Good felling video

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I'll note that, that type of notch is best used on soft wood trees being felled in areas where there will be little to no top/limb contact with other trees .
That type of notch will cause a hardwood tree to kick back due to the "throwing" nature of the technique and "springyness" (for the lack of a better term) of hardwood limbs.
The throwing nature of the technique is preferred by cutters on softwoods causing the limbs on the underside of a tree to snap off and a flatter lay for a cutter to limb.
Different situations require different techniques.
 
unfortunateLEE said:
I'll note that, that type of notch is best used on soft wood trees being felled in areas where there will be little to no top/limb contact with other trees .
That type of notch will cause a hardwood tree to kick back due to the "throwing" nature of the technique and "springyness" (for the lack of a better term) of hardwood limbs.
The throwing nature of the technique is preferred by cutters on softwoods causing the limbs on the underside of a tree to snap off and a flatter lay for a cutter to limb.
Different situations require different techniques.

Yea Affarid I would be a little more than akward using a undercut, but pretty cool for a drama show.
 
Good link..

I always use the stranded notch unless on the side if a bluff and I want a nice clean slide down the mountain then it is humbolt ....
 
I was taught the Humboldt decades ago. I think the main reason was to not take a notch out of the market portion which devalued it. When I cut for firewood, I still do the Humboldt probably cuz I'm anal and don't want to take the notch out of my firewood leaving odd shaped splits.

Also, I get a good feeling as the tree is going down, having the leading edge below the stump so that the butt doesn't kick back as much if/when the hinge lets go.
 
unfortunateLEE said:
I'll note that, that type of notch is best used on soft wood trees being felled in areas where there will be little to no top/limb contact with other trees .
That type of notch will cause a hardwood tree to kick back due to the "throwing" nature of the technique and "springyness" (for the lack of a better term) of hardwood limbs.
The throwing nature of the technique is preferred by cutters on softwoods causing the limbs on the underside of a tree to snap off and a flatter lay for a cutter to limb.
Different situations require different techniques.
Nice insight there, Lee. Thanks for the info.
 
LLigetfa said:
I was taught the Humboldt decades ago. I think the main reason was to not take a notch out of the market portion which devalued it. When I cut for firewood, I still do the Humboldt probably cuz I'm anal and don't want to take the notch out of my firewood leaving odd shaped splits.

Also, I get a good feeling as the tree is going down, having the leading edge below the stump so that the butt doesn't kick back as much if/when the hinge lets go.

Only way I was taught. I always liiked it because the tree 'jumps off' the stump gets it down quick. that and I think there less of a chance for rolling, probably wouldnt matter though.
Only thing I hate is cuting up from so low on the ground.
 
I prefer the Humboldt notch as well from my cedar logging days. I am more comfortable with using it and plus it doesn't take away any length from the first log. If I am felling and the trees are "friendly" looking I like to use a bore cut as well and just cut away the backstrap. If not so "friendly" I go with the backcut and wedges.
 
Stump_Branch said:
Only thing I hate is cuting up from so low on the ground.
I was taught to cut it real low. Back in the old days of mainline chokers, if the stumps were too high, the skidder couldn't move and the chokers would snag and break.

It always took more time cuz you had to clear the snow away to get low enough. I worked on a slash job clearing the site for the Atikokan Generating Station and we were each given a strip to cut. They were offering a bonus for every acre more than one acre a day. I didn't need a RPN calculator to figure out when you got to the end of your strip, that you were out of a job. I took my time and cut the stumps low, cutting just a little more than an acre a day. The other guys were cutting at waist height and doing two acres a day. Of course they finished before me and got laid off. Then they brought in the skidders to remove the wood but they couldn't move with all the tall stumps. I ended up having to recut all the stumps and stayed on a lot longer.
 
LLigetfa said:
Stump_Branch said:
Only thing I hate is cuting up from so low on the ground.
I was taught to cut it real low. Back in the old days of mainline chokers, if the stumps were too high, the skidder couldn't move and the chokers would snag and break.

It always took more time cuz you had to clear the snow away to get low enough. I worked on a slash job clearing the site for the Atikokan Generating Station and we were each given a strip to cut. They were offering a bonus for every acre more than one acre a day. I didn't need a RPN calculator to figure out when you got to the end of your strip, that you were out of a job. I took my time and cut the stumps low, cutting just a little more than an acre a day. The other guys were cutting at waist height and doing two acres a day. Of course they finished before me and got laid off. Then they brought in the skidders to remove the wood but they couldn't move with all the tall stumps. I ended up having to recut all the stumps and stayed on a lot longer.

I know this story...Was the other fellers French?
 
Always remember to get away quickly, as they can also barber chair, killing you.

So clean the area near the tree base, so you do not trip over branches and crap as you get out of the way.
 
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