HELP! Englander 55 SHP Not Hot! (All Fixed!!!)

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Radguy

Member
Jan 16, 2012
14
Southern Adirondacks
I'm trying to get to my heat tubes to clean them. For some reason it doesn't seam that easy to get to? Any info would be greatly Appreciated!!!

Btw- This site is awesome I've been lurking for a few months learning :D

Stove was way out of wack from the factory 7-1-1
Running at 4-6-1 now and it's pretty decent. Well minus the fact that the heat out put after almost 2 tons of pellets has gone down. Doing a thorough cleaning now!!!
 
From what I could tell there are no heat tubes?
Just a plate kind of heat exchanger. I attached a small hose to my ash vac and cleaned it out the best I could.
Anyone have any info on how they clean theirs?
 
Leaf blower trick. Put it on the outside end of the exhaust, reversed, so it's sucking air out of the stove, leave the stove door open slightly.
 
wonder why they can't make the heat tubes so they screw on and off... :-/
 
Tubes?
 
Yeah I was reading here that when you notice a heat loss one thing to check is the heat tubes (exchangers). I checked mine out pretty good and couldn't find anywhere that I could access anything like that. So I just vacuumed it out the best I could with a small hose attachment.
Thanks
 
I think Radguy is talking about the OUTSIDE of the heat exchanger tubes. I clean mine with a wire brush but some folks use a paintbrush or something similar. I'm not sure, but I think Englander uses tubes on all their stoves.

Radguy, can you see them if you look up at the top of your chamber?

Chan
 
Copied from the 55-SHP22L owners manual:


Monthly Ash Removal
The large baffle plate (12-5/8†x 9-3/8â€) that rests above and behind the burn pot (refer to the
section on “Proper Impingement Plate Placement†and the exploded diagram in the rear of this
manual – Illustration 6) should be removed monthly. This can be done by lifting up the plate and
pulling it out. The area behind the plate should then be cleaned thoroughly, and the plate placed
back in the original position.
Use a screwdriver or chisel and break any creosote build-up in the front of the unit, where the
pellets are fed into the burn pot from the Bottom Auger Tube (see Illustration 2). Moisture in the
pellets and resulting build-up in this area can cause the bottom auger to “squeal†or squeak.
Also inspect your flue pipes, and remove ash buildup from the clean-out tee.
Carbon Removal: During normal operation carbon from the combustion of pellet fuel will tend
to build up on the tip of the auger, on the wear plate and sides of the fire pot, and in the mouth of
the feed tube. It is essential that this residue be removed to ensure trouble free operation of the
unit. The frequency with which this carbon must be removed varies with brands of pellets,
depending on moisture content, wood type, foreign material (dirt, etc.) in pellets, and other factors.
To remove this carbon, simply scrape it off using the blade of a flat tipped screwdriver or similar
instrument; also, to remove it from the feed tube, scrape as much as can be easily reached, then
insert an emery board (i.e. fingernail file made from a popsicle stick and sandpaper) between the
feed auger and the feed tube and sand out any residue not removed from scraping alone. Clearing
this carbon residue from the feed tube is essential for proper operation of the feed auger, which is
designed to float freely in the feed tube allowing smooth fuel flow, a lesser possibility of a jam, and
a quieter unit.
Annual Cleaning
The stove and the flue system should be given a complete cleaning at the end of the heating
season. Remove the burn pot assembly, clean it thoroughly, and re-install it (refer to
Illustration 6); this will require new gasket for the burn pot. Be sure to tighten the set screws when
you replace them, but do not over-tighten. In addition to the cleaning mentioned for semi-weekly
and monthly, the Combustion (exhaust) Blower should be removed annually and the blower tube
vacuumed of any ash build-up. Note: There is a Combustion Motor Gasket (Part PU-CMG), which
allows you to remove the motor from the Combustion Blower housing, clean your stove, and
replace the motor and gasket without having to remove the entire Combustion Blower. However, if
you must remove or replace the entire Combustion Blower, a new blower flange gasket (Part # PUCBG)
should be added between the blower flange and the steel exhaust tube.
Soot and Fly ash: Formation and Need for Removal – The products of combustion will contain
small particles of fly ash. The fly ash will collect in the exhaust venting system and restrict the flow
of flue gases. Incomplete combustion, such as occurs during startup, shutdown, or incorrect
operation of the room heater will lead to some soot formation which will collect in the exhaust
venting system. The exhaust venting system should be inspected at least once every year to
determine if cleaning is necessary.
 
I have the manual :)

It just doesn't mention anything about cleaning the heat exchanger tubes... guessing it's not set-up like that.

Also it doesn't put out much heat even after cleaning it :/

My house is only 1600 sq' 2 story 800' on each floor, and the stove is right in the middle of the house.

From what I've been reading it should heat it very easily! :/
 
Maybe put the stove model in the title so others with the same stove can chime in.

My PDVC doesn't have tubes. I'll assume your stove doesn't either.

But maybe something else is going on, cause it should heat your house if it has insulation in it.
 
it doesnt have tubes like you're thinking. clean and scrape the inside really well. remove the baffle plate on the back wall (when facing towards the front of the stove. scrape and vac in there really well. next rig up a cut legnth of garden hose to your shop vac. use that to really get in there. get all the small hard to get to spots and the path to the combustion blower.

theres also the leaf blower method.

if its still not blowing hot maybe there is some other issue. if the settings were out of wack from the factory, maybe its program is out of wack too? i forget how to check the program of the control board. it'll be either A B C or D. its been posted on if you search the forums. twice i had to reset my program after long power outages or being unplugged for summer where the program reverted back to "A".
 
Yeah I already cleaned it with a 1/2" hose adapted to my ash vac.
talked to Mike today @ Englander, found the little thermostat wire (jumper) not fully connected. Also found it set up for (d) not "c" like recommended.

Now it's all cleaned up again and tuned in....

I just started it.... patiently waiting to see what happens ;)
 
CWR said:
I'm not sure, but I think Englander uses tubes on all their stoves.....

Nope, not true. I can't speak for the other models, but my 10-cpm has the flat plate type heat exchanger.
 
Yeeee Haaaaaa!!!!!

It's getting HOT in here!!! :D

A big Thanks to Mike from Englander Stoves!

It was hard to get this pic because the window on the door was soooo bright :)

This thermometer is a magnetic... stuck to the top of the door.
 

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Radguy said:
Yeah I already cleaned it with a 1/2" hose adapted to my ash vac.
talked to Mike today @ Englander, found the little thermostat wire (jumper) not fully connected. Also found it set up for (d) not "c" like recommended.

Now it's all cleaned up again and tuned in....

I just started it.... patiently waiting to see what happens ;)



I thought we are supposed to run in d mode not c ?
 
I say this again...Mike and Englander are second to none when it comes to customer service. Mike, I hope you get something extra from your company because you have single handedly increased sales and the reputation of England Stove Works. If and when my little beastie dies or is relocated, I will put Englander on my short list. Nice going Mike!

Chan
 
chrisasst said:
Radguy said:
Yeah I already cleaned it with a 1/2" hose adapted to my ash vac.
talked to Mike today @ Englander, found the little thermostat wire (jumper) not fully connected. Also found it set up for (d) not "c" like recommended.

Now it's all cleaned up again and tuned in....

I just started it.... patiently waiting to see what happens ;)



I thought we are supposed to run in d mode not c ?

pdvc's run in d
 
CWR said:
I say this again...Mike and Englander are second to none when it comes to customer service. Mike, I hope you get something extra from your company because you have single handedly increased sales and the reputation of England Stove Works. If and when my little beastie dies or is relocated, I will put Englander on my short list. Nice going Mike!

Chan

I, too, am quite impressed. Englander will be on my short list for a future purchase, and I recommend them to people interested in pellet stoves (friends and acquaintances). A friend of ours had a similar great experience with customer service, too, so it seems to be pretty common for Englander. Way to go!
 
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