Mill-Pac Black

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mmeister55

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 11, 2009
13
Detroit area, Michigan
I just received an ss chimney liner kit for my wood burning insert installation. It came with a tube of Mill-Pac Black. But there aren't any instructions with the kit. Where am I supposed to use the Mill-Pac Black? Which kit parts is it supposed to seal?
 
You can probably use it to seal the top plate to your terra cotta flue tiles, as well as the other locations,
if you have enough of it...
 
mmeister55 said:
Sounds logical. I'll use if for that. Is it typically not needed for anything at the top of the chimney?
Correct. It needs to be heat cured.
 
Would it be better to use the red high temp adhesive to seal the top plate becuase mill-pac is not technically an adhesive?
 
mmeister55 said:
Would it be better to use the red high temp adhesive to seal the top plate becuase mill-pac is not technically an adhesive?
Use standard clear silicone to adhere top plate to top of flue tile
 
Yes, regular silicone will work fine for the top cap. Brush the top mortar clean and dry first, then put down a generous slather before putting on the top cap.
 
mmeister55 said:
Really just standard silicone caulk? Not high-temp but just standard?
Yes... regular silicone is good to about 400-450F. Your top plate will get nowhere near that unless you have chimney fire!
 
Bubbavh said:
mmeister55 said:
Really just standard silicone caulk? Not high-temp but just standard?
Yes... regular silicone is good to about 400-450F. Your top plate will get nowhere near that unless you have chimney fire!

I beg to differ. I've seen regular GE silicone run down the sides of
the terra cotta & then down the bricks & it's biotch to clean off...
& NO there was not a chimney fire...
Use RTV or the Mill-pac. Once either one sets up, it'll be just fine...
 
Could be that the stove was fired up before allowing the silicone to set? I did assume that one would clean up ooze on the edges before finishing the job. Once it sets up, it will not ooze at all.

FWIW, our cap had GE Silicone on it for 5 years, no ooze. When I pulled the cap, it took the mortar off with it. :)
 
Well, it may have been an aberration, but we had to return to the job site -
woodstove install with a Stainless Steel Liner/ tee kit - to bring the customer a door screen
& the GE Silicone had run down the tile & brick & the customer was P-o'd about it...
We told em not to burn for a day & they assured us they hadn't, but we ONLY use RTV
on wood liners now
 
Bubbavh said:
mmeister55 said:
Sounds logical. I'll use if for that. Is it typically not needed for anything at the top of the chimney?
Correct. It needs to be heat cured.

How long does it take for the Mill-Pac to cure? I installed my gas fireplace vent (horizontal B-vent) using Mill-Pac. Once it is running hot, it really stinks (my eyes water). My CO sensor doesn't detect COx - so I can only think it is the Mill-Pac degassing around the vent joints. I've let the fireplace run hot for ~ 3 hours. But it still smells. I really gooped on the Mill-Pac so perhaps I need to reset the joint and use less caulking? Any ideas would be really helpful!

Thanks,

Dave
 
I don't know for sure, but for a gas fireplace I would only use RTV which is what MagnaFlex supplies to their OEM customers who do gas vent... Mill Pac is used on Gas vent fireplaces though
huckerson said:
Bubbavh said:
mmeister55 said:
Sounds logical. I'll use if for that. Is it typically not needed for anything at the top of the chimney?
Correct. It needs to be heat cured.

How long does it take for the Mill-Pac to cure? I installed my gas fireplace vent (horizontal B-vent) using Mill-Pac. Once it is running hot, it really stinks (my eyes water). My CO sensor doesn't detect COx - so I can only think it is the Mill-Pac degassing around the vent joints. I've let the fireplace run hot for ~ 3 hours. But it still smells. I really gooped on the Mill-Pac so perhaps I need to reset the joint and use less caulking? Any ideas would be really helpful!

Thanks,

Dave
 
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