewhat colder weather outside, as I didn't burn it with the outside temps above 45 yet.

 

[ontherise]

I will be getting that 2 year old cord from the neighbor soon enough and will give that a try and see. The wood I put in seemed to have no problem going, especially in the already hot stove. Didn't see the wood really steaming much and certainly didn't see or hear any steaming/boiling that I've seen on outside fires with definitely unseasoned wood. I'll give it a shot. On reading further, I think that air rushing noise I am hearing is probably the air intake underneath, do you normally hear yours when it is going? Seems to really quiet down with the air control lever to the complete left but up until then you can hear it rushing in.

I was at least able to maintain 500/550 for a bit last night and got a lot of the enamel offgas smell. Hoping that has us good until the real cold starts, though I might try a couple more fires if we get colder days/nights between now and Nov to try and get a better hang of this.

 

[oldspark]

With the smaller fires I dont have much secondaries either and it takes longer to get the stove up to temp and I have some three year old wood that is at 15% or so.