Help: M55 Auger Motor Loose?

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M55_Feller

New Member
Dec 22, 2018
11
USA
I had a pellet feed problem, and after emptying hopper and vacuuming out fines I discovered the auger motor itself actually wiggles around.

I also checked out the auger movement and noticed the base of the auger shifts around while it's rotating, with small movements left-right, or to put it differently, "perpendicular" to the auger shaft. I also discovered a pile of fines had "leaked" out of the bottom of the auger and settled underneath the auger motor.

Granted I've never previously owned an M55 or other pellet stove but this doesn't appear to be correct.

Finally it looks like there's something like a "collar" where the auger enters the hopper, and that collar is sitting about 1/4" below the hole which permits the auger to enter the hopper. If I had to guess I'd suppose this is creating a gap or opening through which the fines have leaked.

Sorry for the bad focus in the photo, but it's a fiddly shot and I didn't have enough hands:

2020__stove_loose_motor.jpg



Since I'm looking at this problem for the first time, I don't know from experience which parts are supposed to "float" and which should be securely mounted, etc., and I also can't immediately spot a loose bolt or spot where I should be looking for a missing bolt [such as for mounting the motor more securely]. In short I can't "see" the source of the problem.

Can someone familiar with auger assemblies (and especially if someone knows M55's) please tip me on where to start looking for corrective action?
 
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It has a threaded nut on the one side by the looks of it.
AAC1B3B9-B6D5-4193-9855-44ACAD3F9368.png
 
It has a threaded nut on the one side by the looks of it.

Thanks, I tried a bunch more searching and came up with assembly that looks a little different for the Enviro m55; or at least I think M55 uses the 50-1658. Still can't quite see how that assembly fits together, which I hoped to understand so I could better understand exactly what broke.


 
The plate bolts to the bottom of the hopper
You can see the bolts in your photo
Remove auger motor. Remove bolts.
Pull plate-bushing and auger out as am assembly
Replace bushing and plate assembly install auger
into bushing reinstall assembly. Reinstall auger motor
easypeasy
 
The bushing is a press-fit with a collar on the top side
The one from Friendly Fires is Canadian
The price is in Canadian Dollars so
in conversion about a 1/3 less
That's just over 50 dollars US
One of there store's is just down the road from me
 
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The bushing is a press-fit with a collar on the top side
The one from Friendly Fires is Canadian
The price is in Canadian Dollars so
in conversion about a 1/3 less
That's just over 50 dollars US
One of there store's is just down the road from me


@johneh, thank you for your posts!

I have forecast of 19 F degrees overnight tonight and this machine is the sole heat source.

Replacing the combined plate-bushing assembly, as one part, does look easy. Obviously no part tonight.

Doesn't sound very encouraging that temporary repair of the failed part could be managed (such as, for heat tonight).
 
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I have the auger out. It looks like corrosion's fused the bushing onto the end of the auger; it will not budge with unassisted hand torque. And I see no signs of the collar at the top of the brass bushing.

Now at this stage am wondering if I can remove the bushing and also get the auger cleaned up enough to continue forward with the same auger (budget for parts is dropped to an extreme low, right now.)

2020_brass_fused-smallercrop.png
 
If you take a hacksaw blade and cut on a diagonal it may be able to spread enough to remove the bushing. Then you can polish up the auger shaft and reinstall. But your going to need to shim up the bushing to keep it in the plate while it turns. Maybe some washers between the collar and bushing. Im not sure but the bushing and plate are what actually hold the auger shaft in the stove.
F69C5863-1817-44FF-812A-20BC71DD38FB.png
 
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With the bushing being stuck the top collar
has been worn away. The old bushing should
come off fairly easily. It is a soft brass where the
auger is hard steel. Clean the auger shaft with
emery paper. As long as there are no deep scores,
it should be usable. Just make sure the auger
turn very easily in the bushing (Oil )
Sorry no quick fix for that old bushing it is toast
 
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With the bushing being stuck the top collar
has been worn away. The old bushing should
come off fairly easily. It is a soft brass where the
auger is hard steel. Clean the auger shaft with
emery paper. As long as there are no deep scores,
it should be usable. Just make sure the auger
turn very easily in the bushing (Oil )
Sorry no quick fix for that old bushing it is toast


If you take a hacksaw blade and cut on a diagonal it may be able to spread enough to remove the bushing. Then you can polish up the auger shaft and reinstall. But your going to need to shim up the bushing to keep it in the plate while it turns. Maybe some washers between the collar and bushing. Im not sure but the bushing and plate are what actually hold the auger shaft in the stove.View attachment 255637

@Ssyko that worked nicely to get it removed, thank you!
 
With the bushing being stuck the top collar
has been worn away. The old bushing should
come off fairly easily. It is a soft brass where the
auger is hard steel. Clean the auger shaft with
emery paper. As long as there are no deep scores,
it should be usable. Just make sure the auger
turn very easily in the bushing (Oil )
Sorry no quick fix for that old bushing it is toast

@johneh, thanks for the words of advice.
I have that bushing off and so far looks like the auger will be ok.