installing pellet stove in basement

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joanne

New Member
Sep 16, 2008
5
Parry Sound,ON
We currently have a wood stove in our basement with a 6" chimney. We have bought a pellet stove to install in it's place but after reading the instructions on venting I'm concerned about how to vent because the manual say's we cannot have more than two 90's. I think we will have to use 3 90's. The pellet stove vents from the back, we would have to use a 90 then up another 90 to go out through the wall and another 90 to go up along the wall above the roof. Also how do we vent for the fresh air? Can anyone help? (It's a Napoleon pellet stove)
Thanks
 
Check your manual to see if the recommendation on the number of elbows is to increase the pipe size. Mine says that if I use more than 2 elbows or have more than 15' of run, then step up from 3" vent to 4" vent. It's all about creating a natural draft. If you are going from 3 or 4 " into a 6" chmney, you should be just fine.
 
I find the instuctions unclear. I have attached the page with the requirements. I have to go through the foundation 5 ft above the stove, out 3 ft and then up about 15 ft. Do we run the exhaust vent inside our ss chimney or adapt to it? Also what do we do about the ouside air vent.
 

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Is the wall you are going through combustionable?

I went to hearth and fireplace store to discuss my installation situation with the person there. I was lucky as they they were very friendly and helpful. They explained to me exactly what I would need and showed me some tips. My situation sounds similar to yours except that my chimney no longer exists. I installed in my basement, I came out the back of the stove, up 4-5' then used a wall thimble to go through the concrete/block foundation wall I also had extra length going through the wall due to a dry-stack stone wall on the inside against the block. Even though I did not need the heat shield around the 3" pipe, I still installed it.

This is only according to my manual, but if you are going into an existing vertical chimney you can run the pipe all the way up inside or you can adapt to it. The important thing is you want a good seal where you adapt into the existing pipe. Then they recommend that you simply have some sort of cap on the top to keep the rain out.

If I am mispeaking here, perhaps some of those folks with more experience can chime in.
 
I haven't installed mine yet, but I've had a similar recommendation. Skip the use of the old chimney, go up, for me roughly 5 feet inside the basement, then exit through the concrete block, with a horizontal cap right outside the basement wall. I welcome thoughts on this. I also would like opinions of the recommendation to skip using the thimble, to minimize the amount of blocks being cut into.
 
Well I'm confused by all this. Next winter I'll be putting my new pellet stove in my basement to replace my old woodstove and I want to run the pellet stove exhaust vent into my chimney. Looks like I'll need to have a 4" vent and a dealer also says I should use a liner inside my chimney. Is all this really necessary?
 
worcor,

I have a wall thimble for 3" pipe. I used duravent pro pipe. The thimble has about a 6" round tin on both ends. The 6" part is used as a heat shield when going through combustionable walls. My dealer told me that if you are going through block only or other non-combustionable walls, that you can knock off the 6" tin shields from the thimble and just run the 3" pipe through the thimble and wall. This would reduce the size of any hole you need to cut out.
 
I too have my stove in the basement. I rented a coring drill at Home Depot for $ 62.70 for 4 hours drilled a four inch hole right through the foundation wall. No thimble needed so it comes out about the same cost wise. Then you can do a simple up and out. I used an appliance adapter to a clean-out Tee then in my case a 3 three foot section of pellet vent pro. Then a 90 and what ever length you need to get the horizontal cap far enough away from the house. Of course you must have enough foundation wall above grade to use this method. The termination needs to be 24 inches above grade. This is cheaper and easier than what you describe IMO for whatever that's worth. Good luck.......
 
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