Flex Liner Standoffs ??

[Nicholas]

Looking at putting a S.S. Flex liner in an INTERIOR masonry chimney.
The portion of the chimney that is running through 2 levels I want to transfer heat, so the liner would be un-insulated.
Do they make "stand offs" to keep the liner centered in a masonry chase ?

Thanks,
Nick

 

[BrotherBart]

I know that they have them for Simpson Dura Liner. I don't know about for others. The ones from Simpson should work with any single ply liner.

 

[cmonSTART]

I understand your plan, but remember: Heat loss from a chimney = more creosote.

 

[Nicholas]

Masonry Heater, no creosote

Nick

I understand your plan, but remember: Heat loss from a chimney = more creosote.

 

[BrotherBart]

Given the firing procedures for masonry heaters I darn sure wouldn't be using a single ply flex liner. They are only rated for 1,000F continuous. Firing the crap out of a load of wood of the small split size that is optimum for a masonry heater is gonna have flue temps a good bit hotter than 1,000F.

 

[cmonSTART]

Masonry heaters are just amazing. I saw my first one this past fall and was thoroughly impressed with the heat output, or rather, how long it put out heat.

BB has a point. Make sure it has the proper venting.

 

[Nicholas]

Bart,
So flex liners are not 103-HT rated as a duratech chimney? I am new to anything but clay tile.

I have just spent the last month being lectured on multiple forums about how S.S. liners where the ONLY way to go with wood heat and to use clay liners is as dumb as wiping your a$$ with a pine cone
And now they are not up to the 103-HT standard?? And they won't withstand the use of a wood fired appliance ?

Now I am confused ?? A wood stone would be a lot harder on a flue than a Masonry Heater.
Is one flex liner better than another?
Like I said, I am new to the whole S.S. thing.

Nick

 

[BrotherBart]

The question involves "continuous" temps of the flue gases. I just raised the question because a wood stove's flue temp while going over 1,000F does it only for a short time at reload and settles back under six hundred or so for continuous burning. Whereas, as I understand it, you fire the crap out of a masonry heater for long enough to get the mass heated. Which could take hours.

I don't know the answer, the question just floated through my mind when I read your post.

 

[cmonSTART]

Some brands of flex are better than others, definitely.

Actually, now that I think of it, how exactly does the flue temp of a masonry heater compare to a wood stove. They work by residence time, meaning the length of time the flue gases are in the heater is increased so much that much of their heat is transferred to the appliance. Logically, wouldn't the flue gases then be a bit cooler. I have very little experience with them. I might have to go dig out some books.

 

[Nicholas]

In a masonry heater, you load approx 50lb wood light it, and close the door, the load of wood burns approx 2 hours. you never ever reload the burn.
The flue gasses leave the heater core at 400-500 deg. A very clean exhaust.
If you also have a heated bench (horizonal chimney), that robs more heat from the flue gasses.

Any how, anyone have a link the the flex liner spacers?

Nick

 

[BrotherBart]

Here ya go.

http://www.ventingpipe.com/simpson-dura-vent-6dfs-s-6-inch-duraflex-spacer/p1023252

 

[theheatelement]

I am lost Brother Bart because simpson uses single ply .005 or .006 and their's is tested to 2100... A liner is their to protect in an event of an overfire... if a liner has been over fired then it may or may not be good... it needs to be cleaned and tested to see if it will hold up.. The good thing is, the liner saved the home which is what it was installed for.

Given the firing procedures for masonry heaters I darn sure wouldn't be using a


single ply flex liner. They are only rated for 1,000F continuous. Firing the crap out of a load of wood of the small split size that is optimum for a masonry heater is gonna have flue temps a good bit hotter than 1,000F.

 

[BrotherBart]

Ranier the right way to fire a masonry heater is by definition an overfire for any other wood burning appliance.

 

[begreen]

Is a liner even appropriate for a masonry heater? I'm really not sure what temps would reach the liner after going through the maze of exhaust channels. But I would rely on the masonry stove to capture the heat and not worry about squeezing the last drop out of the flue pipe.