How to sweep chimney with block off plate?

[cgeiger]

Ok - so I know I'm not the only one with this problem. Here's the short version - in the process of installing a new Jotul Oslo into existing masonry chimney (replacing previous 80s VC Resolute). Chimney drafts with no wind. With wind and no fire, the chimney drafts so hard it feels like there's a breeze in the room (damper closed, pre block off plate). So now that I'm permanently affixing my block off plate and using SS flex up to the first chimney tile my question is this:

How do I sweep it?

If I cement the plate to the firebox top (not sure what it's called) and I cement the liner to the plate then all the sweepings will fall on top of the plate and get trapped - maybe a few will slide down the flex liner and stop at the elbow into the stove.

 

[oconnor]

Best way - line all the way to the top.

Otherwise, you really need a removable vice permanent block off plate. The problem you describe with the sweepings is exactly what will happen in a chimney fire, except they will be on fire. The discussion I read in a set of NFPA minutes where the idea of requiring complete lining of the flue was that complete lining of the flue meant owners were less likely to completly dismantle the liner/plate/stove each year for proper cleaning, therefore they (those captured in the minutes) felt that a full liner job was a latent hazard due to lack of maintenace.

The inverse is that you will need to pull the liner section and plate yearly to clean it.

 

[oconnor]

I found the discussion I was looking for. I copied it from here: http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/PDF/ROP/211-F2002-ROC.pdf

This is the rebuttal to a proposal to make lining the flue all the way to the top a mandatory part of the code, which was defeated. In the end - partial liner equals annual complete dismantling.

SUBSTANTIATION: Since the inception of the fireplace insert and hearth stove, the standard operating procedure to maintain and clean the appliance and chimney has been to disassemble the unit from the fireplace and remove the existing pipe. This procedure is not done because it is easy, but because it has been and still is the best way. By utilizing this procedure it allows the servicing technician to fully inspect the integrity and condition of the appliance while also checking for defects in the chimney’s structural integrity. At issue here is whether lining to the top creates a safer system and an easier system to clean. From a safety standpoint, if you are speaking of pre-1988 appliances, the theory is well founded. Today’s modern, high-tech, clean-burning appliances no longer spew large amounts of unburned gases into the vent system, making the need for complete liners negligible. If lining to the top makes it easier to clean, then by doing so we definitely compromise the consumer’s safety. No longer will we need to remove the unit, and in doing so will no longer have the opportunity to correctly inspect the system, realizing potential problems
only when it is too late. We again suggest that the issue of whether or not to line be left up to the specifications of the appliance manufacturer and the hearth professional in the field.

Regardless of what the NFPA discusses - I will line to the top, 'cause I'm Canadian, and here, it is required by code - I believe it is a better regulation here IMHO

 

[Stevebass4]

i remove everything once a year and sweep my chimney (ie the insert, direct connect, and the block off plate) maybe takes me two hours

 

[branchburner]

I suppose with a direct connect you could have a loose-fitting block-off plate and then use a top-sealing damper to cut down on heat loss when the stove is not in use. But I imagine that would cake right up with creosote and need frequent cleaning.

 

[oconnor]

The direct connect pics I've seen in stove manuals show a two piece clamp style setup that replaces the damper. You definately would not want it loose, as creosote falling into the fireplace behind the surround would be way worse than having to seal it up annually - but I wouldn't "do" a direct connect.

 

[Stevebass4]

The direct connect pics I've seen in stove manuals show a two piece clamp style setup that replaces the damper.

that's exactly what i have for my damper plate- two pieces that are clamped in

 

[cgeiger]

Do you have any pics or a link to the clamped in style plate? I'm pretty close to reinstalling mine but am open to modifying if the design is simple enough.

 

[Stevebass4]