Lopi burn pot decay

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Attention, everyone, we are getting way off topic here. After looking at the pics closely and agreeing with a few posters, I would venture that it was a fabrication error. The punch process fatiqued the sheet stock, possibly small pieces caught in the punch. Heating and cooling cycles opened the cracks and eventually let the cracks join at the holes and a small piece fell out. Further cycling and the cracks opened further.

Two observations, though, there seems to be some "salts" build up on the side holes. This would tend to force more air through the bottom and create the blow-torch effect to significantly raise the burn temp at the middle of the pot. Pellets falling into the pot would not cause any of the cracking or failure.

Second, Travis must be aware of the situation and unlike many other manufacturers didn't quibble about replacing the pot at their nickle. No questions or fuss, that's really pleasant to see. As a return favor, ask the dealer for the address of the R&D for the stove factory. If the dealer doesn't take the pot and send it back, you do it with a summary of use, and a big THANKS for the super service.
 
Griny said:
Checkthisout said:
Cold air didn't do that.

It's crappy pot material/assembly or extremely corrosive pellets.

I am burning Blazers right now as well. :)

I agree on the cold air, not sure about the extremely corrosive pellets, perhaps I should put a anode on it? :cheese:

That's a good idea especially if you are planning on using it in salwater but I would prefer to paint it with Rust-O-Leum. :)

I am wondering what the yellowing is.
 
Do a search on this site about float wood. Not what you want to burn. The yellow is deposits of minerals not burned from the pellets that get fused to the metal of the burn pot. If they are fusing there it's possible they are in other places in the stove burn path. The issue can be serious, especially when it restricts the flow of air, or locks up a snap switch.

This is a no grin situation.
 
littlesmokey said:
Do a search on this site about float wood. Not what you want to burn. The yellow is deposits of minerals not burned from the pellets that get fused to the metal of the burn pot. If they are fusing there it's possible they are in other places in the stove burn path. The issue can be serious, especially when it restricts the flow of air, or locks up a snap switch.

This is a no grin situation.

Sulfidation? Burnpot going Eutectic?
 
A firepot is a maintenance item. When I bought my used St. Croix the dealer installed a new firepot and now mine is getting extra holes in it again. I'm just going to weld it and drill out the holes... but I certainly wouldn't be concerend about having to replace the part. These stoves really see a lot of heat...it's to be expected.
 
Checkthisout said:
littlesmokey said:
Do a search on this site about float wood. Not what you want to burn. The yellow is deposits of minerals not burned from the pellets that get fused to the metal of the burn pot. If they are fusing there it's possible they are in other places in the stove burn path. The issue can be serious, especially when it restricts the flow of air, or locks up a snap switch.

This is a no grin situation.

Sulfidation? Burnpot going Eutectic?

I know of logs going into the salt water, happens right behind where I work Manke lumber in Tacoma uses the Hylebos waterway to move they're logs around They produce the Clean burn pellets.
I wouldn't burn they're pellets just because of this fact! Here's Manke lumber Hylebos waterway Tacoma

Now those snap switches are usually located on the outside of the stove, I mean on the outside of the hopper or exhaust fan housing so I don't think they will lock up because of deposit of minerals.
 
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