Fisher papa bear fire brick layout

[JoeBenjamin]

Just purchased what I believe to be a papa bear,
I downloaded the manual, looking to add the second layer of fire brick…
The support angles do not match any of the layouts in the manual….

I was expecting to put 3 vertical on each side and one horizontal on each side…. But the brackets as shown are all that is in there


-yes I am also aware it is caked with creosote,
I am cleaning g it now before firing

 

[coaly]

Will one horizontal brick fit between the retainers? The upper row was optional and was added to increase firebox temperature. They are not needed to protect the sides.

It’s better to put them horizontal and add a baffle. If you are adding a baffle, make a cardboard template, and draw a line on the bricks on the angle you want the baffle plate to sit on. Horizontal bricks can support the baffle without cutting.

 

[JoeBenjamin]

Will one horizontal brick fit between the retainers? The upper row was optional and was added to increase firebox temperature. They are not needed to protect the sides.

It’s better to put them horizontal and add a baffle. If you are adding a baffle, make a cardboard template, and draw a line on the bricks on the angle you want the baffle plate to sit on. Horizontal bricks can support the baffle without cutting.

Yes, one standard firebrick will lay horizontal. In fact thats how I had it before the photo, It does leave about a 1/4 in gap between the first row of brick since the second row ends up resting on the bracket a little, unless I trim it. I had hoped to put the second row in per the manual lay out, but unless I weld some new brackets in there (I don't weld so a tough job) I don't think I can get much more than the two horizonal bricks or 4 vertical as pictured. I do want to add a baffle though. I am heating a LARGE shop, so max heat output is really what I am going for.

I ultimately would like to do a few modifications to this stove,
1. a baffle, however need to get the bricks laid out properly so that I can get the dimensions right, what should size should I have the metal shop cut for me? and thickness?

2. Secondary combustion air, I saw on this forum Mark Cline did one and it looks great, I however need to learn to weld..

3. WAY down the road, i'd like to give burning coal in this thing a try, Lots of modification ideas....but that's a whole different thread my concern right now is how to get it running as advertised from the factory.

~ Last but not least, I am sure there is some artistry to it, but when firing the Fisher, whats the best way to manage the air intake knobs and damper ( I added a flue damper aftermarket in my stove pipe) to get this thing to burn optimally.

Thanks again!

 

[coaly]

The baffle size depends on chimney diameter. The area the exhaust travels through cannot be smaller than the square inch area of chimney flue.

There is no welding necessary to add secondary air. Black iron pipe can be used, and if you run the intake pipe up through outlet, no stove cutting, drilling, or modification is needed.

Forget burning coal in any wood stove. Coal requires ALL air to come up through it, burning on a grate with air coming in under the fire through ash pan. A coal stove is purpose built for that fuel, and modified or combination stoves work well on one or the other fuel. Get a coal stove for coal and use a barometric damper with a coal stove, never with a wood stove.