How to secure flue to prevent turning?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

48rob

Feeling the Heat
Oct 11, 2010
308
Illinois
My problem is when I go on the roof to remove the cap so I can run the brush through for cleaning, the pipe turns, making it very hard to get the cap off.

Each time I clean the flue, I clean the cap, especially the area where the two lock together, as the creosote seems to build up there, but alas, each time it gets "glued" again.

The system is designed to sit cradled in the ceiling box, then go up through the roof.
Unless I missed a step in the install directions, the only thing preventing the pipe from turning is the caulk that seals the pipe to the collar (which has failed from the pressure exerted trying to free the cap.)

Is there a way to secure the pipe?

Thanks.

Rob
 
What type of pipe is this? Often the mfg. sells locking rings for the pipe. In lieu of that I would think that you could use a 1/2" #8, stainless sheet metal screw to secure the sections together. One screw per joint will be enough.
 
48rob said:
My problem is when I go on the roof to remove the cap so I can run the brush through for cleaning, the pipe turns, making it very hard to get the cap off.

Each time I clean the flue, I clean the cap, especially the area where the two lock together, as the creosote seems to build up there, but alas, each time it gets "glued" again.

The system is designed to sit cradled in the ceiling box, then go up through the roof.
Unless I missed a step in the install directions, the only thing preventing the pipe from turning is the caulk that seals the pipe to the collar (which has failed from the pressure exerted trying to free the cap.)

Is there a way to secure the pipe?

Thanks.

Rob

Rob,
Have you considered a thin film of never-seize where the pipe locks together? This may help reduce the creosote bonding that is happening..

Ray
 
A brace will help, but I think that roof braces are not required until the pipe height exceeds 5ft over the penetration of the roof.
 
I think you are correct in the 5ft thing being the requierment. here in northern nh we have huge snow loads and are sandwiched between two mountains so we have excessive winds so we almost always recomend using use them on anything over 3 feet. I forget that not everybody lives next door
 
Rob,
Have you considered a thin film of never-seize where the pipe locks together? This may help reduce the creosote bonding that is happening..

Ray

Ray,

No, I hadn't, but it sounds like a great idea that I'll be trying!

Thank you!

Rob
 
48rob said:
Rob,
Have you considered a thin film of never-seize where the pipe locks together? This may help reduce the creosote bonding that is happening..

Ray

Ray,

No, I hadn't, but it sounds like a great idea that I'll be trying!

Thank you!

Rob

You're welcome! I am thinking anything that would inhibit the bond (silicone grease not rubber another idea) would help.. Good luck let us know if it helps..

Ray
 
What type of pipe is this? Often the mfg. sells locking rings for the pipe. In lieu of that I would think that you could use a 1/2†#8, stainless sheet metal screw to secure the sections together. One screw per joint will be enough.


I can't remember the brand...got it at Menards.
Double wall inside, stainless insulated for attic and above the roof.

I have a locking band on the two stainless pieces, and it works well.
The problem lies with the connection between the stainless and double wall pipe.

The ceiling ring/attic box is installed, then the stainless sits cradled in that box.
The interior double wall pipe uses an adaptor that is a twist lock into the stainless to tie the two together.
When I try to remove the cap, the entire pipe down to that support box turns, ultimately "un locking" the connection.

Rob
 
I'd just run a screw through the point where the class A is supported by the box then. One will do it.
 
If that doesn't work out you could always check out Sears for two rubber "strap" type wrenches - one to push one to pull on the upper section and the one below it. They have gotten me out of a couple of unusual big stuck filter type things.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.