Help me warm up my shop.

[clisbyclark]

I was given a US Stove circulator type stove that I repainted and put new firebrick in. I installed my black pipe and stainless chimney in the shop and was all set for pure comfort this winter. The only problem is it doesn't seem to be heating the shop all that well. Here are the particulars:

Shop size: 24x36 insulated walls-open ceiling (for storage). 6/12 pitch roof.
Wood: mix of sweet gum and oak-cut last winter
Two ceiling fans in the rafters set to blow up

I'm wondering if I should build an enclosure to seal off the chimney hole through the roof so heat won't escape up thru the flashing vents?

I also have a ridge vent cut in the top of the roof. Should I cover those holes with insulation or other products in the winter?

The stove has a blower option available. Should I look into one of those?

I know the easy answer will be to install an insulated ceiling but I really need the open storage space. I've seen much larger buildings heated with only a stove and that's why I'm a little puzzled here.

Thanks for your help!

 

[DanCorcoran]

I don't know, but my guess is that most of your heat is going out the ridge vent, drawing in a nice draft of cold air from lower down in the shop.

P.S. Unless you're in the witness protection program, you can be more specific than "USA" for your location.

 

[clisbyclark]

Sorry about that, chief. Profile is updated. Thanks for the advice on the ridge vent. Any idea how to plug it off. The vent gap is a continuous run about 3 inches wide down the entire 36 feet of ridge. I'm thinking about covering the gap w/ fiberglass insulation then covering that with 1/4 ply to let the air flow better.Thanks

 

[oldspark]

Do you think it is a good idea to cover up the ridge vent, my shop has a ridge vent and not sure I want to cover it up.

 

[48rob]

It isn't a good idea to plug up the ridge vent.

What we do as an easy and inexpensive ceiling in garages is install 1/2" Celotex foil backed insulation.

Quick and easy to put up, very light, and it will support the weight of fiberglass or blown insulation if you choose to add more down the road.
An added benefit is that it will make the shop MUCH brighter, by reflecting the available light.

Once you have a ceiling installed, the space you need to heat will be much smaller, and you'll be far more comfortable in both winter and summer.
I'm not a math expert, but I'd guess that the savings in wood burned would pay for the ceiling/insulation in short order.

Rob

 

[fishingpol]

This thread is headed for the DIY room. What about removing the length of ridge vent on the roof? Cover most of it up with tar paper and shingles. Leave an area in the middle of the ridge line and install a cupola with louvers. A cupola can be made with vinyl trim boards and plywood roof with shingles. Aluminum pre-made louvers can be fixed on four sides of it. In the winter plug up the cupola from inside with a batt of insulation or two and remove in the spring. I agree some sort of insulation should be installed to keep the heat in. Right now you basically have a super chimney letting out all the heat. I've seen metal warehouse buildings with some sort of insulation blanket on the inside walls to give some r-value. Maybe staple some of that up. The roof sheathing will let heat out without it.

 

[Dune]

Also, being in Georgia, you will find the shop to be MUCH cooler in the summer if you have an insulated ceiling under the roof. Could you install a gable mounted door for storage/access?

 

[DanCorcoran]

I don't see a problem with plugging the ridge vent in winter, but it would really make the shop much warmer in summer (bad in Georgia). I understand that keeping the ceiling open for storage space is important. That suggests that you come up with a clever way of plugging the ridge vent in winter, in such a way that it can be easily unplugged for summer. If the ridge vent is easily accessible, maybe you could just staple some strips of insulation up there in winter, and remove the staples in summer...

 

[oldspark]

You need the vents for moisture control in the winter.

 

[PapaDave]

If he gets cold enough weather, the heat being held in the building envelope ( by plugging or removing the ridge vent) will cause snow melt on the roof, which will then refreeze at the eaves. Ice dams. Bad. Had it happen to me 2 winters ago, before I got the rafter spaces insulated.
It's a long story.
Consider framing in a large stairwell to the attic that can be closed off, and insulating the ceiling. Make sure you put baffles in the eaves over the wall plates for air flow.

 

[DanCorcoran]

I grew up in Atlanta. Snow buildup and ice dams are not a problem east of Atlanta. Moisture control? Sounds like his two ceiling fans in the rafters might take care of that, but if there's a problem, he can always open a small section of the ridge vent to provide minimal airflow.

 

[oldspark]

Dont know how much the moisture problem is in Atlanta but if you do not allow for the moist air that gets past the vapor barrier to escape it can lead to problems as is the case for the vents in your house.

 

[PapaDave]

I grew up in Atlanta. Snow buildup and ice dams are not a problem east of Atlanta. Moisture control? Sounds like his two ceiling fans in the rafters might take care of that, but if there's a problem, he can always open a small section of the ridge vent to provide minimal airflow.

Ah, much different than up here.