Flue height concern

[48rob]

Hi,

I'm installing a stove in a building with a 3/12 pitch roof.
The total height of the chimney/flue extended to a point 2 feet above the peak of the roof is 10'-9"
The stove I've chosen is the 50-TLV-17, just ordered it yesterday!
The "required" chimney height is 15'
If I must, I can extend the flue another 5', though it sure will look odd being just under 7' above the roof peak.
The flue will exit the roof very near the peak...

From reading the board here, it seems that one of the keys to getting and keeping a good draft is keeping the gasses in the flue as hot as possible, so with that in mind, will using double wall pipe inside the structure from the stove to the ceiling where it connects to the insulated flue be of great benefit? There is 5.68' from the top of the stove to the ceiling (8'4" ceiling height)
Anything else I can do to make the system work better with the shorter flue?

I plan to try it but before starting the installation, I'm interested in what you guys think?
If I had to, I could relocate the stove to another part of the building, so the extremely tall flue would not be so visible...as it is, the flue is very visible from the street out front.
2' Above the peak is reasonable, 3' maybe, but 7' with straps guy wires, etc just may not get it with regard to overall appearance and keeping the neighbors happy.

Rob

 

[zzr7ky]

Hi -

I had an issue like yours. I bolted an adapter to the top plate that caps the masonry flue liner and added a single 3' section of Class A 6" chimney that I got off eBay (slight dent). I also insulated the rigid liner and it works well. No wires, etc... It draws just fine.

All the best,
Mike

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Welcome to the forum Rob. On the chimney height, I think most places state that 13' is the minimum but some stove manufacturers do want a bit more. However, these are still not written in stone. For example, by all theories we should have very poor results with out wood heat....but we get very good results. Our chimney is not 13' high and we also have one elbow (a tee actually) which says we need more than the 13'. On top of that, we are surrounded by lots of high trees and the wind tends to swirl here and it also tends to be a downdraft all around the house. Yet, our stove burns really great and the chimney stays really clean.

Oh yes, in addition, our chimney is a SS which runs up along an outside wall and is not enclosed in a chase. I see there are many folks who live in a much warmer climate than ours and they get recommendations that they have to enclose their chimney in a chase because it cools too fast, blah, blah, blah. So we have no chase, too short of a chimney, over 2' of horizontal flue and surrounded by tall trees. In theory, it doesn't work. In practice, well, we seem to stay nice and warm.

The above just describes our situation but doesn't say yours will work.

 

[48rob]

Thanks for the thoughts!

I'll get it hooked up and give it a try.
We'll work with it from there!

Rob

 

[begreen]

Let us know when you get it installed and running Rob. That stove was introduced here on Hearth.com.

 

[joecool85]

Let us know when you get it installed and running Rob. That stove was introduced here on Hearth.com.

Really? Is there a thread for it? I've searched these forums for info on these little stoves and found very little. Also, when did these come out?

 

[elmoleaf]

By code, your chimney needs to be 3' min. tall where it exits the roof.

 

[Renovation]

Hi Rob,

Newbie here, but I have some ideas, to be verified by experienced members:

1) Are you including your stovepipe height (height from stove outlet to chimney--ceiling in your case) in your flue height? I believe that is usually included in overall chimney height.

2) Double-wall stovepipe is recommended to increase draft.

3. How about an OAK, sucking from low on your house? Don't some say that the height of the OAK adds to draft and overall chimney height?

I hope those thoughts are useful--happy burning!

 

[begreen]

Agreed, use double wall pipe for the connector and go 4 ft above the roof penetration. Try that. If it works well you are all set. Otherwise it is another 3 ft of pipe and a roof brace.

 

[48rob]

Hi Rob,

Newbie here, but I have some ideas, to be verified by experienced members:

1) Are you including your stovepipe height (height from stove outlet to chimney—ceiling in your case) in your flue height? I believe that is usually included in overall chimney height.

2) Double-wall stovepipe is recommended to increase draft.

3. How about an OAK, sucking from low on your house? Don’t some say that the height of the OAK adds to draft and overall chimney height?

Hi George,

Yes, Measuring from the stovetop, to the chimney cap.
Originally I had 12'.
6' of Insulated exterior flue, and 6' of interior double wall stove pipe.
After trying the stove, I added 2 more feet of exterior insulated flue.

The stove drafts well now, in 40 degree temps.

My real concern with the flue height was appearance on the low 3/12 pitch roof.
It ended up taller than I wanted to get a decent draft, but painting it brown to blend in with the roof helped a lot!

Thanks for the tips!

Rob

 

[48rob]

Agreed, use double wall pipe for the connector and go 4 ft above the roof penetration. Try that. If it works well you are all set. Otherwise it is another 3 ft of pipe and a roof brace.

BG,

Here in Illinois at the Menards store, I found the insulated flue pipe in 1', 2' and 3' lengths.

The pricing is enough to get a person riled up though...

$62.00 for a 3' pipe.
$47.00 for a 2' pipe.
And $42.00 for a 1' pipe!

I was going to try a 1' pipe, but decided I couldn't afford to continue experimenting if it was still too short...so I bought the 2' pipe.

Rob

 

[Sir_Lancelot]

Hi -

I had an issue like yours. I bolted an adapter to the top plate that caps the masonry flue liner and added a single 3' section of Class A 6" chimney that I got off eBay (slight dent). I also insulated the rigid liner and it works well. No wires, etc... It draws just fine.

All the best,
Mike

Hi,

I would like to do something similar with my setup. What type of adapter did you use to connect the liner to the Class A...a stove pipe adapter?? Also, how did you insulated your liner and is there any chance that you could post a closeup picture of your chimney top? Thanks.

 

[begreen]

Agreed, use double wall pipe for the connector and go 4 ft above the roof penetration. Try that. If it works well you are all set. Otherwise it is another 3 ft of pipe and a roof brace.

BG,

Here in Illinois at the Menards store, I found the insulated flue pipe in 1', 2' and 3' lengths.

The pricing is enough to get a person riled up though...

$62.00 for a 3' pipe.
$47.00 for a 2' pipe.
And $42.00 for a 1' pipe!

I was going to try a 1' pipe, but decided I couldn't afford to continue experimenting if it was still too short...so I bought the 2' pipe.

Rob

It seems to be working ok from the photos posted. What is the final height? 12'9"? What are your outdoor temps when burning so far?

 

[48rob]

It seems to be working ok from the photos posted. What is the final height? 12’9”? What are your outdoor temps when burning so far?

Final height is 13'-9"

The outdoor temps are in the low 40's.

I added the 2' section because the draft wasn't strong enough to suit me at the roughly 12' I started with.
It should improve as the temperatures drop if I'm reading all the board reports correctly.

Rob

 

[48rob]

It seems to be working ok from the photos posted. What is the final height? 12’9”? What are your outdoor temps when burning so far?

Final height is 13'-9"
(I wasn't measuring correctly before. I was adding togeter sections, etc. this time I got wise and dropped a tape from the top...)

The outdoor temps are in the low 40's.

I added the 2' section because the draft wasn't strong enough to suit me at the roughly 12' I started with.
It should improve as the temperatures drop if I'm reading all the board reports correctly.

Rob

 

[begreen]

Good to know. With a straight up install, I suspect it is going to be fine. It might spill a little smoke when it is in the 50's outside and you open the door, but that will go away as the temps drop.

 

[Stump_Branch]

I presently only have 13' give or take of chimney. its an oustide wall masonry chimney, 12x12 terra cotta flue tiles. I ran a 6" uninsulated stainless the full height with an ADJ elbow to come out of the 45 degree angled rear of my insert. I would agree with Backwoods here, I wouldnt say I have perfect draft...but I have absolutly no issues. with such a low pressure last night I started a fire from cold steel and hummed right along all night. I was worried about the lack of height but I must say I cant be more pleased. if I shut the dampner down right before I open the door I dont even get smoke roll out. It really must depend on everyones situation.

 

[begreen]

I think it depends on the stove design. Some breath easy and some required a hefty draft. The reason I suspect is mostly due to how long and convoluted the primary and secondary air supply is. Corie is sure to know.