Grow light question

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pybyr

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jun 3, 2008
2,300
Adamant, VT 05640
I recently came upon a batch of very big grow-lights being sold in a local gov't surplus auction- they'd been confiscated and then ended up as evidence in a prosecution of someone who was growing ... something other than vegetables.

I picked up a 400 watt one in hopes of using it to start vegetable seeds next season.

It is a "Diamond Horticultural" -- I have tried googling it in hopes of finding a manual, but no luck- any suggestions?

Also, it turns out that the bulb that came in it is a 600 watt-- I'm not familiar enough with these to know whether that might safely be used with the 400 watt power supply/ ballast (might the supply self-limit the bulb?) or whether that'd be asking for trouble.

Suggestions appreciated!

Thanks

Trevor
 
So . . . uh . . . what are planning on growing? ;)
 
^^ Just because the first owner got caught, doesn't mean he will too.
 
florescent lights are the way to start plants....Then lights you have are for the growing and flowering stage and takes much more power.
 
Is that a High Pressure Sodium lamp? I agree with smokinjay, fluorescent would be more appropriate for starting seeds, and a lot less expensive to run. HPS also get really freaking hot. Run a couple of those 24/7 and it'll only be about 3 weeks before some men in black vests show up to "introduce" themselves.
 
I disagree with the fluorescent lights. Sure they are fine until they sprout but those seedlings want sunlight and not crappy artificial light. If you want the seedlings leggy and thin, use the fluor - and if you want stout and hearty seedlings, use something that approached that of what the sun puts out.

PS - take a look at what is coming out in LEDs.

As for someone showing up at your door, that 400 watt unit [and that is the only bulb I would put it in there if what you say is accurate] won't give anyone a clue about anything. It just does not draw enough power to cause suspicion. I would get an agro bulb that gives the full spectrum of light instead of a HPS or MH.
 
CTwoodburner said:
I disagree with the fluorescent lights. Sure they are fine until they sprout but those seedlings want sunlight and not crappy artificial light. If you want the seedlings leggy and thin, use the fluor - and if you want stout and hearty seedlings, use something that approached that of what the sun puts out.

PS - take a look at what is coming out in LEDs.

As for someone showing up at your door, that 400 watt unit [and that is the only bulb I would put it in there if what you say is accurate] won't give anyone a clue about anything. It just does not draw enough power to cause suspicion. I would get an agro bulb that gives the full spectrum of light instead of a HPS or MH.
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I have never talked to anyone about growing with LED's, so I'd be curious how that works out. I've used grow lamps, tube fluorescents and compact fluorescents and incandescents and have not seen any differences with the "non-growlight". I think it mostly comes down to pure lumens as long as you have a relatively balanced spectrum. I'm sure there are particular spectrums that work poorly though. This may vary, I suppose, with what types of veggies, but I'm not sure. I wouldn't try to grow giant pumpkins under pure artificial light, but sprouting some seeds and gaining 3 weeks on mother nature? I think most lights will do that ok.

Oh, I agree with CT, use 400 watt bulb with 400 watt ballast. Hmm, would the 600 watt bulb just burn dimmer? or would it put strain on the ballast? anyone know?
 
I've tried grow lights (flourescent) for tomatoes and they're bettter than plain white lights but they're not the greatest substitute for the sun. And you sure do need a lot of them. (not surprising basement "herb" growers get busted by thier electric bills)
I did grow tomatoes in the basement with them.
But when I moved the plants outside in July they bleached in the sun.
And those that stayed in the basement and actually got tomatoes on them did alright. I figured those tomatoes cost me a bout fifteen dollars a pound, though. :)
 
CTwoodburner said:
I disagree with the fluorescent lights. Sure they are fine until they sprout but those seedlings want sunlight and not crappy artificial light. If you want the seedlings leggy and thin, use the fluor - and if you want stout and hearty seedlings, use something that approached that of what the sun puts out.

PS - take a look at what is coming out in LEDs.

As for someone showing up at your door, that 400 watt unit [and that is the only bulb I would put it in there if what you say is accurate] won't give anyone a clue about anything. It just does not draw enough power to cause suspicion. I would get an agro bulb that gives the full spectrum of light instead of a HPS or MH.
Click to expand...



fluorescent within a couple inch's of the plant 24/7 will sprout seeds very aggressively move the light up as it grows....This will be a 2-4 week process then throw the power to it with the 400w at the 16-18 hrs 2-4 week then if your trying to get flowers fruit or veggies back it off to 12-14 hrs. Not saying that the fluresent is better all the time just in the seedling stage it is.
 
I have a friend that bought a house cheap from the DEA. After the helicopter with the heat sensors flew over it. He sold two hundred florescent fixtures out of the basement for four bucks apiece.
 
I have seen more improvement starting tomatoes with one of the heated mats that go underneath the trays than any of the incandescent grow lights or standard fluorescents that I have tried. You may want to look into one of those as they don't cost much.
 
My guess is that if the wattage on the bulb exceeds the wattage rating on the power supply, that it will make the power supply run hotter than it is designed for.
 
For starting seeds I use flu lights- keep them RIGHT ON TOP of the plants. Almost touching. I have 2 setups, 2 lights each. Here's the key (for me at least)- a heat mat giving bottom heat. I keep the area where I start them cool (basement) and they do fine like this. If I had just a good sunny window- I'd use that, but I really don't have any at all.
 
LLigetfa said:
My guess is that if the wattage on the bulb exceeds the wattage rating on the power supply, that it will make the power supply run hotter than it is designed for.
Click to expand...
the bulb is a resistor only
 
Adios Pantalones said:
For starting seeds I use flu lights- keep them RIGHT ON TOP of the plants. Almost touching. I have 2 setups, 2 lights each. Here's the key (for me at least)- a heat mat giving bottom heat. I keep the area where I start them cool (basement) and they do fine like this. If I had just a good sunny window- I'd use that, but I really don't have any at all.
Click to expand...

The heat mat is a great idea...forgot about that one.
 
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