hey gang. im new to log splitters and the forum. here's my issue. log splitter bogs down under load. i realize it should bog a little but it seems to be getting worse. so i searched the forum and found out that there is an adjustment screw on the actuator. i dont know the make/model of splitter. think it was built in someones garage. anyway i was told that the adjustment was under the round cap on the front side of the actuator. i took off the 4 hex screws on the cap and under this was a large spring. the same guy that told me that this is where the screw is. he also told me i could adjust w/ the motor running. needless to say, i recieved a face full of hydr. fluid when i operated the handle. shut engine down, cleaned the fluid from my face and reinstalled cap. then i found the adjustment screw under under the round topped bolt on the actuator (not really sure thats what that part is called, the part w/ the handle that opperates piston) now i know i should have counted how many turns out from fully tightened, but i didnt. so i messed w/ the adjustment screw a bit and the bog seems to be a bit less noticable. however fluid is leaking from the front of the actuator in the area where i removed the 4 hex bolts initially. so, my 2 questions are as followed: how many turns out from fully tightened should the adjustment screw be, and second, can i use a rtv sealer to seal my new leak or is the leak caused by an improperly adjusted adjustment screw, i/e, too much preasure? thanks guys, bradford. if the info ive provided is not clear enough, please feel free to call me @ 845 707 4330
log splitter adjustment..."stumped" please help
- Thread starter neversinksmith
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Dune
Minister of Fire
What you have adjusted is the pressure relief. The unit you refer to is the valve, or splitter vavle or cylinder direction valve. The pressure relief valve should NEVER be adjusted by the uninformed. The only way to rectify the situation is to install a pressure gauge. The relief valve represents system pressure, so the gauge should be installed between the pump an the cylinder direction valve. You can use a forged tee for this, preferably obtained from a heavy equipment supplier or repair facility, or a machine shop can drill and tap an existing connection. The gauge should be 0-2500P.S.I. Iwould adjust it to 1500 psi to start, but not go over 2000 psi.
As to the leak, you either lost a gasket, trashed an o-ring, or didn't tighten the bolts in sequence or to proper torque.
The actuater is the cylinder itself, just so you know.
As to the leak, you either lost a gasket, trashed an o-ring, or didn't tighten the bolts in sequence or to proper torque.
The actuater is the cylinder itself, just so you know.
Hey Dune - some splitters come from the factory set at 2250 psi, and most splitters come with components that are rated for 2500. For this reason, I would suggest a 3000 psi gauge. That is the only way you will really know where you are at. "how many turns" really won't mean much. Weak or different spring, a different brand, etc. can/will change that value from one splitter to the next.
Now the leaking cap - well, thats probably just a gasket issue or improperly tightened cap screws. Check it, clean it, try again, but it seems weird that you would get a face full of oil from it. The only way that can happen is if you have "blow by" past the O ring that should seal it (on the shaft). If that is the case, be for warned that the cap you are messing with "could" be holding "system" pressure. Meaning that if the leak into the cap is that bad, while running, that cap could be under serious pressure.
Now the leaking cap - well, thats probably just a gasket issue or improperly tightened cap screws. Check it, clean it, try again, but it seems weird that you would get a face full of oil from it. The only way that can happen is if you have "blow by" past the O ring that should seal it (on the shaft). If that is the case, be for warned that the cap you are messing with "could" be holding "system" pressure. Meaning that if the leak into the cap is that bad, while running, that cap could be under serious pressure.
Dune
Minister of Fire
There you go, even better advice. That extra 250 p.s.i. might make the difference on something tough to split.
well its not the cap thats leaking, its actually leaking from behind the aprox 2" x 3" piece behind the cap. sorry im not farmiliar w/ the names of the parts. if this photo gets attached you can see the area thats leaking (where im pointing to). i just took off the 4 bolts to see if i didnt get the gasket/o-ring in the groove but when i took it apart, i noticed that there was no gasket or o-ring or groove for o-ring. it was not leaking there before. there are no signs of gasket sealler, rtv, etc. just two smooth surfaces. i cleaned both surfaces and tightened screws evenly in criss-cross pattern and its still leaking. hope the photo helps. can i use rtv sealler on these surfaces?
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/neversinksmith/thegirls003.jpg
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af5/neversinksmith/thegirls003.jpg
triptester
Feeling the Heat
The area you are showing should be the detent. The capped screw should be for adjusting detent release pressure. It is common that there is no gasket or sealent at that end of the control valve. Pressure relief adjustment will be located on the side under a plug near the return port or at the front of the valve next to the spool..
Leaking at the front or rear of the control valve usually indicates a bad O-ring or a scratch in the spool or valve body.
Leaking at the front or rear of the control valve usually indicates a bad O-ring or a scratch in the spool or valve body.
so does the leak @ the detent (where there was no leak before) lead you to believe that i turned the adjustment screw clockwise too much, causing too much preasure and therefore, a leak in this area? i just partially removed it and cleaned the area thouroughly thinking a piece of debris got in there prior to re-torquing it down? CAN i (should i) put some rtv on the surface and retighten and/or remove piston and make a gasket?
triptester
Feeling the Heat
I don't recognize that particular valve but most detent covers have a small vent so sealant or gasket are not used. If the adjustment screw is set too tight it could force the spool to one side causing a small leak if the O-ring is old and stiff.
triptester said:
there is no o-ring. someone mentioned "torque sequence" above. i did a criss cross sequence, was this wrong? i dont get it...
triptester
Feeling the Heat
Attached is info for a different brand valve but basic construction is typical. There may be a backup washer covering the O-ring. All O-rings are inside the main body.
Installation instructions include some causes for detent problems . The detent on this brand valve is non-adjustable but it's basic operation is the same.
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf
Installation instructions include some causes for detent problems . The detent on this brand valve is non-adjustable but it's basic operation is the same.
http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf
Your probably not going to see the O-ring that triptester is referring to. Its tucked inside and rides on the shaft. There is no gasket there because there is not supposed to be fluid there. More than likely, it is leaking there because the O-ring inside has developed a leak and allowing the fluid to the point of where you are pointing at. RTV will probably just move the leak downstream. You could try making a gasket, but again, that will probably not fix the underlying problem. An increase in system pressure, could have caused this.
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