Lazy flame when using a generator...

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MaineGal

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Apr 29, 2009
5
Central Maine
Hi folks,
New to the site and I'm loving it. Thanks to all that post their knowledge...best site I've found, by far!

Here's my question: 4 or 5 times this past winter we lost power and powered our Harman P68 with a generator. Generator was connected only to the stove, didnt run anything else on it. Problem was that we didnt seem to have full power on the stove, and the flame was very lazy. It worked, and kept us warm, but certainly not at full efficiency.

I've read some posts here that speak of having a surge protector on when using the generator. Will that take care of the problem and make it run better?

Thanks for any advice.
 
Home generators are notorious for producing a dirty sine wave. When I lost power and used my generator I noticed a very slight harmonic hum from my fan when on the lowest speed. I adjusted the fan speed higher and it went away. Not all UPS backups work the same and some will not even work if the signal (power it receives) is too far off what it expects. Most surge protectors only protect against spikes, and do not condition the signal. Someone here will probably chime in with the exact thing you need. I'd be interested as well.
Mike -
 
Hi Mike,
Yep, we had the hum as well. A bit annoying, but like I said, it kept us warm :)
 
MaineGal said:
Hi folks,
New to the site and I'm loving it. Thanks to all that post their knowledge...best site I've found, by far!

Here's my question: 4 or 5 times this past winter we lost power and powered our Harman P68 with a generator. Generator was connected only to the stove, didnt run anything else on it. Problem was that we didnt seem to have full power on the stove, and the flame was very lazy. It worked, and kept us warm, but certainly not at full efficiency.

I've read some posts here that speak of having a surge protector on when using the generator. Will that take care of the problem and make it run better?

Thanks for any advice.

Quite often I`ve seen generators that are not outputting enough voltage. Usually it can be adjusted but you will need a good voltmeter. I set and run my generators at 125/250 vac. And I do use a surge protector on my stove. Actually it makes good sense to use a surge protector on all electronics and most everything that has electronics in it.
Electric garage door openers are notorious for blowing the boards.
 
How about some info on the generator. Everyone always talks about UPS. What about line conditioners? UPS just have very small ones in them.
 
Mark Fellows said:
How about some info on the generator. Everyone always talks about UPS. What about line conditioners? UPS just have very small ones in them.

As I offered in another post, the best (in my opinion) line 'conditioners' are made by a company called Sola. (Google it) They keep the voltage constant and it sounds like maybe I should consider a couple too since I have used a generator 3 times over the winter down here in Georgia...... Surge protectors are good for lightning strikes if you don't buy cheap BB junk but get industrial quality ones.
 
You also might want to look into "Tripp Lite" line stabilizer/conditioner unit or
a 12dc to 120ac inverter w/ sine wave not square wave unit if your gen has a 12vdc out.
 
jng518 said:
You also might want to look into "Tripp Lite" line stabilizer/conditioner unit or
a 12dc to 120ac inverter w/ sine wave not square wave unit if your gen has a 12vdc out.

Yea, Tripp lite is also good. I remembered them last night but got too lazy to post again... The stabilizers also include surge/spike/RFI/EMI protection. And Tripp Lite is less expensive than Sola.
 
I agree with the DR. You need a meter that can check the hurtz (cycles per second). I worked with a guy who serviced generators and he claimed that was a common problem.
 
Jack Straw said:
I agree with the DR. You need a meter that can check the hurtz (cycles per second). I worked with a guy who serviced generators and he claimed that was a common problem.

You can get hertz meters from Newark Electronics from $50 and up. My generator doesn't have adjustment for hertz or rpm's. I guess you could mess with the governor.
 
I have a line conditioner. I bought it as a precaution so I could run it with the new champion 3500 watt generator I bought. I think the line conditioner was about 100.00 dolllars if I am remembering correctly. I never tried it. I just wanted to see if anyone had, or had thought about it. The surge current of a motor is huge and overwhelms most UPS.

Mark :)
 
Mark Fellows said:
I have a line conditioner. I bought it as a precaution so I could run it with the new champion 3500 watt generator I bought. I think the line conditioner was about 100.00 dolllars if I am remembering correctly. I never tried it. I just wanted to see if anyone had, or had thought about it. The surge current of a motor is huge and overwhelms most UPS.

Mark :)

Yea, that's why I would shy away from a UPS. What brand line conditioner do you have?
 
tjnamtiw said:
Mark Fellows said:
I have a line conditioner. I bought it as a precaution so I could run it with the new champion 3500 watt generator I bought. I think the line conditioner was about 100.00 dolllars if I am remembering correctly. I never tried it. I just wanted to see if anyone had, or had thought about it. The surge current of a motor is huge and overwhelms most UPS.

Mark :)

Yea, that's why I would shy away from a UPS. What brand line conditioner do you have?

How many experiences have you had with a UPS being overwhelmed? Were they rated high enough for the device they was suppling power to?

I have a UPS on a pellet furnace which supplies the igniter, auger, combustion fan and heat duct distribution blower. Thats 3 motors; and I never had a problem when running on the UPS. And it provides an hour's worth of backup power when the utility power goes out.
 
exoilburner said:
tjnamtiw said:
Mark Fellows said:
I have a line conditioner. I bought it as a precaution so I could run it with the new champion 3500 watt generator I bought. I think the line conditioner was about 100.00 dolllars if I am remembering correctly. I never tried it. I just wanted to see if anyone had, or had thought about it. The surge current of a motor is huge and overwhelms most UPS.

Mark :)

Yea, that's why I would shy away from a UPS. What brand line conditioner do you have?

How many experiences have you had with a UPS being overwhelmed? Were they rated high enough for the device they was suppling power to?

I have a UPS on a pellet furnace which supplies the igniter, auger, combustion fan and heat duct distribution blower. Thats 3 motors; and I never had a problem when running on the UPS. And it provides an hour's worth of backup power when the utility power goes out.

I won't get into an argument with you about UPS's. I only ask what brand and rating yours has so I can research it and see if it would be cost effective for me. My experiences with UPS's is for computers and the battery life was dismal and replacement costs very high. Please tell me what you have.
 
tjnamtiw said:
I won't get into an argument with you about UPS's. I only ask what brand and rating yours has so I can research it and see if it would be cost effective for me. My experiences with UPS's is for computers and the battery life was dismal and replacement costs very high. Please tell me what you have.

No argument intended, should have put a smiley in there. :)

It's especially frustrating on a forum when a problem is posted and discussed (which may affect me) with no facts to back it up. How good is an opinion when you can't see or know the person making it?

My UPS made by APC (American Power Conversion corporation), model DLA1500. It's intended use is for computer servers. It is more expensive than your line conditoner; it was $292. including shipping. But it provides automatic switching between the utility power, UPS power, and my back-up generator power. Also automatic power conditioning and surge protection. And it automatically recovers from all of the above, no need to replace it after a bad power surge. (like some surge protectors)

During a utility power outage it provides constant clean power to the pellet furnace for an hour which lets me do a normal shut down or hook up my back-up generator. To me it provides complete protection for the pellet furnace control board and electric components. Don't need those to get fried during a winter storm!
 
exoilburner said:
tjnamtiw said:
I won't get into an argument with you about UPS's. I only ask what brand and rating yours has so I can research it and see if it would be cost effective for me. My experiences with UPS's is for computers and the battery life was dismal and replacement costs very high. Please tell me what you have.

No argument intended, should have put a smiley in there. :)

It's especially frustrating on a forum when a problem is posted and discussed (which may affect me) with no facts to back it up. How good is an opinion when you can't see or know the person making it?

My UPS made by APC (American Power Conversion corporation), model DLA1500. It's intended use is for computer servers. It is more expensive than your line conditoner; it was $292. including shipping. But it provides automatic switching between the utility power, UPS power, and my back-up generator power. Also automatic power conditioning and surge protection. And it automatically recovers from all of the above, no need to replace it after a bad power surge. (like some surge protectors)

During a utility power outage it provides constant clean power to the pellet furnace for an hour which lets me do a normal shut down or hook up my back-up generator. To me it provides complete protection for the pellet furnace control board and electric components. Don't need those to get fried during a winter storm!

No problem. That sounds like a heck of a good UPS if you can even hook your generator into it! That would certainly work for me except I would need two for the stoves and one for my flat screen/DVR/PS3/WII/etc/ :eek:)

Thanks. I'm going to keep my eye on for a sale on that one.
 
tjnamtiw said:
No problem. That sounds like a heck of a good UPS if you can even hook your generator into it! That would certainly work for me except I would need two for the stoves and one for my flat screen/DVR/PS3/WII/etc/ :eek:)

Thanks. I'm going to keep my eye on for a sale on that one.

My generator is a Honda inverter so the power out of it may be cleaner than a regular generator. So I can’t testify how well the UPC does when it switches to a genuine generator. But a UPC is designed to clean up power.

If your generator power output is pretty noisy but doesn’t affect your pellet burner the UPC has a sensitivity adjustment you can turn down so it doesn’t switch to UPC power.

If your generator power output is a little low or high you can adjust the UPC HIGH or LOW transfer points adjustments in the UPC.

Check out the UPC user manual on the APC web site at:
https://www.apcc.com/prod_docs/results.cfm?DocType=User+Manual&Query_Type=99&fam;_id=&sku=DLA1500

DLA15002.jpg
DLA1500.jpg
 
exoilburner said:
tjnamtiw said:
No problem. That sounds like a heck of a good UPS if you can even hook your generator into it! That would certainly work for me except I would need two for the stoves and one for my flat screen/DVR/PS3/WII/etc/ :eek:)

Thanks. I'm going to keep my eye on for a sale on that one.

My generator is a Honda inverter so the power out of it may be cleaner than a regular generator. So I can’t testify how well the UPC does when it switches to a genuine generator. But a UPC is designed to clean up power.

If your generator power output is pretty noisy but doesn’t affect your pellet burner the UPC has a sensitivity adjustment you can turn down so it doesn’t switch to UPC power.

If your generator power output is a little low or high you can adjust the UPC HIGH or LOW transfer points adjustments in the UPC.

Check out the UPC user manual on the APC web site at:
https://www.apcc.com/prod_docs/results.cfm?DocType=User+Manual&Query_Type=99&fam;_id=&sku=DLA1500

DLA15002.jpg
DLA1500.jpg


I looked up what the battery costs for that 'bad boy' on Newegg. $200!! Wow.
 
tjnamtiw said:
I looked up what the battery costs for that 'bad boy' on Newegg. $200!! Wow.

Yes, that's a little spendy. But I guess that depends on how many years of use it provides.

New battery from APC is $180 but if you shop around on the net you can find them for around $100.

APC’s battery spec says the battery life is 3-5 years.
Warranty 1 year repair or replace

I have an older UPS from the same manufacturer (APC) to use on my work PC for telecommuting to my job. It has a "replace battery" light that has never come on. The UPS has worked problem-free, continually for more than 5 years.

Hope all this information has been helpful.
 
That looks like a nice UPS. Does anyone use a UPS connected only to the exhaust blower so that if the power goes out it would exhaust the stove until the fire goes out? That seems like a good idea. I'm more concerned about that, than keeping the stove running. If I am aware of the power loss, I can always hook up the generator, but a power loss at night while sleeping could be a problem?
Mike -
 
exoilburner said:
tjnamtiw said:
I won't get into an argument with you about UPS's. I only ask what brand and rating yours has so I can research it and see if it would be cost effective for me. My experiences with UPS's is for computers and the battery life was dismal and replacement costs very high. Please tell me what you have.

No argument intended, should have put a smiley in there. :)

It's especially frustrating on a forum when a problem is posted and discussed (which may affect me) with no facts to back it up. How good is an opinion when you can't see or know the person making it?

My UPS made by APC (American Power Conversion corporation), model DLA1500. It's intended use is for computer servers. It is more expensive than your line conditoner; it was $292. including shipping. But it provides automatic switching between the utility power, UPS power, and my back-up generator power. Also automatic power conditioning and surge protection. And it automatically recovers from all of the above, no need to replace it after a bad power surge. (like some surge protectors)

During a utility power outage it provides constant clean power to the pellet furnace for an hour which lets me do a normal shut down or hook up my back-up generator. To me it provides complete protection for the pellet furnace control board and electric components. Don't need those to get fried during a winter storm!

Excuse me sir, but how about not acting like no one knows what they are talking about and can't gather facts.

What I was referring to was to the models of ups that probably capture at least 70% of the market which are the low end ones that most people put on their computers. I guess I should have been more clear.

Of course you can get ups that will work fine. They are even better because they have a battery. However, how long is 1 hour compared to a winter night. Our power has been out in the past for 8-10 hours.

So for the money, I would really rather have a standard generator 375.00 and a 100.00 power conditioner. The generator will easily run for 8 hours on a tank of gas and will run indefinitely with fill ups.

If you have the money to spend, absolutely get a good ups. they have very large ones in the 800.00 range and higher. Go for it. One should probably have a generator also for extended power outages. Might be a little more money with the ups you describe and a generator.

I put that comment on there just to start a discussion. Not to talk down to anyone.

How about these for verifiable facts:

1. In small ups like you can get at Walmart and such, the ups can't handle the surge current you get when the motors are starting up. You will get an internal trip shutting down the current.

2. Larger ups to handle the current requirements of starting motors are much more expensive than the smaller ups you see in walmart and office depot.

3. An ups by its self has very limited power reserves that won't last long.

4. Some stove manufacturers have batter backups with circuitry but by the time you buy the backup circuitry and supply a marine battery you are well over the cost of buying a generator and line conditioner.

5. If you power goes out for a week, you are much better off having a generator and line conditioner than an ups by its self.

Of course if you can afford and large high power ups and a generator that is you best bet.

I hope this didn't make you frustrated. It is just a message board on the internet.
 
There appears to be a bit of confusion here about clean/vs dirty power etc. We have a Coleman contractor generator which will soon be replaced with either a Honda or Yamaha inverter generator. We also have high quality APC UPSs on primary computer equipment and on our home theater equipment because we are in a rural area with somewhat erratic power. These systems are in place to protect from large voltage fluctuations as well as to provide soft-landings from power outages.

First note: Our UPSs will not accept the almost square-wave power from the generator. With the generator running the UPS will not accept the pseudo AC coming from the generator.

Second note: A line conditioner, will linearize voltage, but to my knowledge, will not clean this the output. It is not going to make clean sine-wave power from a modified or square-wave source. Nor will it correct for cycle drift if the generator is not spot on 60Hz.

If running on a generator for extended periods of time, the best investment appears to be to get a decent, (quiet) inverter generator. These are much more expensive than cheap Chinese generators, but my understanding is that they provide much cleaner power regulation. I'm not stepping in as an authority here, but we have gone through lots of extended power outages. For 5 yrs we also ran a pellet stove. Our pellet stove ran ok but not perfect, but that really doesn't mean much regarding other pellet stoves.

As for the original post about the Harmon, I'm guessing that the Harmon has pretty simple electronics that expect sine-wave power. If you put a cheap voltmeter on my generator's output you will see low voltage because it's circuitry expects 60Hz clean power. My understanding is that is because inexpensive electronics usually aren't RMS corrected. Seems that could be the same thing with the Harmon electronics, but it would be good to hear from an expert on this subject here.
 
There are a few things here.

A lot of people think that honda makes inverter generators because they are the cleanest power. The reason that the honda generators are inverters is because they can be lighter than a traditional generator and more fuel efficient. Sinewaves are the best. House hold 120 RMS(Root Mean Square) is based on a sinewave only. The power that comes into your house is not a square wave or modified square wave, it is a sinewave.

Most are modified square waves. I have a web page I was looking at with actual o-scope readings of the Honda and Yamaha inverter type generator. I will look it up again. I don't have an Oscilliscope at home to hook up so I could present images on how my waveform looks. They are making them much better but there is nothing wrong with a nice standard generator. This power is produced in the same manor as the power company produces theirs but on a much smaller scale.

Honda and Yamaha now have something called "true sine wave" which is just a square wave with a lot more steps to more closely reproduce a real sine wave.

You are probably right about line conditioners. My feeling is that if you have a decent generator put it in series(mechanically, which would be in parallel electrically) with the generator it should do a good job of giving you clean power.

Add a larger ups and you should get great clean power.

For the money, I will just use the generator and line condioner.

I will try and find that web page I am referring to in this post to show people.

I have seen a lot of post where people are saying that hondas are the cleanest because the honda engineers know how to produce the best power. People should keep in mind that those type of generators use inverters to make quit, light weight and fuel efficient power.

If you buy one you are probably fine, but you are into the 2000.00 range for a simple backup generator. Of course, you can then take your generator camping, but if you just want cheap backup power, a decent generator(Even a Champion) should do just fine.


Mark
 
exoilburner said:
tjnamtiw said:
I looked up what the battery costs for that 'bad boy' on Newegg. $200!! Wow.

Yes, that's a little spendy. But I guess that depends on how many years of use it provides.

New battery from APC is $180 but if you shop around on the net you can find them for around $100.

APC’s battery spec says the battery life is 3-5 years.
Warranty 1 year repair or replace

I have an older UPS from the same manufacturer (APC) to use on my work PC for telecommuting to my job. It has a "replace battery" light that has never come on. The UPS has worked problem-free, continually for more than 5 years.

Hope all this information has been helpful.

Hmmm, both of my APC UPS's for my home computers are crying for batteries as we speak after just a year. Maybe just a bad batch or 'Made in China' syndrome.
 
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