Flames burn time

[10-cc]

I have experimented on how long do I get real flames burn time because we need the radiation factor in here. I was disappointed after I realize that the maximum achieved was 2 hours on my T6.
I know it depend on various factors, here are some of the facts:

Before timing the flames burn time, I heated up the stove to 600* (top)
Added a full load on top of the burning coals
Let it crank for 15 minutes top temperature to 700*
Close completely air supply and made sure secondaries are ON
Time for the flames to die: roughly 2 hours
Note the after the 2 hours there were big chunk of glowing wood/coals
Also note that I used strictly dry wood, mainly sugar maple, cut and splited winter 2010
In order to get back the flames I had to open up air supply

Did some of you had experimented the same? Is it normal to get secondaries for such a short time?

 

[joecool85]

Sounds normal to me, but I don't own a T6.

 

[begreen]

I get secondaries for 2-3 hrs depending on the wood, maybe longer. However, the secondary flames don't directly correlate with radiant heat. Your stove top should remain above 600F for many hours afterward with a full load of wood.

It sounds like you may be burning down the fresh wood gases too soon, with too hot a reload. If the stove is already warmed up, on a reload I often give it just a few minutes for the wood to get fully involved in flame, then start incrementally decreasing the air. Usually this is just in 2 steps. Half closed, then all the way closed with about 5 minutes in between. But that is burning doug fir. With locust I need to do this with more time in between. The stovetop often will stay at 650F for many hours this way.

Are you noticing a big difference between the T6 and the Summit burning? Also wondering why the Alderlea if radiation is a big factor? This is a convective stove.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I have experimented on how long do I get real flames burn time because we need the radiation factor in here. I was disappointed after I realize that the maximum achieved was 2 hours on my T6.
I know it depend on various factors, here are some of the facts:

Before timing the flames burn time, I heated up the stove to 600* (top)
Added a full load on top of the burning coals
Let it crank for 15 minutes top temperature to 700*
Close completely air supply and made sure secondaries are ON
Time for the flames to die: roughly 2 hours
Note the after the 2 hours there were big chunk of glowing wood/coals
Also note that I used strictly dry wood, mainly sugar maple, cut and splited winter 2010
In order to get back the flames I had to open up air supply

Did some of you had experimented the same? Is it normal to get secondaries for such a short time?

Secondaries on the Heritage last 2-4 hours depending upon the load with a burn time of usable heat is 4-7 hours depending upon load and time of year. The secondaries will die out and kick back on randomly after a certain period of time.

No secondaries on the Cat Encore. Coaling on the Encore does not take place for at least 4 hours. Total burn time of usable heat is 6-9+ hours depending upon load and time of year (still learning the stove at this point).

Not applicable on the Vigilant due to no secondaries, catalyst, or glass viewing. Total burn time of usable heat is 4-7 hours depending upon load and time of year.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have experimented on how long do I get real flames burn time because we need the radiation factor in here. I was disappointed after I realize that the maximum achieved was 2 hours on my T6.
I know it depend on various factors, here are some of the facts:

Before timing the flames burn time, I heated up the stove to 600* (top)
Added a full load on top of the burning coals
Let it crank for 15 minutes top temperature to 700*
Close completely air supply and made sure secondaries are ON
Time for the flames to die: roughly 2 hours
Note the after the 2 hours there were big chunk of glowing wood/coals
Also note that I used strictly dry wood, mainly sugar maple, cut and splited winter 2010
In order to get back the flames I had to open up air supply

Did some of you had experimented the same? Is it normal to get secondaries for such a short time?

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

 

[10-cc]

I get secondaries for 2-3 hrs depending on the wood, maybe longer. However, the secondary flames don't directly correlate with radiant heat. Your stove top should remain above 600F for many hours afterward with a full load of wood.

It sounds like you may be burning down the fresh wood gases too soon, with too hot a reload. If the stove is already warmed up, on a reload I often give it just a few minutes for the wood to get fully involved in flame, then start incrementally decreasing the air. Usually this is just in 2 steps. Half closed, then all the way closed with about 5 minutes in between. But that is burning doug fir. With locust I need to do this with more time in between. The stovetop often will stay at 650F for many hours this way.

Are you noticing a big difference between the T6 and the Summit burning? Also wondering why the Alderlea if radiation is a big factor? This is a convective stove.

Yes 600F for few more hours, but if I leave the air supply closed for say all night burn, in the morning I have a huge pile of coal which eventually need to be burned. This is a real problem with this kind of stoves compare to the Jotul, VC with the dust trey inside the stove. So I need to get up after few hours and open up air supply all the way so in the morning I still get quite a bit of coals to be able to restat a fire witout lighting up and top temps are around 250F.
As for the Summit, it acts very similarly to the T6.

I notice that with hard wood especially big chunks like 6" or so I need high top temps to get the secondaries going.

Thanks.

 

[10-cc]

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

OK, but what about it 600F and the fire box is empty?

 

[BrowningBAR]

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

OK, but what about it 600F and the fire box is empty?

I'll file this under 'magic'.

 

[10-cc]

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

OK, but what about it 600F and the fire box is empty?

I'll file this under 'magic'.

Well kind of empty, it is all relatve, I mean a good hot bed of coals and plenty room for reload. As BG say "the T6 has a big bely"

 

[BrowningBAR]

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

OK, but what about it 600F and the fire box is empty?

I'll file this under 'magic'.

Well kind of empty, it is all relatve, I mean a good hot bed of coals and plenty room for reload. As BG say "the T6 has a big bely"

Usually excessive coaling is due to wood not being as dry as it could be.

 

[oldspark]

You may be doing okay for what you want but I would never consider loading up a stove when it is already at 600 degrees!

OK, but what about it 600F and the fire box is empty?

I'll file this under 'magic'.

Well kind of empty, it is all relatve, I mean a good hot bed of coals and plenty room for reload. As BG say "the T6 has a big bely"

Usually excessive coaling is due to wood not being as dry as it could be.

Or using a dense wood like Oak that holds its coals for a long time.

 

[10-cc]

Usually excessive coaling is due to wood not being as dry as it could be.

I can assure you that this is not the case, nor poor draft! I have some 5 years old dry wood (maple) and it coal like crazy if I do not open her up after the secondaries died. Also I experimented with Bio Brick or whatever it is called, it does the same. The only thing can probably work, is soft wood and small splits.

 

[BrotherBart]

It is no crime to leave the primary air open a little to get a good long even burn.

 

[Todd]

Usually excessive coaling is due to wood not being as dry as it could be.

I can assure you that this is not the case, nor poor draft! I have some 5 years old dry wood (maple) and it coal like crazy if I do not open her up after the secondaries died. Also I experimented with Bio Brick or whatever it is called, it does the same. The only thing can probably work, is soft wood and small splits.

Check your EBT. Some have found it better to disable it to burn better.

 

[10-cc]

Usually excessive coaling is due to wood not being as dry as it could be.

I can assure you that this is not the case, nor poor draft! I have some 5 years old dry wood (maple) and it coal like crazy if I do not open her up after the secondaries died. Also I experimented with Bio Brick or whatever it is called, it does the same. The only thing can probably work, is soft wood and small splits.

Check your EBT. Some have found it better to disable it to burn better.

I've been checking EBT operation over and over and I have never ever found it open or even a crack open, it is allway in a cose position.

Thnx

 

[certified106]

As others stated I would not even consider putting a full load of wood into my stove if it was 600°F already.
I usually will reload on a pretty decent coal bed and stove top temp somewhere in the 250-350°F range. My wood usually flames up immediately at which point I begin dialing the air back with the whole process taking 15-20mins to have the stove shut down. After that I have never really timed the actual flame time of the secondaries but it is quite a while. When I follow those steps I wake up to a decent bed of coals and usually around a 300°F stove top with the blower still kicking in and off 9-10 hours later. I have not been experiencing big chunks of unburnt wood and I wonder if it is just the nature of the maple you are burning?

 

[oldspark]

Many posts on here about excessive coaling using dense woods, will sugar maple do this (never burnt any).

 

[wkpoor]

Many posts on here about excessive coaling using dense woods, will sugar maple do this (never burnt any).

Last year that was my first EPA stove complaint. I got the standard wet wood reply. Only problem was I was burning kiln dried hardwood lumber scraps. There are so many people posting on this it has to be somewhat of an issue.
I realize its changing our burning habits but some people either because of their schedule or their needs don't have time to baby sit their stove all day. I reload when its convenient for me, not the stove. If its 600 and I'm leaving for work I load er up. I guess if your retired you can just wait till all the coals burn down and then load back up. Not everybody has those luxuries.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Many posts on here about excessive coaling using dense woods, will sugar maple do this (never burnt any).

Last year that was my first EPA stove complaint. I got the standard wet wood reply. Only problem was I was burning kiln dried hardwood lumber scraps. There are so many people posting on this it has to be somewhat of an issue.
I realize its changing our burning habits but some people either because of their schedule or their needs don't have time to baby sit their stove all day. I reload when its convenient for me, not the stove. If its 600 and I'm leaving for work I load er up. I guess if your retired you can just wait till all the coals burn down and then load back up. Not everybody has those luxuries.

Because many, many times wet wood is usually the reason. And I said "usually", not definitely, not always.

 

[wkpoor]

Well it does seem to me that burning an EPA stove successfully has alot to do with managing coals and I like that. Thats why when I got up this morning I had a healthy bed of hot coals to resume with. But as with everything there needs to a balance between coals piling up and room for more wood. I'm sure that balance point is different for everyone.

 

[tsc003]

How warm was your home? That's all that matters! ;-)

 

[HotCoals]

Man..glad i went cat with a big box.
I heat 24/7 though with the stove..so it was worth the cost to me.

 

[wkpoor]

Man..glad i went cat with a big box.
I heat 24/7 though with the stove..so it was worth the cost to me.

You might have a cat but you are far from the biggest box.

 

[oldspark]

Many posts on here about excessive coaling using dense woods, will sugar maple do this (never burnt any).

Last year that was my first EPA stove complaint. I got the standard wet wood reply. Only problem was I was burning kiln dried hardwood lumber scraps. There are so many people posting on this it has to be somewhat of an issue.
I realize its changing our burning habits but some people either because of their schedule or their needs don't have time to baby sit their stove all day. I reload when its convenient for me, not the stove. If its 600 and I'm leaving for work I load er up. I guess if your retired you can just wait till all the coals burn down and then load back up. Not everybody has those luxuries.

Because many, many times wet wood is usually the reason. And I said "usually", not definitely, not always.

I said or.

 

[Daren Bracey]

I have found that in my short time of wood burning, that when I get up in the am I have a good pile of oak coals in the Buck 81,and about 250 degrees afterabout 8 hours. I rake them to the front of the stove, open the primary, start my coffee, and morning routine, then through in a few splits to keep the chill off as the temps rise outside for the day. Love the Wood heat.