ARC
Minister of Fire
Yes but bolted on the out side of the exhaust blower box instead of in the vent stream.
king PK130 which thru wall exh pipe kit to buy?
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ARC
Minister of Fire
When US stove company bought Ashley Pellet stove out they change the board on the Ashley kp130 about 1 out of 10 stoves were programed wrong. They would not burn well and smoked heavily US stoves answer was to replace stove and just junked the bad ones. I bought 2 for "scrap" changed the control board sold them they are still running well. I just don't remember the thermistor being that short.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Interesting. It's good you were able to get some and keep them going. If it is a thermistor (which is like a Harman remote temperature probe) then it can be extended. It looks like they have used high temperature wire, but if you cut it before the plug it could be extended a bit.
I thought it was the hopper safety switch, whatever. Iy works.
How crucial is it to have a floor pad under the stove, we have old oak flooring, not great looking.
How crucial is it to have a floor pad under the stove, we have old oak flooring, not great looking.
ARC
Minister of Fire
You need to have some type of non combustible material under the stove whether you buy a pad or build you own from tile/brick. Check your manual it will tell you the dimensions ie how far out on sides front and back.
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Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I posted what I thought was your manual a few posts ago. It showed a microswitch wired to the auger circuit.
I found this mess , exh adapter looks like its glued on with something.
Should it be removed, I think maybe slit and peel it off.?
IS it supposed to be glued in place?
![[Hearth.com] king PK130 which thru wall exh pipe kit to buy?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/exh-adapter-webp.341165/ "[Hearth.com] king PK130 which thru wall exh pipe kit to buy?")
Should it be removed, I think maybe slit and peel it off.?
IS it supposed to be glued in place?
That’s pretty dangerous…the tailpipes on stoves I’ve seen have been around 1/4” thick, the appliance adapter slides over and is silicone sealed with a worm clamp/hose clamp
You’re on the right track, once you have that loose setup off and inspected you’ll know what to purchase for your exhaust.
Where is this water damage coming from. surface rust on the fan housing and corrosion on the manifold.
I plan to clean it up and set the manifold back with hi temp silicone flexible rather than rigid cement.
The exhaust fan runs run okso maybe the water intrusion is only on the externals of the fan housing, can't imagine how they managed it. Rain down the exhaust pipe?
Anyway, heres where its at. now.
Good stuff, looks like it was in a very humid area or like you said, possible rain getting in via the exhaust. There’s some good diagrams on this link, should be helpful.
www.woodmanspartsplus.com
King KP130 Pellet Stove
These are the parts available from Woodman's Parts Plus for the King KP130 Pellet Stove
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I copied this from the manual link I posted back on page 1. I stuck the link here too.
"A certified 3-inch or 4-inch type “PL” pellet vent exhaust system must be used for installation and attached to the pipe connector provided on the back of the stove (use a 3-inch to 4-inch adapter for 4-inch pipe). The connection at the back of the stove must be sealed using Hi-Temp RTV."
I was looking at the pictures and video this morning and it didn't look like 4". Maybe you thought it was as they had that extra piece.
That corrosion could be from improper storage or humidity, or a really bad burn temperature.
We are getting close to a fire now.
You will want to remove that exhaust temp probe and clean it up. Also you can extend those wires if you want. If you do
you will do it at the plug end with extra wire with a very good connections. Might not be worth the effort now that you know
how to disconnect it.
"A certified 3-inch or 4-inch type “PL” pellet vent exhaust system must be used for installation and attached to the pipe connector provided on the back of the stove (use a 3-inch to 4-inch adapter for 4-inch pipe). The connection at the back of the stove must be sealed using Hi-Temp RTV."
I was looking at the pictures and video this morning and it didn't look like 4". Maybe you thought it was as they had that extra piece.
That corrosion could be from improper storage or humidity, or a really bad burn temperature.
We are getting close to a fire now.
You will want to remove that exhaust temp probe and clean it up. Also you can extend those wires if you want. If you do
you will do it at the plug end with extra wire with a very good connections. Might not be worth the effort now that you know
how to disconnect it.
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I measured the pipe adapter early on to look up pipe kits. Its 3" for sure.
I think they used hard stove cementwith no flex but the corrosion, there had to be a fair amount sitting in there for months to completely eat away the manifold. They arrempted to seal it more than once considering theres black epoxy-ish glue and black RTV on the outside of the joint but it still leaked smoke because the hole from corrosion was on the bottom where its not visible. It was a pain to extract that manifold peice without removing the exh fan, so I'm sure they didn't do any of that.
I think they used hard stove cementwith no flex but the corrosion, there had to be a fair amount sitting in there for months to completely eat away the manifold. They arrempted to seal it more than once considering theres black epoxy-ish glue and black RTV on the outside of the joint but it still leaked smoke because the hole from corrosion was on the bottom where its not visible. It was a pain to extract that manifold peice without removing the exh fan, so I'm sure they didn't do any of that.
Burnin Since 1989
New Member
Is the maniford repairable or will it need to be replaced? Wondering if JB Weld would work in this situation? Any pic of the hole in the manifold?