Fiskars SS and Red Oak a match made in heaven but with a learning curve OUCH!

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WoodpileOCD

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2011
722
Central NC
It was 40* and a bit rainy today in NC but I HAD to try out my new Fiskars Super Splitter. I have a pile of red oak I've been working on and I've gotta say that this tool is the cats meow. I've been using a big ol standard maul for years and years and I was able to split more today in less time than I ever dreamed possible. However, there is a learning curve with this guy and it's short handle and I have the marks to prove it.

I did learn that I need to think each time about putting the wood on the far side of the chopping block or striking on the far side of the round. Goes against everything I have done for bunches of years as the handle hits very hard quite often when the head goes all the way through. Indestructible handle though and I guess I need to let the handle take the abuse.

Here is a picture of what happens when you strike the front and the head doesn't bury in the block.



OOPS!
 

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Wow That could have been a really bad one Glad all your toes are still intact and all is ok!
 
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...
 
Now, a dull axe or maul could have saved the boot. My boots have the heavy rubber toe guards.

Years ago on the trapline, I had some friends out to visit and we went ice fishing. I was in the cabin starting a fire, my friend was out punching holes in the ice, and his wife was chopping wood. Suddenly she storms into the cabin, hobbling in circles and screaming that she cut her foot with the axe. I finally get her to sit down so that I could tend to her injury but I couldn't tell which foot was hurt. She's still screaming in utter panic, saying that she doesn't dare look, that she can feel her boot filling with blood. I finally get her to shut up long enough to ask her which foot. Must have been a dull axe cuz there was not a mark on the boot and not even a bruise on her foot. She felt silly about how badly she had panicked.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...

I'm not too familiar with other types of splitting axes as I have always used a maul which by nature is pretty dull, at least my always have been. I know there are other splitting "axes" out there, anyone have any close calls with them?

I really like the thing as I got at least twice the work done today as I would have with my maul. Still used it some for a few stubborn ones as well as a wedge a few times. I might invest in a pair of shin guards however. This cut happened fairly early on and as I got better acquainted with it, and consciously placed or hit on the back side I had no more issues. Like I said though, there is a learning curve on it.
 
WoodpileOCD, I grew up splitting with both a single and double bitted axe. I never saw a splitting maul until I was in my 30's! I had never even heard of one until then. Now I have graduated to the hydraulics and happy for it.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...

You're not the only one,Dennis. I've used several different weight mauls,but mainly 1 of my Sotz 15lb Monster Mauls & 3 or 5 lb Plumb axes over the yrs.But I've yet to cut either my boot,foot or leg when using any of them.Didnt start wearing steel-toed boots until my construction employer & OSHA made it mandatory about 15yrs ago.Wouldnt do any work without them now however.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...
I don't think there's much chance of you hitting yourself in the foot or shin when splitting sitting on a milk crate.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
WoodpileOCD, I grew up splitting with both a single and double bitted axe. I never saw a splitting maul until I was in my 30's! I had never even heard of one until then. Now I have graduated to the hydraulics and happy for it.

I've never split with an axe except for kindling. Had it drilled into me early on in my childhood that axes were to be kept razor sharp and were used for chopping, NOT splitting. I'm within months of 60 and can honestly say I enjoy the physical labor so I split what I can and save all the tough wood for a hydraulic. Line up a helper and believe me I get my 50 bucks worth out of a rental. It is a real pleasure using one a couple times a year though I must admit.
 
IMO, using the Fiskars SS with the round elevated on a block is sorely tempting fate. It only takes one semi-careless swing to have the sharp edge come flying toward your foot or ankle.

Leaving the round on the ground though, seems to take away all the risk, at least for me. I wonder if this is what the Fiskar engineers thought everyone would be doing, when they designed the handle so short.
 
A taller chopping block will help. Block plus round to be split should be about waist high total when set up to split. This allows the cutting surface of the axe head to contact the round at about it's full width rather than closer to the top corner, but you loose a little distance and inertia with a shorter distance to swing. I also used to set up on slightly uneven ground but with the chopping block level. Small easy rounds I would stand on the uphill side, bigger rounds on the downhill side. it's an easy way to find the sweet spot for varying lengths or sizes of rounds to be split.
When I split I would also swing straight overhead, not over the shoulder, with feet apart a little. When I missed the maul would hit the block or pass between my feet. For me it was easier to hit my mark better because the maul would travel in a straght line throughtout the entire swing. Never played golf but it must be a similiar approach I would think.
My old block was an oak stump about 30" high and 26" in diameter. Must have weighed well over 140lbs and I had to roll it on it's side to move it. Had lots of area to catch any missed swings and the large base prevented energy from the swing to be absorbed by the ground.
I think most would be surprised at the difference the correct chopping block can make.

I went hydraulic 4 yrs ago. I had the strength and accuracy to split with the maul but it beat the heck out of my elbows and soulders.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...

I think its because that ax only has a 28" long handle...too short for me personally, puts that ax head a little too close to the body, less leverage, etc.

EDIT: I just saw that they now have a model with a 36" handle (X27), now that sounds a LOT more interesting as I'm 6' 2". I just cracked the head on my current maul so I think I'll try to find one of these 36" models.
 


We usually just use a 5 lb axe to split red oak once the blocks are froze. i make kindling with an axe but the bulk of the spliting is done with a hydraulic (borrowed....lol) but i make a solid weekend of the spliting elm is hard on the shoulders........
 
Woodpile, referring to the pictures in your first message.... do you tie up every round like that? I would think that would be a lot of trouble. The theory is good, of course-- keeps the splits from falling or flying away and constantly having to pick them up. But taking the time to tie up each single round seems really time consuming. If I were going to tie them up, or use bungee cords, or a combination, I would tie up several rounds at one time.

Personally, I split most everything in an old automobile tire. Whether it's one big fat round or several smaller ones.
 
Kenster said:
Personally, I split most everything in an old automobile tire. Whether it's one big fat round or several smaller ones.

Same here.Been using a couple old tires of different sizes for years.Sure better than chasing down the easy splits that would fly 10-15 ft sometimes.Much less wear on your back & knees also since you're not having to walk around & pick the damn things up..As I get older,I appreciate anything to make life easier.Did have a Speeco 20ton H/V with 8HP Tecumseh from Apr 96 to Dec 2005 though,had to sell it when work was slow for a couple months or so.Someday I'll probably get another hydraulic,so far my body's holding up well.
 
Oak splits if you look at it hard . . . But th OP is splitting so small, someone should tell her that Oak don't make the best kindling :lol:
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
But th OP is splitting so small...
Ja, you'd think it's for a cookstove, not a Buck 91?
 
LLigetfa said:
Backwoods Savage said:
Perhaps I'm the only one on this forum but I have yet to see posts describing this sort of thing unless one is using the Fiskars axe. Makes one think a bit...
I don't think there's much chance of you hitting yourself in the foot or shin when splitting sitting on a milk crate.

No offense Backwoods, but that was funny.
 
There is no doubt,this is a tool that NEEDS to be respected. It works very well and is not what
you want to hand a 12 year old to go bust a few pieces of firewood. If you're the type of person
who likes to have a few beers and wear sandals while cutting up some wood on nice days;this is
not the tool that should be used. There is very real risk of danger that comes from improper use
of this tool. Every swing;and that means EVERY SWING needs to be thought of. If you feel like you're
"Just about ready to call it a day." then stop at that point and don't try to finish a few more rounds
when fatigued. If you tap the main artery in your leg with the SS you're going to be in a VERY dire
situation. Steel toed work boots are a must when using this tool.

However, if you are the type who always pays attention and is focused on the task at hand,then the
Fiskars SS is the next best thing to a hydraulic splitter.
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
Oak splits if you look at it hard . . . But th OP is splitting so small, someone should tell her that Oak don't make the best kindling :lol:

Do you have all big splits or do you like to have different sizes? When I get a nice straight piece of red oak, or any wood that splits as easy as this, like the one you see in the picture, I like to make a bunch of smaller pieces and mix them in with the stack. I find it's a lot easier than trying to get a few small ones from many different rounds. Makes sense to me but I'll pass the advice on to her (my wife) that oak doesn't make the best kindling.


Kenster, I tried the bungee thing and I find the rope works a lot better because it doesn't stretch. I have a loop in one end so I put the rope through the loop and make a quick lasso and cinch it down, go around one more time and put it through the loop again. Takes about 15 seconds. I don't do all of them that way just as described above. I have a tire set up on my chopping block at home but this is more of a 'mobile' application that works great.
 
I used to help a tree man many years ago. He kept his axes razor sharp, literally. He told a story of one day splitting wood & having it glance off laying open his boot & panicking at all the red he saw....untill he remembered he was wearing red socks,lol, Randy
 
WoodpileOCD said:
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
Oak splits if you look at it hard . . . But th OP is splitting so small, someone should tell her that Oak don't make the best kindling :lol:

Do you have all big splits or do you like to have different sizes? When I get a nice straight piece of red oak, or any wood that splits as easy as this, like the one you see in the picture, I like to make a bunch of smaller pieces and mix them in with the stack. I find it's a lot easier than trying to get a few small ones from many different rounds. Makes sense to me but I'll pass the advice on to her (my wife) that oak doesn't make the best kindling.

He runs an outdoor boiler & throws in big stuff.

Splitting the easy stuff smaller makes sense to me too. Especially Oak as it helps it to season faster (or less slow I should say).

I had my own learing experience with the Fiskars. Learned to always wear gloves and grip it up near the head when pulling it out of a round. I held a small round with my free hand & rocked the handle to get the head out. It popped out suprisingly quick rising several inches in the air, then promptly came down & nicked my hand.
Also need to watch for it bouncing off a stubborn round. Someone on here actually had one bounce back & knock him on the head! Butt end, but still...
 
I split about 1/3 cord of red oak with the Fiskars this morning and it felt much better. I took my time and was more thoughtful and careful as to where I was hitting. As I mentioned before, hitting on the far side of the round makes it much safer. I was also splitting pieces on the ground rather than on a block. All in all it felt much better today. I also started looking into the x25 with the longer handle. Called an ACE hardware store in the area as that is where Fiskars refers you and they couldn't even order it. Anyone got their hands on one yet or know how to order one. I want to try one out an if it feels better, I'll just sell the shorter one.
 
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