I ended up using Logstor pipe

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goosegunner

Minister of Fire
Oct 15, 2009
1,469
WI
I had a spray foamer willing to spray my pex in the trench this week But I now have 115' of Logstor in the ground.

Reasons.

Trench was going to be 6' deep for water line, all sand here
Didn't want to leave trench open waiting for foamer, He could only do it on Mondays or Tuesdays
Nervous about backfill settling under spray foam
Used a riding compactor to compact building site

At this point I am glad to have it in the ground and covered up. It is supposed to rain here monday and Tuesday so I would have had a problem.

My dad and I were able to core two 6" holes in garage and install these runs 115' to building site. Started at 7:30 am and done by 5pm.

1" water line with frost free hydrant
Logstor
Backfilled to 3' and compacted
2" conduit with power supply
two 1-1/2" empty electrical conduits
covered back to grade


Hopefully it will provide a long term low heat loss solution.


gg
 
Good choice. Can't go wronge with logstor
 
A big congrats GG. Great decision given your circumstances. I know how good it feels to have it done AND done right. As we'd say down here.... I feel right proud fer ya.
 
Tennman said:
A big congrats GG. Great decision given your circumstances. I know how good it feels to have it done AND done right. As we'd say down here.... I feel right proud fer ya.

Thanks, now to make some decisions about which boiler....

gg
 
Where did you get this from?
 
Como said:
Where did you get this from?

Logstor?

I can get you the number if you want.

I got it from a place in Pestigo, WI for $12/ foot cut to order. I ordered 130' because I wanted to make darn sure I had enough. Could have got by with 114'.

I order it on Tuesday afternoon, shipped out wednesday and I got it at 9:30 am on Friday. Stretched it in the Sun and dropped it in the trench by 2pm.

Honestly It was not that big of deal to work with. I think it did help that my trench was deep so I could let the radius be big into the boiler room. The other end I stubbed through the frost wall about 1'. My dad and I did it ourselves. We even had to drag it across the yard about 75 yards. Did it by hand, didn't even start the polaris.

gg
 
I was just wondering how flexible it is, what size tubing did you need and how sharp where your curves?
 
Not very flexible, But it was 75 and sunny so it straightened out nice. It also helped that we we 6' down for most of it so the trench was fairly wide, almost 3' at the bottom.

I went with the 32mm. I could always use more flow, but I have been using 140 of 1" pex, which is about 7/8" ID. The Logstor ended up 115' and it is Just a hair over 1" ID.

Just before the end of my trench we ramp it up and ran the logstor up that. I would guess I had a 5' radius. You can bend it more but it seems to kink the jacket a little.


Honestly I am very happy I spent the extra money on the tubing. They are spreading the topsoil it is going to rain today and tomorrow. I would have been screwed if the foamer was coming today.

It went much better than I thought considering what you read about it here.

gg




Como said:
I was just wondering how flexible it is, what size tubing did you need and how sharp where your curves?
 
Many thanks, so looks like I would need a couple of right angles to go down into the trench and get into the building.
 
Como said:
Many thanks, so looks like I would need a couple of right angles to go down into the trench and get into the building.

Not sure what you mean?

I cored through my frost wall with a 6" bit. I did that just above the footing. If you aren't going to put it 6' down you can come out straight into the trench. I ramped the dirt from the hole to the bottom of the trench so mine had a slight radius.

The other end comes up out of the ground where my new building is going.


Not sure where you live but the place I got it shipped mine for $60 dollars.

gg
 
Como - logstore is continuous roll pipe and not condusive to install "right angles" all bends must be radius bends within the limits of the pipe. The only way to do a right angle would be to terminate the pipe and connectorize it , If you HAVE to do this for some reason make sure you have access to get to and work on the connectors and do not bury them.
 
I am not sure I understand.

So we have a boiler room outside and have to go down and then across to the building to be heated and then up to in my case the back up boiler. I also have a root cellar to go around. So how do you go down and get level and come back up again?
 
Como said:
I am not sure I understand.

So we have a boiler room outside and have to go down and then across to the building to be heated and then up to in my case the back up boiler. I also have a root cellar to go around. So how do you go down and get level and come back up again?


You would just have to plan your route. I would lay it out with a garden hose before you dig to see what kind of arc you can get around your root cellar.

They say you can bend it in a 3' radius, you probably can if it is warm enough.Being deep with my trench I had a nice easy bend with mine into the boiler room.

The depth of your trench will effect where you start your bend when coming up.

I went deep because of the domestic water line. But also so I can leave and not have it freeze. I plan on having the boiler room heated with a small heater for freeze protection if I want to travel in the winter. My garage is also heated by propane if I want.

gg
 
I think I have it.

You dropped vertically into your trench with a more than 3ft radius. And likewise when you came up.

I am going to run with a Glycol mix in the distribution system as added insurance so the only advantage I can see for extra depth is maybe a bit more insulation from the surrounding earth, this seems marginal.

I have seen people use the electric option to provide protection for extended travels. I do have people around but it would be nice to have that added protection. I thought it might be better to heat the Garn and water in it rather than the building? An added thought but you would need to run the pump to keep water circulating through the heat exchanger. I will also have Propane to stop the building being heated from freezing.
 
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