Grandma Bear??

[cmurf70]

What have I got here? Grandma or Grandpa? It has a one piece top plate that measure 29.5" wide. I think the fire box measures 24" wide inside the brick.

Also, I was wondering where I could get replacement air dampers? These are bent and will not close all the way. They are not original are they?

Another question...the doors have a rope gasket in them, I have read that this is not needed. What is the best way to align the doors because I believe the rope was put in because the doors wouldn't seal properly? I have tried sliding them off, not happening.

Thanks

Chad

 

[begreen]

I'm guessing grandma. How many firebricks are there across the back?

Definitely run it gasketed for better control.

 

[cmurf70]

6 bricks

 

[pen]

Think that's a grandpa

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/File:fisheradrear.jpg/

pen

 

[Redbear86]

yea the dimensions make it a Grandpa but if i'm not mistaken the lettering spacing on the doors is similar to the grandma, bet Coaly would like to see your foundry marks on the inside of the doors

 

[CamFan]

It is a Grandpa, Coaly addressed the draft cap issue earlier and he said each manufacture did different things to save money and draft caps were one of these things. They could be original. As far as replacing them it is the bolts bent not the caps probably. If you close the cap and see where the gap is againts the door, back the cap open again until the part of the cap that touches first is off the door about a 1/4" or so. If you put a flat pry bar under the cap and lift it with slight pressure you can tweak the bolt till the cap closes flat again. It does not take much to do this. The bolts can warp or if the hole in the door was not drilled just right it can cause the problem you are having.

 

[cmurf70]

Yes it is the draft cap bolts that are bent. No ideas where I can get replacement caps and bolts anyway?

 

[CamFan]

Coaly has a line on draft caps I think he said. I would wait on him to jump in. I googled them and found this link for caps. I have the bolts but you may be able to get them in your area. They are 1/2" threaded all the way.

http://www.barrcasting.com/draft.html

 

[Jimbo0135]

That is a great looking stove,I have a Grandma Bear III and it is not as wide as yours.

 

[coaly]

The space between the trees is wide, and is a give away of a Grandpa. Grandma doors are made with the trees much closer, almost touching the door edges. Your doors may be marked inside, GP/L and GP/R for Grandpa Left and Right. Most, but not all are marked.

The original black iron pipe caps you have were used at first with 1/2" bolts "plug" welded inside, and the bolt spun in the door. (as originally invented) Deposits accumulated on the bolt inside the stove, and were difficult to turn. So the draft cap invention allowed the bolt to be double nutted to the door, and the draft cap spins on the threads outside the combustion area. Yours was either an idea from a fabricator to drill the center of the pipe cap, and thread it, to allow the cap to run back and forth on the outside threads, or the bolts broke off the inside of the caps, and someone fixed it by drilling and tapping the pipe caps to make them work like a newer draft cap. Here's a pic of the original pipe cap bolt welded to the inside of a cap. The 1/2" NC bolts used with draft caps are a regular 3 1/2" long bolt. Not hardened, no marks on the head.

To make replacement caps like you have, obtain regular black iron pipe caps. Drill a hole in the center 27/64" diameter. Thead this hole with a 1/2-13 National Course tap. Drilling and tapping is best done with kerosene, or water, not oil as used on steel. This is like drilling and tapping cast iron. They are Malleable Iron. (weldable and easily machined)