Four way slip on wedge

[Duetech]

Has anybody out there tried to put one of these on a splitter?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_28657_28657
If so how did it work? I have a 20 ton Huskee and I want to tweak the output of it and was wondering if there was any experience with one of those wedges with all you wood handlers? Thanks for your input in advance.

 

[BrotherBart]

I don't have one but have thought about them over the years. I just like to think about how I am going to be loading the stove and custom split with that in mind as I go.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I just like to think about how I am going to be loading the stove and custom split with that in mind as I go.

Does it make that much of a difference with that big firebox?

 

[SolarAndWood]

If your wedge is on the ram, this is a local guy here who will custom make something for you. He also does 6-ways but that is probably pushing it with the smaller splitters.

http://www.freewebs.com/logsplitter/

 

[Pagey]

My dad bought one of these last winter, and we love it. Now, keep in mind we're using it on an old, home-made splitter with a fixed blade. The blade is NOT on the cylinder/ram. The blade is welded to the I-beam, and the ram simply has a huge, square block of metal which pushes the split down the I-beam and into the fixed blade. The four way really speeds up our production time, especially when you have a lot of rounds that are the perfect size when quartered. When we come up against a very large round, we slip off the four way and halve it with the single fixed blade.

 

[Duetech]

My dad bought one of these last winter, and we love it. Now, keep in mind we're using it on an old, home-made splitter with a fixed blade. The blade is NOT on the cylinder/ram. The blade is welded to the I-beam, and the ram simply has a huge, square block of metal which pushes the split down the I-beam and into the fixed blade. The four way really speeds up our production time, especially when you have a lot of rounds that are the perfect size when quartered. When we come up against a very large round, we slip off the four way and halve it with the single fixed blade.

What's the tonnage of your splitter?

 

[Pagey]

We've pondered that, and based on the setup we figure it's between 20 and 22 ton.

 

[BrotherBart]

I just like to think about how I am going to be loading the stove and custom split with that in mind as I go.

Does it make that much of a difference with that big firebox?

Sure does. I load N/S so making rectangular "slabs" works best for the long burn.

 

[KeithO]

If you have knarly wood or rounds larger than 12", you may find you are removing it frequently to keep going. I find that having a perfectly level surface on both sides of the splitter beam to arrange the next round, or hold large splits (half rounds or less) without them falling to the ground is a much larger benefit to my productivity. In addition, having the next bunch of rounds at a sensible working height as opposed to on the ground is another significant factor, and finally, having a cart / trailer to throw the splits into that when full takes the splits to the stacking area is a boon. Basically, what I am saying is that I hate lifting the wood any more times than I have to. Since I bought my Bobcat with its 3/4 yard bucket, moving rounds or splits just got a whole lot easier. I am looking for indiustrial wire baskets (pallet size x 3ft high) and with that I can fill them with splits and move using forks on the loader. In winter, empty one basket, bring the next. When empty, the sides fold down for a collapsed height of about 6". I will only have to make 1 cover for the "active" basket outside the front door. The baskets can be stacked several high, but I would not go higher than 2 for safety. That is still 6 ft high with no precision stacking needed and all 6 sides open to air circulation.

 

[Duetech]

We've pondered that, and based on the setup we figure it's between 20 and 22 ton.

Originally mine is a 20 ton but that was with a 5 hp and now I have a 6.5 on it. The motor in itself won't increase the output rating but it is a step in the right direction. The four inch cylinder on the splitter is original too but I might go to a 5" if the wedge proves to be more of a hindrance than a help. It's good to know that yours works well though and it leads me to believe I really won't need to replace a lot of my splitters parts to boost output. Thanks for the input.

 

[iceman]

We've pondered that, and based on the setup we figure it's between 20 and 22 ton.

Originally mine is a 20 ton but that was with a 5 hp and now I have a 6.5 on it. The motor in itself won't increase the output rating but it is a step in the right direction. The four inch cylinder on the splitter is original too but I might go to a 5" if the wedge proves to be more of a hindrance than a help. It's good to know that yours works well though and it leads me to believe I really won't need to replace a lot of my splitters parts to boost output. Thanks for the input.

pm gooserider he knows alot about that stuff i think in order to increase tonnage you need a pump that can push more as well a bigger engine and cylinder wont just increase it by itself..

 

[SolarAndWood]

i think in order to increase tonnage you need a pump that can push more as well a bigger engine and cylinder wont just increase it by itself..

The bigger cylinder will, it will just move slower if you don't put a bigger pump on it. And if you put a bigger pump on it, you will likely need a bigger motor to drive it.

Cave, I think you are right on with trying the 4-way as the easiest/cheapest way to increase output especially on any of the straight stuff that your splitter is barely working on anyway. Just keep an eye on the stresses on the frame. I've noticed with my little splitter with more power from replacing the old gas motor with an electric that I can flex the beam.

 

[Pagey]

Here's a pic of the splitter we use the 4 way wedge on. I cannot begin to imagine how many cords of wood have been processed by this. My paternal grandfather made it when I was a kid, and I'm 32 now.

 

[SolarAndWood]

Here's a pic of the splitter we use the 4 way wedge on. I cannot begin to imagine how many cords of wood have been processed by this. My paternal grandfather made it when I was a kid, and I'm 32 now.

It is cool to be able to use tools that have been used by generations before you, even better when one of them made it. Do you have a pic of the 4-way on it? The way that is built and from the looks of the rounds you have, I bet it would have no problem with a 6-way.

 

[Pagey]

Sorry, but I do not have a pic with the 4 way wedge on. We just slip it over the single blade/wedge and split all the rounds that are about the right size for the 4 way. Anything too large or too small, we take it off and proceed with the single. I'll try to get a pic of the 4 way soon and post it up!

 

[Chris S]

I bought the 4 way from Northern this year, and use it on a 25 yr old Northern splitter. It would not fit as sent, so I ground off the loop that is supposed to go over the wedge, and will customize that later.
I split a lot of oak, ash, and maple. For the knarly, bigger stuff, I left the 4 way off. For the ash, and straight maple pieces, it save a stroke. makes for fast work.

 

[Duetech]

Cave, I think you are right on with trying the 4-way as the easiest/cheapest way to increase output especially on any of the straight stuff that your splitter is barely working on anyway. Just keep an eye on the stresses on the frame. I've noticed with my little splitter with more power from replacing the old gas motor with an electric that I can flex the beam.[/quote]

SolarandWood...I was thinking of trying to go electric with my splitter what size motor did you use and were there any conversions that you had to work with i.e. electrics usually roun around 1725 rpm vs 3600 for gas and a pump for electric? The Huskee main frame is pretty sturdy so I thing it can handle a boost up. The model I have was the smallest tonnage for the same frame for that year but thanks for the warning. It wouldn't do to assume too much.

Nisce splitter Pagey. Roll up table and all. your Gramps was thinking.

 

[SolarAndWood]

SolarandWood...I was thinking of trying to go electric with my splitter what size motor did you use and were there any conversions that you had to work with i.e. electrics usually roun around 1725 rpm vs 3600 for gas and a pump for electric?

Smaller single phase electrics that run in the 3400 range are pretty easy to find as they are widely used on compressors. I replaced a B&S;5hp with a 2hp electric that came off a compressor with a rotten tank. I reused the original single stage pump, just had to pick up a Lovejoy for the smaller shaft of the electric motor. I didn't do much analysis as the motor and splitter were essentially free. I have split 12 or so cord this year with it and am very happy. The 2hp electric is far more powerful than the gas even when the gas was running properly. As another reference, Ramsplitter uses a 3 hp motor on their 20 ton with I believe an 11gpm 2-stage pump. There are a lot of advantages with electric, especially if you do all your splitting within 50 feet of the shed anyway.

 

[Duetech]

SolarAndWood, Thanks for the input!

 

[SolarAndWood]

SolarAndWood, Thanks for the input!

My pleasure, let me know how the 4 way/electric experiment goes. My next experiment is a 6hp electric/6 way slipover wedge on a splitter my father in law built 20 years ago.