Magnum Countryside 3500p

[Mark_ms]

A friend of mine asked me to look at his stove, said it wasn't running right. When firing it up lazy flame and soot soon covered glass. Ok so we have an air flow issue.

Unit was installed 3 years ago and it has never been cleaned.

I went to adjust the sliding damper on left side of stove and it would not budge, I sprayed it with WD40, used lithium grease, tapped it with a rubber mallet and swore at it a few times, it finally pulled out but was missing a small section where it apparently had broken, it was rusty indicating to me that it had been broken for a while and probably the section missing was preventing it from sliding out. Now it will not go back in again probably due to the missing section or perhaps the manifold (?) may be warped.

I removed the fire brick covering the back wall to access the 2 inspection ports on each side of the auger they too were rusty but did manage to get them off and when I did the ash was above the port holes! So now I know it really needs a deep cleaning.

I have read the threads here on the mods regarding foil tape over the top holes of burnpot and over the airwash to increase airflow. Which I will try

If I remove the combustion motor and then the manifold (?) will I have access to the channel the accepts the sliding damper? What would be a good high temperature lube to use once i get access to to damper channel?

Since the damper adjustment is manually operated what is the damper adjustment on the control panel? a potinetmeter (sp)?

Thanks,

Mark_ms

 

[Bioburner]

The fuel speed also regulates exaust speed. To properly clean will need wire-coat hanger piece to go up from the ash drawer into the wall behind the firebrick-board threw the ash slide outs. Also run the wire around the wall from the round access holes. Removel of the exaust fan is a pain but may need to be done since not properly maintained. Stove could benefit from leaf blower treatment. I still maintain a couple of these stoves. Also will need to remove the fuel stirrer and grease the bushing that comes through from the right. Convection fan is easily removed for eviction of dust bunnies. I use never seize as it contains graphite.




Mark_ms[/quote]

 

[DexterDay]

The standard Countryside needs no Mods done to it. The mod threads are all on the Baby Countryside.

Clean the stove well, remove the.combustion blower and see how to slide the damper back and in. This stove is a Much Better Burner than the Baby. I have a friend with the Baby Countryside and one with the 3500 Countryside. Night and Day difference.

The 3500 can run with the damper almost closed (pushed in is closed/pull out is open).

So get it clean, get the slider back in (if its only a small chunk, I wouldn't really worry), clean the.combustion blower vanes, oil the motors, and fire it up. They burn like champions. The only thing missing from this stove, to make it a Great stove, is an ignitor. Other than that, its one of the better burning stoves out there. Just gotta keep it clean.

 

[Bioburner]

Here is a picture of exaust slide that is modified for a bit less air and ease of operation. Was told to do this by AES. This slide is from a retired 2003 that survived my house fire and was run till last year.

 

[Mark_ms]

Dexterday and Bioburner,
Thank you for the info, I am going back in a little bit to take apart the combustion fan. I take it that the combustion fan is a varible speed fan depending fuel feed.
If I take off combustion fan and housing will I be able to see into the section that the sliding damper resides?
Biofuel the damper you showed is almost exactly like the one he has. My thought on the missing piece was that it wouldn't make too much difference either.
dexterday thanks for the heads up on the mods not being needed.

mark_ms

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

When you get through with the torture devices in all of those orifices that give access to places with ash, do a bit of tapping on the firebox wall if they are made of steal this will loosen up some more ash, then attach a leaf blower to the venting and let it run for several minutes while you do more thumping and poking.

Hey he might as well do a really deep cleaning right?

.

 

[Bioburner]

Heres a pic of the exaust slider slot. Should be able to clean with a rat tail, or flat needle file.There is a pellet pot that is deeper and does not use stirrer but you have to scoop out everyday, quite verse less work

 

[BlackIce36]

Thanks so much for posting pictures of the exhaust slide and slot! I bought a used stove and couldn't figure out why I was getting low heat and high fuel use. I read the manual online and noticed I was completely missing the manual exhaust adjustment. It wasn't until I saw your pictures that I realized that what I was told was a 'clean out tool' was actually the exhaust slider removed from the unit. ... i just wish I would have came across this thread 40 bags of pellets ago... thanks again!

 

[Bioburner]

Picture is worth a thousand words. I told the owner of AES that a video of cleaning and operating the stove was needed. Probably afraid that it would curb sales if people saw how much work to keep clean.
Good luck

 

[Mark_ms]

Bioburner,
Thanks for pic on damper slider, I was able to clean it out using wire brush and elbow grease and now it shuts completely (less missing corner section).
I put everything back together last pm and going back today to retighten all the screws and fire it up.
I could not believe the amount of ash buildup in combustion chambers and in channel between chamber and combustion fan and out to exhaust over 3 years. I wish i took pics but it did happen!
Owner says he always on startup on heat setting 1 and not 3 as per owners manual any thoughts?

 

[DexterDay]

Setting 3 helps to get the stove up to temp? If the POF isn't satisfied, then the stove goes into shutdown.

If he has been getting away with level 1, maybe its because of the airflow issues and ash build up. With a clean stove that breathes well, he may need 3. I would start it, per the manual.

 

[Bioburner]

Like Dexter said there is a snap disc that needs to be satisfied in a couple minutes otherwise the stove wants to shut down. If the fire starts to die before its satisfied one can turn the stove off momentarly then back on resetting the timer. If the room is real cool you may have to do this. Also the manual suggests running the stove on high (10 minutes or so) and with the manual damper out to help flush out the ash in the stove daily. Have to find a manual to make sure on how often. This will help to keep the stove cleaning chore reasonable.

 

[Mark_ms]

BB and DD I will start it up per manual, I think Dexter is right he got away with starting up on setting 1 due to ash build up.
The unit is a basement install and is cold and damp, which explains the rust that I have found in cleaning.
Will get back later...

 

[Mark_ms]

Went back today double checked everything retightend bolts and screws, combustion area is empty, combustion and convection motors cleaned ash pan is empty, fresh pellets in burn pot.
Fired it up flame is more active then previous startup but still seems to be on the lazy side. Convection fan did not come on initially, it did come on 2nd start up. Pumps out heat through middle of airflow cooler on sides (maybe I missed section on left and right side of heat exchangers)
There are 2 sets of holes (3L3R) below door and above ashpan they were blowing cool air out,looked in manual but does not say what these are.
Ashpans were closed, tried adjusting manual airflow but no noticeable change in flame.
I don't think I missed anything in clean out or reassembling in fact I had no spare parts
What have I missed??

 

[Bioburner]

Changing the manual draft should make a major swing in flame. Something is still plugged. I just got done working on a stove. I guess I should have shot some pics.

 

[Mark_ms]

Changing the manual draft should make a major swing in flame. Something is still plugged. I just got done working on a stove. I guess I should have shot some pics.

Barely noticeable change in flame, but I mean just barely.
What do the holes I mentioned earlier do?
Pics would be good..
Rather frustrating to say the least...

 

[DexterDay]

I agree. With the rod wide open, my buddies will almost Shoot pellets out of the pot

Make sure the ash pan is sealed well, ash trap doors are sealed well, and door gasket is good (test with dollar bill).

Those small holes you see should be sucking air in. As they are for the airwash.

If its not a gasket, then I agree with BioBurner. Its still got a plug somewhere.

 

[Bioburner]

Those holes are part of the exchanger system. Usually not much hot air though unlike a lot of us here

 

[Mark_ms]

New gaskets on door passes $$ test, new gasket on ashpan door and is tight.
Holes are blowing cool air and at a fairly good clip.
Ashtrap door (slides) should they have gaskets too? if so where should they be?

 

[Bioburner]

Did you by chance clean the air intake behind the stove? Found a huge mouse nest in my Uncles stove that choked the stove. What a stinky mess but stove ran great after we cleaned the vermin out. Flapper has been known to stick closed as well.

 

[Mark_ms]

I did stick a brush in there, seemed clear..but Flapper?? how far in would it be???

 

[Bioburner]

It's just inside the inlet pipe about 2 1/2 inches. Should be able to push in and look to see if everything is clear.

 

[Mark_ms]

Round 2
Rechecked combustion chamber with inspection mirror found more ash got that out.
No flapper found in air intake can see to the end of air intake that chamber was clear.
I reamed out the flue again, LBT is not an option just yet (we don't have one)


Restarted still have issue with airwash holes on left and right side blowing out cold air.

I am wondering if maybe at this point there may be three issues,
1) no flapper in air intake and no OAK
2) motor does not seem to have much change in RPM between settings 1,2, and 3 possibly due to overworking itself from 3 years of non-cleaning?
3) Venting from exhaust we have @12 inch horizontal run, 5 foot vertical straight run then 17 foot horizontal run (underneath deck) with very little change of rise terminating 2 feet beyond end of deck with 45 degree downward exit, no cap of anykind

Any more thoughts? ideas?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

17 Feet of horizontal vent is a major no no (I do hope that is at least 4" vent and not 3" stuff), I suspect the maker of the stove says no more than 4' of horizontal, further there should be at least a 17 x 0.25 inch (4.25") rise from end to end.

I see the tools of stove torture in your immediate future starting with brushes (various), vacuums, small vacuum tools and flexible hoses, air compressor, leaf blower (final suck out and then at least once per ton there after). Combustion blower gasket, etc... while you are in there cleaning crud out check the gaskets and replace any that fail the dollar bill test.

 

[Mark_ms]

17 Feet of horizontal vent is a major no no (I do hope that is at least 4" vent and not 3" stuff), I suspect the maker of the stove says no more than 4' of horizontal, further there should be at least a 17 x 0.25 inch (4.25") rise from end to end.

I see the tools of stove torture in your immediate future starting with brushes (various), vacuums, small vacuum tools and flexible hoses, air compressor, leaf blower (final suck out and then at least once per ton there after). Combustion blower gasket, etc... while you are in there cleaning crud out check the gaskets and replace any that fail the dollar bill test.

Smokey,
I have replaced all the gaskets in hopper and doors they pass $$ test, combustion motor gaskets have been replaced stove has been cleaned, other than leafblower thingy.
Venting is 4 inch and is dealer install (although they are no longer in business) I agree it is a very long run........