How to properly fell a tree

[hareball]

It looks like I'll have 2 guys to help me with getting my share of the wood in the states firewood program and I'd like to know how to properly take a dead standing tree down. I will not need to identify any tree's as they are all premarked but what should I look at first? I'm very excited to go do this. This program usually starts around November in most forests and next season I hope to harvest what I can. Living on disability is no fun and $20 a cord is a dream!!

 

[smokinj]

ok here it goes take your wedge out first 25-30 percent of the tree then a back cut 1-2 in. over the top of the wedge or face cut. all should be level and there is a lot more going on but I am not looking at the tree your cutting.


http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=5&vt=5&vb=0&id=5

 

[hareball]

Thanks Jay! I'll watch that video a few more times and let it sink in. One of my friends has done it before and he is all about safety.

A few years back I watched my ex bro in law drop one but he was in Vermont and it was like second nature. He said "Wanna go pay the taxes with me?" I said sure. He started gassing up his chainsaw and I'm thinking did he forget we are going to pay the taxes??? He walked up to a tree, down it came and we loaded a few 8' sections in the truck. Off to the mill where he sold them and then we paid the taxes!
What can't wood do?!?

 

[bogydave]

Another good link on tree falling
http://forestry.about.com/gi/o.htm?.../etools/logging/manual/felling/cuts/cuts.html

 

[ansehnlich1]

Uh, dangerous business felling trees, especially standing dead. All sort and manner of unforseen happenings can occur. Barberchair. Hollow inside. Twisting. Sliding off trunk. The dreaded widowmakers. You name it.

It ain't for beginners, but hey, have at it if you feel lucky.

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/logging/manual/felling/felling.html

 

[smokinj]

Thanks Jay! I'll watch that video a few more times and let it sink in. One of my friends has done it before and he is all about safety.

A few years back I watched my ex bro in law drop one but he was in Vermont and it was like second nature. He said "Wanna go pay the taxes with me?" I said sure. He started gassing up his chainsaw and I'm thinking did he forget we are going to pay the taxes??? He walked up to a tree, down it came and we loaded a few 8' sections in the truck. Off to the mill where he sold them and then we paid the taxes!
What can't wood do?!?

yep money can grow on trees

 

[hareball]

Thanks for the links guys. I will study them well. There is still a few weeks before I go so there is still time for someone to join me.

 

[ansehnlich1]

Thanks for the links guys. I will study them well. There is still a few weeks before I go so there is still time for someone to join me.

here's another good site. There are numerous things to consider. Assuming you are not alone, and you are in a safe area, and the tree has no upper limbs that can fall and kill you, and the top of the tree is solid and doesn't snap and come down on you, and you have proper chainsaw knowledge, and safety gear, you will want to concentrate on making the proper notch and back cuts to drop the tree....

http://www2.worksafebc.com/Portals/Forestry/FallingAndBucking.asp

 

[smokinj]

Thanks for the links guys. I will study them well. There is still a few weeks before I go so there is still time for someone to join me.

down load any stihl saw manual there is good info there as well

 

[hareball]

I'm thinking I should take more time to prepare for this. It's just frustrating getting beat/short on wood delivery and wood being always less than seasoned. I just won't be happy until the fence line around the back yard is lined with stacks of firewood.
I'm not going to even think about getting a newer epa stove for my empty second hearth until I have plenty in reserve and ready to burn.

I put a call into my firewood guy for a price on a cord of rounds. I'll start with splitting and work my way up the ladder. Next step will be ordering in 6 foot lengths and start using a chainsaw, then maybe by next winter I'll be able to take advantage of the program.

Please feel free to keep the advice coming, more advice on the many things that can go wrong and how to put yourself in the safest spot.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I see where y'all were going with it and I see your points

 

[smokinj]

I'm thinking I should take more time to prepare for this. It's just frustrating getting beat/short on wood delivery and wood being always less than seasoned. I just won't be happy until the fence line around the back yard is lined with stacks of firewood.
I'm not going to even think about getting a newer epa stove for my empty second hearth until I have plenty in reserve and ready to burn.

I put a call into my firewood guy for a price on a cord of rounds. I'll start with splitting and work my way up the ladder. Next step will be ordering in 6 foot lengths and start using a chainsaw, then maybe by next winter I'll be able to take advantage of the program.

Please feel free to keep the advice coming, more advice on the many things that can go wrong and how to put yourself in the safest spot.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I see where y'all were going with it and I see your points

your on the right track now its hard to tell someone how two fell a tree. its can be as simple as 3 cuts but a lot rides on them 3 cuts and every tree is a little different.

 

[ansehnlich1]

I'm thinking I should take more time to prepare for this. It's just frustrating getting beat/short on wood delivery and wood being always less than seasoned. I just won't be happy until the fence line around the back yard is lined with stacks of firewood.
I'm not going to even think about getting a newer epa stove for my empty second hearth until I have plenty in reserve and ready to burn.

I put a call into my firewood guy for a price on a cord of rounds. I'll start with splitting and work my way up the ladder. Next step will be ordering in 6 foot lengths and start using a chainsaw, then maybe by next winter I'll be able to take advantage of the program.

Please feel free to keep the advice coming, more advice on the many things that can go wrong and how to put yourself in the safest spot.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I see where y'all were going with it and I see your points

Hey, Hey! A humble man can live a long and happy life! Nice to see this post from you.

I've felled dozens of trees. What I suggest is that you go out with somebody with experience and spend some time with 'em as they drop a few trees. If you get some time in using a chainsaw, then go cut a couple down, start with small ones, you know, 6 inch diameter or less. Always be aware of what's above you if you decide to fell a tree.

Also, there are countless stories of a tree falling, and then hitting a branch from a different tree, and that branch snapping off and flying over to hit the logger. Man, it's dangerous work, no way to get around that.

Check out arboristsite.com. Lots of arborists with lots of experience over there.

See if you have any local saw mills around that you could establish a relationship with and get deliveries of log length. That what I do. Each year I get 5 cord of log length....you see, when it's already down, it ain't near as dangerous

 

[Flatbedford]

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43054/

 

[wendell]

Find a "Game of Logging" class in your area and take it. It will be the best money you ever spend.

http://www.gameoflogging.com/

They don't do a good job of keeping their schedule up to date online so you may need to give them a call.

 

[Flatbedford]

I have looked into that. The problem is that they never come very close to the big city where most people pay somebody else to run the saw.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

sounds like you scared hareball away. It really is not very tough unless you get a scary tree, just avoid those. Start small and look at which way the tree is naturally leaning (I find with a little study almost every tree has a natural lean, or more branches to a side, if is perfectly straight then it will fall just about any way you want, one that is leaning a ton can get the barber chair so you have to be careful with those) and has a clear fall line. Three cuts and you are in business. Most guys angle cut down, straight cut to meet the angle. You put the wedge (hinge) where you want it to fall. Straight cut at the bottom of the hinge or an inch or two above. Keep a clear line to exit. When you hear it cracking and popping start your exit. I have found if it is going to fall the wrong way my blade will get pinched. They say most accidents occur after the tree is down.

I have only one tree on my property that scares the crap out of me. It is half dead and I would like to get it down, a huge oak. The problem is that it has widow makers hanging all over it (huge dead branches) I keep hoping nature will take its course someday.

 

[smokinj]

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43054/

my favorite....bar none

 

[hareball]

Thanks for all the tips and links guys! I will be ready to start small by November. In the meantime I'm gonna order that book and continue reading the links and work on getting the equipment needed. I found some of my Fathers old wedges but will keep them for splitting and get the newer ones and some other things.

 

[Wood Duck]

Hareball,
I would start by choosing a smallish tree that has a slight lean to it, so you know which way it is likely to fall. Make sure you have a clear spot to drop it, and a clear path to move away once it starts to go, and try to drop it exactly where it wants to fall. Take your time looking at the tree, and as you make your back cut (the cut that is going to allow the tree to topple) proceed slowly and watch the tree and your saw very carefully. Take it slowly. I have felled a bunch of trees, but there are still plenty that I won't tackle because they are rotten, leaning the wrong way, etc.