Going to be changing the glass soon.

[Hogwildz]

Welp, my new neoceram should arrive Monday. I actually saved $10.00 by ordering online from a place in WA. state, then it costs me to drive 20 miles to the glass shop and pick it up here.
I am going to try and do a step by step deal for the forum, but my patience isn't the best for these things. I do want to warn others, if your planning on replacing your glass, take measurements of what you have in there before ordering. The new PE manual for the Summit lists the glass size as 17-7/8" x 9-7/8". Actual measurement of what was in there from factory is 17-1/2" x 9-1/2". And by the looks of the retaining frame there is not another 1/8" of room for the larger measurement. Hence, don't always rely on the manual, take you own measurements. I'll keep yall posted.

 

[Jimbob]

Hog.
Don't forget to coat the $hit out those screws with Nev-r-seez when you re-install 'em. :coolsmile:
Good point on the measurements. I'll keep that in mind if I ever have to replace mine. :gulp:

 

[Hogwildz]

Will do. I was amazed at how easily they came off. Guess being under the gasket protects them.
Glass just arrived, I'll start the project after work today.

 

[fossil]

Maybe you could get Ken Burns & crew in to shoot a documentary. :coolsmile: Rick

 

[Hogwildz]

I don't think I would fit the look they would be seeking.
I am not worthy.

 

[begreen]

Go gently on the screws. The glass should be clamped with just enough pressure to start to compress the gasket.

Maybe you could get the Capital One crew to film you at work? They like working with Neanderthals.

 

[fossil]

Final shot's a tight one of Hog asking, "What's in your stove door?". :coolsmirk: RIck

 

[Hogwildz]

HAHAHA, ya preeks.

I will be gentle with tightening. I did talk with Tom and he assured me these are set to stop well before breakage, I will still be careful.

 

[fossil]

Just make sure you use a screwdriver rather than a rock. :ahhh: Rick

 

[Hogwildz]

Next you'll expect me to roll things around with a wheel? Sheesh

 

[countrybois]

Go gently on the screws. The glass should be clamped with just enough pressure to start to compress the gasket.

Good advice. I put in my $60 window to replaced a cracked one and...yep, you guessed it, cracked the new one. Decided I will live with a cracked one for a while.

 

[Henz]

why did you need to replace the glass. I wont do it, or the gaskets. I will simply pull my stove door off and bring it into the stove place and have them eplace the gaskets etc and then pick it up on my way home

 

[Hogwildz]

why did you need to replace the glass. I wont do it, or the gaskets. I will simply pull my stove door off and bring it into the stove place and have them eplace the gaskets etc and then pick it up on my way home

The glass is intact. But in haste last year, I wiped it down on the inside with a rag that inadvertently had furnace cement on it, which put fine scratches in it. It is like a foggy haze not, and I cannot see through it. Its functional, but I want to view the fire, and also be able to see the burn stages, etc.

I was also told by a reputable stove seller whom I will not name, not to use a wet rag & ash, as the ash is also an abrasive.
Not trying to stir a debate, for me its just something I will adhere to for myself. Why bother chancing it, when there are many perfectly capable cleaners and they don't cost that much. My manual also states do not clean while hot, which I also did. So I am going to be changing my cleaning habits. I am not pushing my changes on anyone else, so spare the debates that usually follow (generalized, not pointing to one person), thanks.

 

[struggle]

fess up Hog you thought you were on to something by cleaning the glass with 80 grit sandpaper :snake:


another revolutionary break through idea down the tank :-S

 

[gpcollen1]

why did you need to replace the glass. I wont do it, or the gaskets. I will simply pull my stove door off and bring it into the stove place and have them eplace the gaskets etc and then pick it up on my way home

The glass is intact. But in haste last year, I wiped it down on the inside with a rag that inadvertently had furnace cement on it, which put fine scratches in it. It is like a foggy haze not, and I cannot see through it. Its functional, but I want to view the fire, and also be able to see the burn stages, etc.

I was also told by a reputable stove seller whom I will not name, not to use a wet rag & ash, as the ash is also an abrasive.
Not trying to stir a debate, for me its just something I will adhere to for myself. Why bother chancing it, when there are many perfectly capable cleaners and they don't cost that much. My manual also states do not clean while hot, which I also did. So I am going to be changing my cleaning habits. I am not pushing my changes on anyone else, so spare the debates that usually follow (generalized, not pointing to one person), thanks.

I like the idea of having spare glass around the house just in case something crazy happens and the new one cracks during a blizzard!!

 

[Wolves-Lower]

Instead of starting another thread..perhaps you Gentlemen can assist me.

I have been so busy re-building my house after the Midwest floods, that I am just getting around to putting the stove back together.

In my haste of clean up, I ripped out my firebrick and stripped my gaskets from my Century stove.

So,
I replaced the door gasket...no brainer.
But the glass gasket is stumping me for some reason.
You would think I could remember!

Does it go Glass...then gasket?
Or Gasket then glass?
I am also having a hard time finding fire bricks.
Menards sell them, but they are all the same size.

Any help would be appriciated.

Wolves.

 

[fossil]

...please sell me your old glass cheap.might want to keep it for spare eh? never know

C'mon, Pook...you just want to auction it on eBay after it's been featured on TV. You'll probably claim to see an outline of the Shroud of Turin in it or something, too. %-P Rick

 

[Hogwildz]

I am keeping the old for back up. Just in case this one breaks, etc. Nice to have one that fits and is ready in a pinch.
Wolves: The gasket on mine goes on wraps around both sides of the edge of the glass. I think they all pretty much do. Gasket on glass, then set on door, then your retaining frame(s).
This basically seals both inner & outer of the glass. The bricks you can get at any hardware store. You may have to cut them to suite your needs. Or order a kit from your stove manufacturer.

 

[Hogwildz]

Ok, as I suspected I would be, I was more "get it completed" than worried about photos. I took some, so here they are.
Pulled the glass out and the gasket was cut at the edge of the glass.
And here is door inner with glass removed.

 

[Hogwildz]

At first, I was going to leave the gasket on and work around it. Here is a shot of the retaining screw removed from one of the framing clamps. I was able to move the door gasket back enough to get to the screw.
The other photos is of the insert without the door on. I wanted to get it on and closed up while I waited for the new glass. I took the old glass out so I could get an accurate measurement. They manual is incorrect and had I gotten the size the manual specifies, it would have been too large and not fit.

 

[RedRanger]

Looks like it must have been an Ughhh, ugg, job imho. Good to see you have that stuborn streak to do it yourself Hog. It will serve you well most of the time. VAROOOME!! :lol:

 

[Hogwildz]

I hacked off a pc of 6mil black plastic and used the two thermometers I use on the insert to hold the plastic in place while I set the door back on and closed it over the plastic to seal it off until the new glass arrived.

 

[Hogwildz]

Pulled the massive jumbo 1" gasket I installed last year on the door, and had to clean the silicone off. A wire wheel and scraper works real good. Scrap the heavy off, I used a 1" spackle blade & razor blade, then wire wheeled i7 spanking clean. Then put the new glass with new glass gasket & retaining frame in place. Not clamped and screwed at this point.

 

[Hogwildz]

I then set the 4 clamps, and put seizing prohibitor on the 4 screws. And slowly and a lil each time tightened the screws on the clamps, which in turn clamped down on the framing. One thing my ol man taught me when I was young, was to tighten bolts/screws etc a lil at a time and criss cross or alternate the tightening sequence. Similar to engine head bolt tightening patterns etc. I did the same with the glass, just knowing it was going to crack the next tightening round. Tom told me they would bottom out before breaking the glass, but I was still worried not wanting to break or crack the new glass. Then I got paranoid it was not tight enough and would leak air.
So I slowly alternately tightened until they all pretty much stopped. And it didn't break!! Or crack! UG UGG UGG

Next I pumped a bead of silicone on the door getting it ready for the door gasket. I opted for the factory high density 7/8 semi flat gasket this time. Set it in place, and put the door on the insert. Checked that the gasket was centered on the knife edge as best as could be. Of course the latch needed tightening now with the thinner gasket. I am still not sold on this gasket. I have it almost close to max adjustment for tightening, and the bill is fairly loose on the latch side. If it won't seal, I'll rip it off and go back to the 1" less low density round gasket like before. I KNOW that seals well.

Oh the reason I ended up replacing the door gasket was when I wire brushed the area that the glass gasket sat (was a lil surface rusted) I got up against the side of the door gasket (could not avoid) and it separated into layers. I was not going to trust it at that point and since I had the right gasket for it, I replaced with new.
And lastly, the old glass, now kept for emergency back up.

Soon to come, a small fire to evacuate any bees or nests that may be in the liner, then cleaning the liner & replace the baffle gasket.

 

[RedRanger]

Hog: I am worn out looking at the pics and reading thru your trials and tribulations. Good God man --why didn`t you just remove the damn door and take it to the nearest dealer??
With that kind of resilence, you must be a biker?? ;-P

Or else, you are living too close to a Nuke Plant= hot,hot, fry,fry :gulp: