NAPOLEON NPS40 Please HELP!!!

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shy-ky

New Member
Sep 20, 2011
12
Lakes Region, NH
I have had this Napoleon NPS40 since 08'. Last fall something happened, (power surge, unknown?). Killed my ignitor. Installed a new one. Also fried. The second I plug my stove in or turn surge protector on, the stove starts up. I'm guessing it is the combustion fan I am hearing. Auger will start and run if knob is turned. Combustion fan will not shut off after fire is out. What will I need to fix this to get it back to it's former burning days. I have a new ignitor waiting and have read posts about ignitor limit switch from Grainger with mounting bracket. What is the best way to diagnose this without paying someone $200 an hour, when I can fix myself. Thanks.
 
Sounds like a control board issue??? Make sure to buy a good surge protector once you get it fixed. Not a cheap "strip" one. Get one that is dedicated for just one outlet. Do a search under surge protectors here and some good threads will come up.
 
Welcome to the group!

Its been a long while since I tinkered with the older analog controller. Napoleon NPS40 uses the older analog with the timer relay blocks. I think it has to do with a snap disc that tells the stove there's fire(POF? ). Switch might be stuck. You can check it with a ohm meter. Should be open with a cold stove, If closed the switch is NG.

There is also another issue if it fried the new igniter as soon as it was installed. I would not install the new one just yet! Downloading manual!

Here is a clip from the manuals diagnostic area!

Unit will not turn off:

- Disconnect one of the brown wires from the exhaust temperature sensor and if the unit continues to
operate, contact your local dealer for service.
- Compare the wiring diagram to the start control module and the connections to the 140°F (60°C)
temperature sensor. Check the connections.
- Remove one of the brown wires from the 140°F (60°C) temperature sensor. The heater should be shut
down right away as long as the start button was not pressed within 15 minutes of this test. If the heater
shuts down within 15 minutes, replace the 140°F (60°C) sensor. If the heater does not shut down in 15
minutes, test the switch.
- The heater must be cold to test the switch. Pull the plug, then plug the heater back in. If the heater fails
to start, replace the switch.
 

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POF is what Enviro calls it. Napoleon calls it the low limit switch. Controls are very similar.

With stove cold.
Unplug the stove.
Locate the switch with brown wires and pull 1 brown wire off the switch. Don't let the wire contact any part of the stove(I bend the wire so it just stays out in the air away from stove chassis). Now plug the stove back in. If the stove doesn't start i'd say the switch is your issue!

keep us posted
 
Seems this is something I missed! It sounds like they wanted you to pull the brown wire when it was still plugged in! I don't recommend that unless your waring insulated gloves!

So if you pull the plug does it start right back up when you plug it back in??

The heater must be cold to test the switch. Pull the plug, then plug the heater back in. If the heater fails
to start, replace the switch.
 
I'd be looking at that blower over ride switch on the upper right of the print Jay provided. Locate it and take off one of those purple wires. What happens.? You may just have a bad switch which is not opening and closing. It may be stuck closed. You will be able to tell if its a heat sensitive switch by where its located. Never been into your brand stove so can't help you there. You will need to locate it.
 
I too don't have hands on experience with the Napoleon version of a analog timer control. My experience is with the Enviro dial a fire! I guess(don't like doing that!) it could be a timer module gone bad??? But they are pricey. Might want to give Napoleon a call or see if there is a dealer in the area!
 
What fan is actually running? I know you said you thought it was the combustion fan but it would help to know which one, or both are running. Are you getting air out of the stove?
 
The switch their talking about doesn't sound like its the blower over-ride switch. Sounds more like the start switch. Not much for diagnostics in the manual! Whats there is vague!

I am guessing its a momentary switch that starts the timer block. If that switch is stuck it will not let the timer block clear/reset. But only a guess!!!
 
sounds like the low limit switch is stuck closed, or the relay to it on the circuit board is cooked, if the fans run as soon as you plug it in. It thinks it's got fire, its trying to cool off as soon as you juice it. If you pull the wire off the switch, then that would simulate it opening, and there should be no fans. However, if it does it after pulling the wire, and no wires are bare/ grounding out on the unit, then it's probably your board. Cooking igniters prior would lead my thniking to the board, but check all the wires as well b4 spending money on a board.
 
It's definitely the combustion blower that stays on. All I can think of is a bad high limit switch or power control? How do I test these? Thank you everybody for the help. It is appreciated.
 
Upon further investigation, I found the 120 degree ignitor switch has kinda burnt off its base and is hanging out of position. Could this be the problem? How do I test this?
 
Summit, This isn't a digital stove. Its an analog and there isn't a controil board!

shy-ky,

The igniter switch could be caused from the poofed igniter. I doubt it effects the combustion blower. But toasted circuits are known to cause major issues with the timer modules(more poof!) that control the blowers. I see no means of getting to the root problem with what Napoleon has available for diagnostics. Napoleon or one of their service tech's should have a more detailed service manual/book on how to diagnose these issues.
 
Just replaced the POF switch, tried all the other troubleshoots, guessed that I had a power surge at some point, there was no bare wires or signs of damaged switches. Just followed the trail to that 1 part. Of course it was the most expensive one......
 
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The fix was a new POF switch as well as a new Power Control. The power control was the main issue. Runs as new now. Thanks everyone for their help.

Opening this thread back up, lol. So the power control switch fixed this problem? This is the one that lights orange?
 
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