Had to use a my wedges

[Bspring]

I am working on clearing a section of land for a pole barn. The tall pine in the center of the picture needs to come down. I want it to fall to the camera. I cut my face cut, then my back cut. I stopped to check everything before I went all the way. It looked good but when I got ready to make the final inch the saw was pinched. The tree had leaned back and closed up the back cut. It kept leaning more and more that direction. I really didn't want it to fall that way. I have never used wedges to control the direction that a tree falls and I was doubtful that they could straighten a tree leaning this far. If the wedges did not work my options were let it fall the direction that it wanted or try to push it with my loader and I didn't want to do that for fear that it would fall on me. I had one of the plastic wedges and one of the big splitting wedges with me. The plastic one went in about half way and broke off so I hammered the big splitting wedge in half way and then went back to the house and got another plastic one. I drove them both in all the way and sure enough the tree slowly leaned back the correct direction and then fell right where it should have. I was really impressed.

The two pictures with the wedges in them were right after the tree fell and they have not been moved. That shows how how much it took to correct the lean. The stump had to be removed next and I had to really put out to get it to let go. Pine stumps usually come up with out much trouble. I had to dig all the way around it and then once I got it out my loader could not pick it up so it will have to stay there for a while until I figure out what to do with it.

 

[smokinj]

Thats a good looking stump! I always use a wedge.................

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I need to get a few and use them. I have to make my wedge deeper to compensate.

Matt

 

[joshlaugh]

I am a big fan of wedges to better direct how I drop trees and carry them in the field. I always use them for my work since I drop trees around buildings, benches, etc and really don't want them going the wrong direction..

 

[RNLA]

If you look around you can find some wedges called redhead or hard-head. They have a metal head so when you need to really drive it home you will not have the broken wedge like you show. There are also wedges with "rifle" grooves on them this feature is so you can stack wedges to gain more advantage, so then you do not have to use your metal wedge. Always use plastic or wood wedges when falling a tree if you need to reinsert your saw you can do so without fear of dulling the chain...

 

[JustWood]

Another tip to help not break wedges is take your time pounding it in. Less abuse AND the top of the tree has to catch up and stop moving before the next hit.
I can't remember the correct figures but it is something like for every inch of vertical lift at the stump the top at 60' up has to move 10' horizontalLEE.
The more wedges the better and hit each one in sequence. Eye've had as many as 10 wedges in some big muthers B4 they tipped.

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Did you plunge cut and set a hinge and leave hold wood? I sight the tree and figure the amount of lean. Then I use the sight line on my saw and cut an open face notch (1/3) no more. I'll then plunge cut and set a good hinge (at least 1") setting a good hinge is key....now you have hold wood. Unless your tree is rotted your set hinge and hold wood are your friends. I'll then nip a portion of the hold wood with my saw on dominant lean side and set 1-3 wedges (depending on tree size) I'll then nip the other portion of hold wood and see where I stand, most often the tree will fall, if not use more wedges until your lift is granted.


WoodButcher

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I rarely use a wedge but sometimes they do come in handy. I always have some with me though.

 

[Bspring]

Woodbutcher, thank you for the diagram. I have not used the plunge cut method before but I have heard of it, just not explained in detail. I am still a rookie at cutting standing trees. Most of my work is on the ground. I look forward to working on this method.

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Woodbutcher, thank you for the diagram. I have not used the plunge cut method before but I have heard of it, just not explained in detail. I am still a rookie at cutting standing trees. Most of my work is on the ground. I look forward to working on this method.

Np, I have a good friend down the street who has 20 years of knowledge. Over the last few years he has shown me quite a bit.
He can put a tree anywhere he wants. Still learning myself though...........

WoodButcher

 

[smokinj]

Did you plunge cut and set a hinge and leave hold wood? I sight the tree and figure the amount of lean. Then I use the sight line on my saw and cut an open face notch (1/3) no more. I'll then plunge cut and set a good hinge (at least 1") setting a good hinge is key....now you have hold wood. Unless your tree is rotted your set hinge and hold wood are your friends. I'll then nip a portion of the hold wood with my saw on dominant lean side and set 1-3 wedges (depending on tree size) I'll then nip the other portion of hold wood and see where I stand, most often the tree will fall, if not use more wedges until your lift is granted.


WoodButcher

Note that you darn sure can use more than one wedge...Had a hollow big silver that took every wedge I and Maul had...lol DOUBLE STACK IS OK TOO!

 

[Cowboy Billy]

Thats the way I do it too Jay

I usually take three wedges out with me. I usually use two in the cut hit one then the other and it drives in a lot easier. And I have the third in case I have to stack one.

Billy