How do you clean insert with no by pass?

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Dmitry

Minister of Fire
Oct 4, 2014
1,146
CT
Hi , I'm in a process of installing Free Standing Stove (Osburn 2400) in existing fireplace in my basement . It;s going to be almost like insert. The liner is going to be connected all the way in a back. Not a lot of space to work around. Wondering how i'm going to clean it. I have insert with bypass upstairs and cleaning it is a breeze . Just opening bypass and sweeping whatever falls. How do you clean insert with no bypass and tight space around it?
 
I brush my insert from the bottom, through the stove. I don't even have to remove any tubes. I have the system of 3' poly pipe (like well or sprinkler pipe) sections that snap into one another...don't remember name. Making the 90 deg bend and getting the brush started is the hardest part. With your big stove, that shouldn't be a problem (mine 2.3 ft3 vs your 3.4 ft3. I usually have a shop vac sucking in the insert with pipe in exhaust going out a window. Not even sure the vacuum is really necessary.
 
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Yeah, I forgot about the baffle, but mine is in two pieces and they angle out without taking out a tube. That stove is pretty huge. Sounds like it'll be a good heater.
 
Hi , I'm in a process of installing Free Standing Stove (Osburn 2400) in existing fireplace in my basement . It;s going to be almost like insert. The liner is going to be connected all the way in a back. Not a lot of space to work around. Wondering how i'm going to clean it. I have insert with bypass upstairs and cleaning it is a breeze . Just opening bypass and sweeping whatever falls. How do you clean insert with no bypass and tight space around it?
Are you planning on sticking the stove inside the fireplace?
 

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Yeah , pretty tight fit.
Doing that is really going to hurt the heatoutput of the stove. The heat radiated off the stove will just go into that masonry structure. Is it on an outside wall?
 
I realize that and this is why i'm trying to remove as much brick from inside of the chimney to make room for liner and not to shove the stove all the way. The good thing, this is not outside wall, but its basement with uninsulated floor, so lot of heat will be lost. Hopefully blower will help. it will be supplemental part time heater. Didn't really need it but couldn't pass $600 deal for almost new stove. Previous owner said he is going back to old stove, because this one not producing enough heat. I guess he needed to dry his wood somewhat more . :)
 
I realize that and this is why i'm trying to remove as much brick from inside of the chimney to make room for liner and not to shove the stove all the way. The good thing, this is not outside wall, but its basement with uninsulated floor, so lot of heat will be lost. Hopefully blower will help. it will be supplemental part time heater. Didn't really need it but couldn't pass $600 deal for almost new stove. Previous owner said he is going back to old stove, because this one not producing enough heat. I guess he needed to dry his wood somewhat more . :)
Well since it is interior the heat wont be lost it will just take a while to feel allot
 
I'm having trouble with determining if this wood mantel can be above the stove.
Looks like you notched the lintel to get the flue collar to fit under. Was there steel flat stock under the bricks, across the top of the fireplace opening? What did you do about that? I'm wondering since I need a little more lintel height if I want to fit a different stove....
Looks like they don't have mantel clearance requirements listed, since it's a free-standing stove. Here are the insert requirements. I don't know if they would be safe for the free-standing version...
https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/2185/45111a_05-07-2018.pdf
 
Looks like you notched the lintel to get the flue collar to fit under. Was there steel flat stock under the bricks, across the top of the fireplace opening? What did you do about that? I'm wondering since I need a little more lintel height if I want to fit a different stove....
Looks like they don't have mantel clearance requirements listed, since it's a free-standing stove. Here are the insert requirements. I don't know if they would be safe for the free-standing version...
https://sbiweb.blob.core.windows.net/media/2185/45111a_05-07-2018.pdf
Thanks , didn't think about checking inserts specs . Actually , I didn't remove this plate . I had to get rid of bottom brick part if insert to make it fit. O cut opening in smoke shelf , though. Going to try to remove some brick from actual chimney to make space for liner.
 

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I realize that and this is why i'm trying to remove as much brick from inside of the chimney to make room for liner and not to shove the stove all the way. The good thing, this is not outside wall, but its basement with uninsulated floor, so lot of heat will be lost. Hopefully blower will help. it will be supplemental part time heater. Didn't really need it but couldn't pass $600 deal for almost new stove. Previous owner said he is going back to old stove, because this one not producing enough heat. I guess he needed to dry his wood somewhat more . :)

To the OP I did something similar with my wood stove. I found that if you insulate the walls of the fireplace with rock wool, use a block-off plate and insulate above the block-off plate, and then cover or shield the rock wool with a reflective material (I used 20' wide aluminum flashing) it does make a noticeable difference in the amount of heat you can get from a stove installed in a fireplace. Also having angled baffles above the stove (angling up from the back of the top of the stove to the front of the fireplace lintel helps with drawing convective heat up out of the fireplace.
 
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