Looking to purchase EKO 25...install questions

[ElkCountry]

Hi, I am in the market for a new wood boiler and came across this website I am fairly convinced about going with the 25. My house is around 800 sqft and is fairly well insulated. I have never attempted any boiler installation before, but I would like to do the install myself. I have looked over several plumbing schematics, but I have not seen any that are what I need. I am installing the stove in an outdoor shed ~50' away from my house. I will need to run it through a heat exchanger in my forced air furnace plenum and it will also be heating my hot water. I understand the basic idea of how the lines will be run, but I am unsure of the rest of the components in this install and their locations i.e. expansion tank, vents, valves, etc. I would really like to have water storage, but I do not think I will be able to swing that this year, but If there was a way to plumb it so I could add storage in the future I would like to do that.

I do not know if there is a schematic out there that is similar to this design, but if I could get my hands on one that would be great.

If any more info is needed from me just let me know

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Tennman]

The pdf from the Tarm Biomass website is filled with lots of great schematic examples. Ignore the parts of the schematic that doesn't apply to you. I'll add some pics of our system because pictures are a huge help. If I'd have had my boiler before I built my barn the side door would have been located differently, but it's ok.

(broken link removed to http://www.woodboilers.com/images/stories/documents/woodboilerplumbingschematic1211.pdf)






You can see how when we poured the slab I needed to guess where to put the underground line exits. So because of the door location, I needed to come around the corner from the back of the boiler to get to the slab exit. If you plan a little better than me, you should be able to shorten the distance from the boiler exit and supply to where you go underground.

After 4 seasons (or is it 5?) we're adding storage now, so no big deal to add it when you can afford it. Just look at those schematics and think about where the storage tanks will go. Our tanks are standing to the right side of the door in the first picture. Notice that I added unions and ball valves to isolate all the key components that may need replacement or service.

Hot comes out the top thru the air separator (green thing) and into the ground. Return from house comes up thru the slab, to the pump (lower green thing) and into the boiler return. One of the vertical runs of the manifold has the mixing valve that mixes some hot water with return going back to the boiler for corrosion protection. A tee is at the boiler exit to install a temp/pressure gage and the relief valve.

We also have a heat exchanger in the output plenum from our propane, forced-air furnace. We use a separate thermostat that just controls the furnace fan when we need heat. MAKE SURE YOU ADD A SEPARATE PVC OR PEX LINE SO YOU CAN CONTROL THE CIRC PUMP WHICH WILL PROBABLY BE IN THE BARN. I screwed up and didn't do that, now have to figure out how to do that.

READ the underground sticky and resist the urge to go cheap on the part of the system you can't see 50 feet's not far. Buy the best Thermopex, foam it, or wait till next season if you can't afford to do the underground right.

Our system is about the simplest with minimal components necessary, but has saved us a lot of money and keeps us warm. If you can go see a system that will be a huge help, but here's some pics which is the next best thing. You've found the right place. Great group here and you'll probably need them again once you get running. Cheers

 

[91LMS]

tenmann love it. cant wait to share with a fellow biomass 60 on the install. I have changes to my system due with this new install to clean it all up. these guys are all great on here to help elk. if it isn't in the boiler room you don't need it

 

[stee6043]

Good choice with the EKO. I can personally guarantee you'll find everything you need for a successful install right here at this website. Search around and enjoy.

 

[ElkCountry]

Thanks for the replies some very helpful info on here. I am sure I will need more help as time goes on just need to get the boiler ordered first. I plan on doing that early next week.

 

[ElkCountry]

Since it is such a large purchase I do want to be sure I am buying the correct model for my heating needs so I have been doing a little more researching on boiler sizing. Should I be ok with the 25 or would the 40 be better for my situation? The boiler will be in an insulated shed outside. My house is only 800sqft but I also have an unfinished basement. So total I have around 1600 sq ft. My existing fuel oil furnace is rated at 119k/btu. With the Eko 25 only being 85k/btu is this undersized?

I am still searching the forums on this as well, but if anyone has some insight on this I would appreciate it. Thanks.

 

[Fred61]

I'm heating a 1025 sq ft ranch with a 25 and it is more than adequate. Didn't have storage the first year and struggled with creosote due to excessive idling. Now with 500 gallons of storage I have one three to four hour fire per day and coast on the stored heat for the remaining hours.

 

[BoiledOver]

Hello Elk:

I have been using the 25 with 1,000 gallons of storage for a similar heat load. It gets the job done adequately and I went with the 25 for the lower price. My thoughts about the difference you could expect would be in your tending time. To charge storage with a 25 takes two loadings of the firebox for 1,000 gallons. I am thinking with the larger firebox of the 40, it could happen in one load. Also with the 40, I believe the exhaust tubes are a bit longer and therefor will take more btu's out of the exhaust than the 25. This 25 setup tends to get flue temps slightly above the optimum range at the lowest blower setting. If the tubes were longer maybe the flue temps would decrease and squeeze out a little more efficiency. This would not be huge by any means, but an increase of any amount is worth consideration. So the 25 may take up to twice the amount of your time to achieve the same result.

Whatever you decide, 25 or 40, you must get your intake baffles dialed in. This is covered in the fine tuning an EKO. There are also some mods that many will consider mandatory. I took the advice here and applied these two prior to the first burn.

Remove the turbulators and replace with chains or just rehang the turbulators after removing all of the shaker system. That silly system will be in your way of cleaning the exhaust tubes. Many posts regarding this issue.

Line the bottom of the firebox to create a replaceable nozzle of your own making. Fire brick, carbon steel, stainless steel, or whatever you might be able to fashion. This will be much easier than replacing the store bought refractory nozzle and much less money spent. Many posts regarding this issue.

Good luck to you, and try not to smile while watching the oil truck fly by your place.

 

[BoiledOver]

Hey Elk, how's your boiler setup going?