I had a Buck Stove Model 21 Fireplace Insert installed and am experiencing low heat output for the wood consumption. Is this a problem with other Buck Stove users? Have owned many other types of wood and coal stoves over the years with good results on most. If anyone has ideas I might try before selling the thing and getting a good "foreign made" product please let me know.
Low Heat Output from Buck Stove Model 21
- Thread starter bangforthebuck
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Could also be your wood isn't dry enough, or you are burning with too much air and driving the heat up the flue. Give us some background on your wood supply and flue setup, as well as how you're setting the air, etc.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
branchburner said:
+1 . . . more info on how you are running the stove, what temps you are getting and when your wood was cut, split and stacked would help a lot.
Thanks for the info. I called the installer - they don't know what a blocking plate is. My wood is seasoned oak (live oak and some laurel) I can get a good secondary burn going but to no avail. If I damper down all I get is a low fire and soot.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
bangforthebuck said:
Next question . . . what is your definition or your wood seller's definition of "seasoned oak?" Here most folks would not burn oak until it has been cut, split and stacked for at least one year -- preferably two years or more.
From the sounds of it you are able to get a secondary burn for a bit . . . and then when the air is cut down the fire suffocates -- meaning either the wood is truly not seasoned enough, you haven't got the stove hot enough and brought it up to temp before you start closing down the air (do you have a thermometer -- these can help) or there is a draft issue . . .
Bear with us and our questions . . . we want to help you out.
Oh yeah . . . if memory serves me right some Buck stoves are cat stoves . . . this is a secondary burner, right?
What ia your chimney setup like? Sounds like poor draft or less than seasoned wood. Did you cut it yourself or buy it 'seasoned'? Truly seasoned wood is hard to buy.
A block off plate is used when a liner is installed in a larger masonry chimney. Seals off the opening from the existing fireplace to prevent heat loss up the chimney.
A block off plate is used when a liner is installed in a larger masonry chimney. Seals off the opening from the existing fireplace to prevent heat loss up the chimney.
This could be a combination of a short or too big chimney combined with moderate outdoor temperatures is affecting the draft. Assuming the wood is good, we need a description of how the insert was installed and connected to the chimney or liner.
How tall is the chimney?
How is the stove connected? Is there a stub to just above the damper plate? Or did the chimney get a 6" stainless liner attached to the stove?
How tall is the chimney?
How is the stove connected? Is there a stub to just above the damper plate? Or did the chimney get a 6" stainless liner attached to the stove?
Thanks to all of you for attention to this issue. The seasoning of wood seems to be a common point so let me start there. The oak I'm using was cut last year into 4ft lengths and stacked off the ground uncovered. A month ago it was cut to 16 in and split then stacked off the ground covered. Unlike the environment where I used to live in MA, wood older than one year here just turns to mush and is useless for a fireplace or stove. I'm not saying the wood is not the problem -but- a friend burning the same wood in a free standing stove of another brand is walking around the house in tee shirt & shorts with the windows open while we shiver 8-10 feet from this insert. I'm going to invest in a stove thermometer it sounds like a better indicator than 'appearance' alone so thanks for that tip. As for the draft - the installer crumpled up a piece of newspaper and lit it with the door open after the installation was complete - since most of the smoke went up the flue it was pronounced "good". I have it burning now with the fan on low and as its 40 outside I seem to be getting some benefit from it. This is a non-cat unit. The dog is begging for attention - better see what he wants......
As a current owner of a buck 21 I can tell you that your wood is not dry enough.. Also, if you have the blower on (at all) you will NOT be able to damp down the stove past about 1/4" from all the way out.. Also, if you are trying to burn in 40+ temps you will probably need an additional 1/4" of draft to burn cleanly.. I had one of these in my home for several years and still have another at my parents house, they are/were both heating monsters but are a but finicky with such a small firebox.. Feel free to ask any technical questions, I've done everything wrong that you can do and finally got it right! Great little stove you have there..
Jason
Jason
krex1010
Minister of Fire
If that oak was cut last hear and left in 4' lengths up until a month or so ago then it is not dry my friend. Oak takes at bear minimum of one year to season and that is when it is already split. Wet wood is at least part of your problem. As for your friend he may have other factors going for him that are letting him get more heat, he could have a larger stove, better draft or running the thing more wide open or he may have an older non EPA stove, they are less finicky about how dry the wood is. You may have other things working against you as well, no block off plate and poor draft combined with wet wood = low heat output for sure.
Thanks again for taking interest in my situation. I'm happy to hear from a satisfied Model 21 owner - that's encouraging. As for the chimney - parts listed on the invoice include a 6" Duraflex Connector and 6"/35' SS. Liner. Stack exits at roof peak approx. 4 feet tall. I think I'd better focus on the wood. I'm going to seek out some well seasoned product for sale and experiment with it. Stay warm everybody.
Yes, that oak needs more time. Beware of exaggerated claims when shopping for seasoned wood - it may be no drier than what you have, in spite of what the sellers may say. If you find the good stuff, it will be worth paying a premium. You should notice a big difference. Good luck!
bangforthebuck said:
Sounds like you are on the right track. Please report back no matter what the results are! Follow-up is learning for everyone.
good luck
pen
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
bangforthebuck said:
I think we have the answer . . . generally most folks consider wood to truly start seasoning when it is cut and split . . . when left in log form it generally doesn't season very well. If humidity is an issue I would suspect that getting it off the ground (as you have done) and top covering the wood would keep it from getting punky and funky . . .
As for why your friend may have no issues . . . there are a lot of variables . . . does he have an older smoke dragon for a stove (there is a world of difference in how EPA and pre-EPA stoves work when it comes to burning semi-seasoned wood) . . . what is the chimney set up for you and him (drafting is always an issue) . . . how large is his stove compared to your stove . . . how is running the stove, etc.
I might try a little experiment to see if the wood is the issue . . . get a hold of some pallet wood or kiln dried lumber and try burning some of this in your stove . . . some folks also may suggest buying some kiln dried wood that you can get at a hardware store for sale. See if you can't easily ignite this wood and bring the stove up to temp and then cut back the air and get a nice secondary burn.
Good call on the thermometer . . . and good luck.
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