Hello, i recently purchased a Heatilator Eco PS-50 Pellet burner to heat my 2k sq foot home, the heat it puts out is amazing, however, i have the feed rate cranked all the way down as far as it will go, and still the burnpot fills way faster than the fuel can be burnt and we are wasting alot. I am using Barefoot pellets which i guess are supposed to be super premium low ash. I clean it regularly just as it says to in the manual and probably even a little better just because of this problem that i am having. Anyone have any suggestions?
Heatilator ECO PS-50 Crazy Flames
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SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Can you describe your venting starting at the stove and going to the termination cap?
Are you using an OAK?
Also did you have the stove professionally installed and if so did they adjust the damper if the stove has one?
Also what is your altitude above sea level.
Are you using an OAK?
Also did you have the stove professionally installed and if so did they adjust the damper if the stove has one?
Also what is your altitude above sea level.
The Venting is a 90 degree off the back of the stove, 4 footer up, 90 degree back, 4 footer out, then a T with a cleanout at the bottom, and another 90 degree and a 45 degree screened cap facing downish
Not using an OAK
No the stove was not professorially installed
Altitude above Sea level is about 512 ft.
Not using an OAK
No the stove was not professorially installed
Altitude above Sea level is about 512 ft.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Andyamy62504 said:
Now you must realize that I haven't seen the venting information for your stove however if that is 3" pipe you are over any of the recommended EVL's I've seen for any stove at sea level.
Basically your stove is being starved for air, thus the bad burn. It isn't that your stove is dumping too many pellets, it is the fact your stove isn't getting the air it needs to burn those pellets.
If I can find an installation manual a bit later I'll verify a few things. Now after we get the venting taken care of you'll need to completely clean that stove and venting as there is likely a ton of ash packed in the nooks and crannies.
ETA: The maximum EVL before needing at least 4" pipe is 15, the three 90 degree joints plus the clean out T at an EVL of 5 apiece comes to 20 plus the EVL of 2 for the four foot vertical makes it 22 plus the 4 for the four foot horizontal make it 26. Way too much constriction, I'll even bet that you likely put a level on the four foot horizontal section and have it smack dab on bubble, horizontal runs need to be pitched upward going towards the vent exit.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Would you please take a picture of the outside venting.
I'm trying to see if it is possible to ditch two pieces of 90 degree joints. The outside T and 90 degree joint.
The T should have been at the stove instead of a 90 degree bend.
I'm debating about how much room you have behind the stove and if that 4' horizontal piece might be able to also be reduced.
I'm trying to get to an EVL of 15. But it will depend on if all clearances can maintained, both inside and outside the house.
I'm trying to see if it is possible to ditch two pieces of 90 degree joints. The outside T and 90 degree joint.
The T should have been at the stove instead of a 90 degree bend.
I'm debating about how much room you have behind the stove and if that 4' horizontal piece might be able to also be reduced.
I'm trying to get to an EVL of 15. But it will depend on if all clearances can maintained, both inside and outside the house.
kinsmanstoves
Minister of Fire
Andyamy62504 said:
Your venting is the problem. Please refer to the owner's manual Page 30 and if you have issues call me.
Eric
330-448-0300
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Hopefully you didn't go overboard on the silly cone.
I'd remove the outside T and the 90 degree elbow.
Put the termination cap on the end of horizontal section.
If the T comes off cleanly I'd seriously consider replacing the 90 degree elbow at the rear of the stove with the T.
If it doesn't come off cleanly I'd get a new one and replace the 90 degree elbow at the rear of the stove with it.
I'm now debating weather it would also be of benefit to shorten that horizontal portion by a foot.
The golden rule for venting is to use the minimum length with fewest bends as possible even if you use 4" pipe.
I'd remove the outside T and the 90 degree elbow.
Put the termination cap on the end of horizontal section.
If the T comes off cleanly I'd seriously consider replacing the 90 degree elbow at the rear of the stove with the T.
If it doesn't come off cleanly I'd get a new one and replace the 90 degree elbow at the rear of the stove with it.
I'm now debating weather it would also be of benefit to shorten that horizontal portion by a foot.
The golden rule for venting is to use the minimum length with fewest bends as possible even if you use 4" pipe.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
I'd also put some dirt, rocks, bricks, or concrete under the termination.
It is hard to tell how far above the ground the termination cap will be and there shouldn't be any combustible material within the required vent termination limits in the installation instructions.
It is hard to tell how far above the ground the termination cap will be and there shouldn't be any combustible material within the required vent termination limits in the installation instructions.
The people that i bought the pipe from said that it twists together tightly and that i didn't need to use silicone on it, so it's not a problem to take it all apart, and redo it, i'm actually headed down right now to clean it out throughly and re work the piping. I'll post soon to let you know how it works, I cannot thank you all enough for the information. I've called the place i bought the stove from 3 times with no response. Wish i could tip you for your services!
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Andyamy62504 said:
You can send all tips in the form of brews to Eric of kinsman stoves, who is willing to offer his advice (he sells the unit you have and is a decent person), just remember I'm still debating about shortening that horizontal section, it is also possible to do the up and out using 45 degree bends, however you loose the clean out T and will likely need to play around a bit to get the correct length of the diagonal section.
The alternative is to replace the 3" with 4" pipe. I figure if we can avoid that you'll not be out more money.
geek
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
The stove is burning 100 times better! The flames are still a very slight tad higher than they should be but the black ash isn't forming on the door anymore and the house actually seemed a bit warmer when we got home tonight. AAgain i can't thank you guys enough for the info.
I'll definatly be visiting this forum alot more in days to come.
I'll definatly be visiting this forum alot more in days to come.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Andyamy62504 said:
Glad it is burning better.
When you get a chance you might want to list any devices in your house that have fans and vent outside, or use a flame and vent outside, in particular stove vents, shower vents, gas hot water heaters, furnaces/boilers. Also if any of those are in the same room with the stove.
I noted that the stove appears to be in a basement that has uninsulated walls, this is a problem.
Just the 2 vents in our 2 bathrooms upstairs, and a dryer vent in the basment about 20 feet away from the stove. The basement is block but only the top half of the windward wall and the back wall are above ground.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Andyamy62504 said:
Ideally those walls need to be insulated, absent insulating the full wall they should be insulated to at least the frost line.
The reason I asked about the vents is because it is possible that you might run into a negative pressure situation. Besides this causing burn issues it is also a potential health/safety issue.
I'm just covering the bases and hopefully you won't be asking questions about why isn't my stove producing any heat.
I'll head to Lowes tomorrow and look into insulating the walls. We want to finish the basement eventually anyway's. I read about negative pressure in the manual to the stove.
My father in-law is a General contractor and he said we have enough airflow through the house for that to not be a problem here.
I also installed 3 Carbon Monoxide detectors when we installed the stove.
The stove is surely producing heat and keeps the house warm, we keep it around 65 with no problems other than the stove was not burning all of the fuel in the burnpot fast enough for it to not build up, it's been going about 12 hours now since i changed the piping around and the burnpot isn't full like it was yesterday.
My father in-law is a General contractor and he said we have enough airflow through the house for that to not be a problem here.
I also installed 3 Carbon Monoxide detectors when we installed the stove.
The stove is surely producing heat and keeps the house warm, we keep it around 65 with no problems other than the stove was not burning all of the fuel in the burnpot fast enough for it to not build up, it's been going about 12 hours now since i changed the piping around and the burnpot isn't full like it was yesterday.
Idahokid
Member
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
That's good to hear, and when getting pellets it helps a lot if you tend towards the low ash ones.
I only read the venting section of the manual so I have no idea what kinds of adjustments you can tweak in order to get the stove fully adjusted.
On the airflow through the house not being a problem, that will change as you tighten the place up so you need to be aware of it at all times.
I only read the venting section of the manual so I have no idea what kinds of adjustments you can tweak in order to get the stove fully adjusted.
On the airflow through the house not being a problem, that will change as you tighten the place up so you need to be aware of it at all times.
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