Log splitter question

[snydley]

I bought a Huskee 22 ton log splitter yesterday and have used it for 2 days and I have a question I couldn't find the answer to in the manual.
After splitting a log, is it necessary to reverse the splitter and send it all the way back to the end of the cylinder's "thow" each time you use it, or just far enough to get your wood out, and enough for the next log to fit? I've found that I don't need to send the cylinder all the way "home" when using it, but didn't know if it could somehow damage it if it didn't return all the way back?
I almost bought the Huskee 35 ton model, (hope I won't be sorry),but decided I didn't need anything that big since I cut my logs to 16". I figured the $800. I saved would buy me a nice chainsaw. :cheese:
Thanks

 

[michaelthomas]

It shouldn't matter if you stop it short. All you are doing is stopping the flow in one direction and starting it going in another direction. When the valve is not engaged, the fluid just flows through it and back into the system, bypassing the cylinder. Just make sure that you have the ram tucked all the way into the cylinder when you put it away for the day so it doesn't get rusty or let moisture into it. On my splitter it has a 36" cylinder and I cut my wood to 18", so I only use about half the travel. Many times all I have to do is push it 2-3" into the log and it pops right open, so i pull it back and re-load. Saves time on the cycle.

 

[snydley]

It shouldn't matter if you stop it short. All you are doing is stopping the flow in one direction and starting it going in another direction. When the valve is not engaged, the fluid just flows through it and back into the system, bypassing the cylinder. Just make sure that you have the ram tucked all the way into the cylinder when you put it away for the day so it doesn't get rusty or let moisture into it. On my splitter it has a 36" cylinder and I cut my wood to 18", so I only use about half the travel. Many times all I have to do is push it 2-3" into the log and it pops right open, so i pull it back and re-load. Saves time on the cycle.

That's what I thought, but I wanted to make sure. Something else I wondered, I didn't buy the Huskee 35 ton splitter 'cause I thought that was more splitter than I needed and to save money. I wondered if down the road I needed more power if I could put a larger verticle shaft engine on it, like an 8 or 10 HP engine. Any reason why I couldn't do that as long as the base bolt hole pattern was the same, and the engine shaft would fit in the pump orifice?

 

[Redox]

The force generated by a splitter is determined by the pump pressure and the area of the cylinder. Most splitters I have looked at max out at 3000 PSI or so and to get more force, you have to change the cylinder. The larger motor would just use more gas. I hope 22 tons is enough. I just ordered a 20 ton electric Ramsplitter.

Chris

 

[Jay H]

Would there be any problem with constant pressure on the fluid which will generate more heat in the fluid? If you never let the ram go back to "idle"? I do the same but since I'm always splitting wood by my self, there are periods where I will have to fetch another round or if I have to go move some parts of the split stack.

Jay

 

[snydley]

The force generated by a splitter is determined by the pump pressure and the area of the cylinder. Most splitters I have looked at max out at 3000 PSI or so and to get more force, you have to change the cylinder. The larger motor would just use more gas. I hope 22 tons is enough. I just ordered a 20 ton electric Ramsplitter.

Chris

I noticed a couple times, on the really big stuff, that the engine sounds like it's "bogging down" for a few seconds, like going uphill in your car in too high a gear. I figured if I put a bigger engine on it that would stop. It's nothing I'm concerned with though, that only happens with the really big stuff with lots of knots in it. Anything I find it can't split I'll use the chainsaw on.

 

[snydley]

Would there be any problem with constant pressure on the fluid which will generate more heat in the fluid? If you never let the ram go back to "idle"? I do the same but since I'm always splitting wood by my self, there are periods where I will have to fetch another round or if I have to go move some parts of the split stack.

Jay

I wondered about that myself. I guess I'll let it idle every time to be safe. I don't want to wear it out prematurely. I wonder if someone on here,(with a PHD or something ;-) in hydraulics), can give us the definitive answer. I also split by myself and can get more done if I don't have to let it return home every time.

 

[Jay H]

if I have a problem with my 27ton Troy Built and knots and stuff, 75% of the time i figure, I can turn the log over or just split around the knot. And then after that I can break out either my cutting axe to cut the knot out or my electric Makita chainsaw to do that or maybe even a bow saw if I can get in there, but I'll just toss them aside to work on them some other time. Doesn't happen too often.

I would assume the hyd. Fluid must be rated for a certain pressure/heat (they're both related from a fluid mechanics standpoint) but I don't know what that is and I would think that it's probably covered for. I don't recall reading any warnings about this in the splitter manual. Like you, I will listen to the motor and try not to bog it down too much.

I also, as a matter of practice keep a can of cheap cooking spray in a spray can to spray the wedge and the I-beam every now and then. Helps the wedge split and smells good... LOL.

Jay

 

[triptester]

Would there be any problem with constant pressure on the fluid which will generate more heat in the fluid? If you never let the ram go back to "idle"? I do the same but since I'm always splitting wood by my self, there are periods where I will have to fetch another round or if I have to go move some parts of the split stack.

Jay

I wondered about that myself. I guess I'll let it idle every time to be safe. I don't want to wear it out prematurely. I wonder if someone on here,(with a PHD or something ;-) in hydraulics), can give us the definitive answer. I also split by myself and can get more done if I don't have to let it return home every time.

Log splitters use and open center control valve that directs the fluid back to the tank when it is in the neutral position regardless of piston position.

A little strain on the engine when going through tough wood is a sign that the engine is finaly working and is not a sign that power is being lost. In hydraulics cylinder size plus system pressure determine maximum force. The only time that hp. comes into effect is when speed needs to be increased by using a larger gpm pump. A 5hp. engine can produce as much pressure as a 50 hp. engine the only difference is the big engine is capable of handling a larger gpm pump that provide greater speed.

 

[Jags]

Yep, and to maybe directly answer your question: No, you will not create more heat/pressure by stopping the ram short of full stroke. As triptester said it is an "open center" system, meaning that unless the ram is in motion, your fluid simply passes thru the valve under very low/no pressure.

As far as increasing motor size: Not needed unless you are going to increase pump size. If you can't stop the motor before the bypass pressure is reached on your valve, you have the proper size engine. Increasing hp won't gain you much. It might sound like its bogging down, but in reality, its just working a little harder. Perfectly acceptable.

You have a good splitter, that has a pretty good track record. Quit worrying and get to splittin' ;-P . You ain't gonna hurt it.

 

[snydley]

Yep, and to maybe directly answer your question: No, you will not create more heat/pressure by stopping the ram short of full stroke. As triptester said it is an "open center" system, meaning that unless the ram is in motion, your fluid simply passes thru the valve under very low/no pressure.

As far as increasing motor size: Not needed unless you are going to increase pump size. If you can't stop the motor before the bypass pressure is reached on your valve, you have the proper size engine. Increasing hp won't gain you much. It might sound like its bogging down, but in reality, its just working a little harder. Perfectly acceptable.

You have a good splitter, that has a pretty good track record. Quit worrying and get to splittin' ;-P . You ain't gonna hurt it.

Great!! I just wanted to make sure, since it wasn't covered in the manual. I was trying to split the wood with a little 5 ton electric Task Force splitter I bought for splitting the larger "splits" I was getting in the f.c. I was buying, and that wasn't "getting it". I knew I'd break that before long splitting all that wood, so I just HAD ;-) to go buy the 22 ton Huskee, I had to :cheese: .
In 2 days I've scrounged about 5 f.c. of wood, with plenty more to come!! 3 f.c. was bucked and stacked on the side of the road! With any luck I won't be buying any wood for next season.
On another note, our local village workers are expanding the baseball field/carnival area of town and clearing out part of the woods. I've got the ok from one of the "higher ups" to help myself to all the wood I want!! As soon as I've finished with this 5 f.c. I'm going there to fill my trailer up!! Ahh, life is good. :coolsmile: