Harman P61A-2

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curt5911

Member
Sep 11, 2011
7
Cental NY
Went to start my P61A-2 for the first time this season and igniter light didn't come on. (It had stopped coming on automatically at the end of last year and I figured I just had to clean the fly ash from around the ignitor) Cleaned it out and the igniter light wasn't coming on. When I put it in test mode, everything comes on except for the igniter light. Without checking further (the fuse is fine), I bought an igniter from Grainger (mentioned elsewhere on this site). While trying to figure out which wires went to the igniter, I unbolted and removed the esp probe. Figured out the igniter, installed it and started the stove and the igniter worked fine. Started smelling smoke and realized I hadn't put the esp probe back. I shut the stove down, cleaned the probe and put it back in. Thoroughly cleaned the stove and put all the shields back together. Went to try the stove and the igniter light isn't coming on again. Tested the ohms on both the new and old igniter and they are fine. All the wire connections are tight. Started the stove manually and everything seems to work fine as far as the temperature controls and both fans, except with it in the off position, the stove continues to cycle pellets at a low rate. It went on for a few hours continuing to feed pellets and I finally unplugged it to shut it off. Any ideas as far as the igniter not working? Sorry for the long post, but wanted to be specific.
 
-2's are ultralight feeders, I believe. As for the igniter.........all bets are off, its a non-Harman part......Im sure this will arouse the ire of the Grainger addicts here, but possibly a non-interchangeable part?
 
When I put the feed switch on test or plug in the power cord, the igniter light on the control board lights up for a very split second and then goes out. The only other thing I noticed was when cleaning the stove there was quite a bit of creosote buildup, which I've never had. (I've burned dry creek and new england and a few odd bags of whatever I found at the end of the season and never had an issue.) Since the igniter light lights up for just a second and everything else seems to be functioning correctly on the board, I'm ruling the board out?? Could a bad esp have anything to do with the creosote issue or somehow be related to the igniter? I figured with the lack of responses, I would just break down and buy a harman igniter and a new esp probe. Not a bad investment going into it's sixth winter with 3-5 tons of pellets a year. Just didn't want to start replacing parts for the sake of replacing parts. And the Grainger igniter that read .46 ohms a few days ago now reads
.38 if that makes a difference.
 
status light on control board blinking at all? you trying this in room temp or stove temp? any chance you have the ignitor switch set to manual accidentally?

ignitor light should not come on in test mode, so thats ok. damage to the ESP could trick the stove into running oddly, or thinking that its runnin when its not. take a look at the ESP, if its bent, even a bit, that could be the problem....only the DDM will tell you for sure.
 
No status lights blinking, set on room temp and auto igniter. The esp was bent, cleaned and straightened it but didn't make a difference.
Im thinking I'll just replace the esp and the igniter with a harman approved one. Thanks.
 
Replaced the esp probe and the igniter. Everything is working fine, except it's not lighting. Igniter cycles for the 36 min or whatever, doesn't light and goes to the 5 blink error code. Burn pot gets warm but not hot. Is it possible to install an igniter wrong so it's too far from the burnpot? The holes in the burnpot are all clear.
 
its is possible to put the ignitor bracket together incorrectly and that will prevent ignition. Make sure the rectagular plate with the 2 slots has its side wall sitting flush to the rest of the bracket. If its protruding along the edge of the bracket its in there backwards, flip it around, reinstall and it should work.
 
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