Inherited Jotul 8 Help!

[cosbo16]

I just rented a house with a Jotul wood burning stove. It has an "8" on the side so I downloaded the manual for the series 8. I cannot locate a removable handle or the bypass damper that the manual mentions. I assume the draft is the circle on the front.

I've been basically burning wood with the door open because I'm not sure how to operate this stove. Can someone please help?

By the way, it burns wood fine as far as the smoke and chimney operation. It's just burning really fast and I know there is a better way to use this.
Thanks,
Cosbo16

 

[begreen]

Greetings cosbo. Can you post a picture or post the exact model from the plate on the back of the stove? There were several variations of this stove including a catalytic model. If it has the draft wheel it's probably the standard model and will have no bypass damper. The others had a draft slider IIRC.

 

[cosbo16]

Here are couple of pics.

 

[begreen]

Looks like a draftwheel unit which would mean no bypass. How does it look inside? Are all the interior burnplates and the baffle in good condition? No warps or cracks?

 

[cosbo16]

I didn't see any cracks, I really can't say I was looking for warping.

The glass is pretty dirty. Not sure how to clean that.

Just wondering I guess how to use it best.
Build the fire and then shut the door and leave the little wheel open? Will that be enough air to keep the fire going? Any other adjustments to make. Is there anything that might move the heated air through the room?

I couldn't get to the back of the unit to see the information plate, btw.

Also, the manual said something about a door to empty the ashes, and I don't see anything like that either. Just scoop the ashes out the front?

Ok, well, as you can tell, not really very smart about all this, so any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

 

[killick]

Hi cosbo.Your #8 looks to be an older model, I would guess from the mid 80's. I have a #3 from 1985 which is the smaller sibling to the #8. The instructions you downloaded are for a later model. The only draft control on your model is the wheel on the front and yes this will provide air and control to burn with the door closed. This stove won't be as efficient as a newer model but will provide lots of heat if it is in good condition. The cast top should just lift off to provide access to the interior. There should be three baffle plates which set into grooves cast into the floor, back and sides. These tend to warp somewhat but mine are still in good shape after 24 years of burning. There should also be a type of baffle which deflects the fire from the rear flue. This is also cast and should just slide into place. There is no ash pan you remove ashes through the door when they build up. The removable top and the door and glass are gasketed so check these and replace if necessary. Our #3 also came with a screen so we can burn it as an open stove but this is not efficient. These were pretty bullet proof stoves so if the gaskets and plates are in good shape and there are no cracks you should be good to go. You have to watch the clearances on these older stoves. Mine is 34" from the rear if unshielded. For cleaning the glass try mixing a paste of wood ash and water and give it a rub.
Good luck.

Earl

Ps You need 18" of noncombustible pad on the floor in front.

 

[cosbo16]

Thanks for all your help.

It is shielded, and has all the parts you described. I successfully cleaned the glass with your suggested method. Makes me wonder what else I could clean with ashes

We are looking now for a suitable floor solution, as well as a way to get the warm air into the rest of house. I tried a small fan that I use in summer, but it makes a lot of noise on the mantel. Maybe I just need a smaller one.

The warmth generated is much more with the door closed and I'm using way less wood. This turned out to be much less complicated that I originally thought. That never happens to me

I welcome any other suggestions.

Thanks again.

Cosbo16

 

[killick]

Good to hear all is well.The air movement can be a challenge especially in older houses with lots of rooms,doors,etc.Low voltage fans set in the upper doorways may help some.

Earl

 

[begreen]

One minor note. Don't leave the air control wide open all the time. Try closing it down in stages according to the stove temperature and smoke coming from the chimney. You want to have it wide open at first. Then, once the fire is burning vigorously maybe halfway closed until the stovetop reaches about 450-500 °F, then close it down to around 10-25% open. The last setting should be so that the stove top stays at the desired temperature. If there is a lot of dark grey smoke coming from the chimney at this last stage you may have shut it down too soon. The remedy is to open it up a bit more until the wood is fully charred and has all the wood gas burnt out of it. This takes practice and will vary with the wood species being burned. Watch the stove top temps as a guide. And keep it under 650°F at the hottest until you really know the stove and the wood.

 

[firefighterjake]

Hi cosbo.Your #8 looks to be an older model, I would guess from the mid 80's. I have a #3 from 1985 which is the smaller sibling to the #8. The instructions you downloaded are for a later model. The only draft control on your model is the wheel on the front and yes this will provide air and control to burn with the door closed. This stove won't be as efficient as a newer model but will provide lots of heat if it is in good condition. The cast top should just lift off to provide access to the interior. There should be three baffle plates which set into grooves cast into the floor, back and sides. These tend to warp somewhat but mine are still in good shape after 24 years of burning. There should also be a type of baffle which deflects the fire from the rear flue. This is also cast and should just slide into place. There is no ash pan you remove ashes through the door when they build up. The removable top and the door and glass are gasketed so check these and replace if necessary. Our #3 also came with a screen so we can burn it as an open stove but this is not efficient. These were pretty bullet proof stoves so if the gaskets and plates are in good shape and there are no cracks you should be good to go. You have to watch the clearances on these older stoves. Mine is 34" from the rear if unshielded. For cleaning the glass try mixing a paste of wood ash and water and give it a rub.
Good luck.

Earl

Ps You need 18" of noncombustible pad on the floor in front.

I picked up on that as well . . . if you are burning in this stove this should be a priority . . . sparks, errant embers from reloads and hot coals that may attempt to roll free when cleaning out the ashes . . . yes . . . you will definitely want more floor protection.