Hopefully, the installer has the wisdom to look for causes outside of the installation too.The testing and solutions should be up to the installer and they should assume any responsibility for the install. I’d say you agree with that.
The only reason I mentioned rock wool it refractory insulation is because the poster mentioned it first.
IF he decides to tackle the project himself I can’t control what he decides to do and insulation in this case would indeed be a bandaid, still better than not trying anything...regardless whether the home owner tries it or lets the installer assume all liability.
I think the issue with these instructions is that they are written for one scenario only, and that is, where everything is perfect.
So, for example, where you have four or five layers of medium size kindling that burn in a top down manner exactly as planned (not too much flame, not too little).
As it states ‘if the fire starts to die down, reopen the door’ and what this means in the real world is, ‘if you keep trying to shut the door, as per the instructions, and the fire keeps dying down when you do, you will be constantly shutting and then having to reopen the door, losing heat each time, and this process which should take 10 mins will take about 1.5 hours’.
So, don’t shut the door unless you are 100% confident the flue has heated up to the point it has started creating its own, powerful, draft.
I think I have install-issues - which have resulted in slower than normal times to get the required heat into the lower portion of the flue - coupled with a user manual that gave unrealistic timings.
As I say, further experimentation required.. I am still working all this out.
Hi, Silversniper. By no means do I want to be disrespectful, but it really hurts to read some posts from new members like you.
Guys like Begreen are giving very clear instructions on where to start. And the first order is always to check the wood properly, not just randomly sticking a moisture meter in it. From my experience, 90 percent of all the problems are coming from wet wood. All new stoves required really dry wood to perform well. I have a large flush hybrid stove from the same manufacturer as yours, Freestanding Osburn 2400 and my daughter has the same LOPI as you have. So, I have some experience.
Her Lopi is good enough to heat 2000 sq ft 24/7 with no other heat source in CT and it can get pretty cold here. They advertise " up to 12 hours", but it's an exaggeration all manufacturers do. In our climate, we get around 8 hours of useful heat from it. You are not going to see fire for all this time.
But it should produce enough heat. You said that the blower is loud and you don't turn it in more than 40 percent. Here is bad news for you. This is a flush insert and the majority of the heat generated on the top of the insert should be transferred with a blower. You still will feel radiating heat, but not as much as with free standing stove.
But again, a lot of your problems sound to me like wet wood. The performance can be improved with all the remedies, like block plate, insulated liner etc, but your issue seems like a major problem.
Please, check your wood first. It always looks like seasoned guys tell new guys to put good gasoline in a new car if the car does not perform and new guys always alternate cars computer, kicking tires, opening and closing doors, and doing everything else besides getting normal gasoline.
Man, just trying to help, "hurt" is just an exaggeration on my side, just like claims from manufacturers about "12-hour burn". I was in the same shoes as you are. The person who sold me firewood guaranteed that it was seasoned, so I dismissed the test just to find out later that I had to dry it for another year. Whatever you try with opening/closing your door, bypass, air intake does not make any sense if the wood is subpar. It should be easier than you have it. My daughter learned how to keep a fire in 24/7 mode and to start it from coals if needed. It should not be smoldering after the start with air intake open enough. And the door is usually open for 5 min just to get a good start.I was actually trying to be polite toward Begreen and I am sorry to hear that my posts have caused you hurt.
I sort of lost count of the number of times he told me/ordered me to check my wood moisture level - so I just politely pointed out that I was taking on board all feedback and trying all of the suggested options.
Some good points woodgeek and yes I certainly made the little fire error initially. Mea culpa.
But, I also get issues when I use a big load to start with. It seems like the more flame you have, the more air is needed. So, if I use a big load of dry kindling to begin with , it all lights off, requires more air than the valve can supply, so it needs the door open. Closing the door restricts the airflow in, the primary air intake valve is too mean, the flame dies off and the whole thing turns into a big smoky mess and goes out.
Initially I thought the flue wasn’t sealed. Having spoken with the installer, that doesn’t seem the case.
I think the issue may be that the unit is taking far too long to get hot, caused by the masonry being a big heat sink. Therefore the flue isn’t getting hot enough quickly enough to create the necessary draft to suck air in through the primary valve. This would also explain why it’s output is underwhelming.
But, please let me do some more testing and experimenting.
I'm wondering too. A lot of people don't understand that a huge part of the success is dry wood. While one going to do a solar kiln, the other will trow green wood and expect a roaring fire. That is how I got my almost new Osburn 2400 for $600. Guy said it does not burn wood and he is going to his old 100 years old stove. He burned the same year wood in it.Or it could be that your wood sucks and you dont know that its subpar..
Speaking of more testing.. did you test the wood.. will this be part of the testing and experimenting testing how wet wood burns vs dry wood.. just wondering
I sort of lost count of the number of times I got told to recheck my wood moisture level - so I just politely pointed out that I was taking on board all feedback and trying all of the suggested options.
For the record, I have been using dry paper and dry cardboard and dry wood and dry air. I am not sure what else I am supposed to say.
Sorry, I missed it. What was the moisture content on the fresh split wood surface close to the middle? I would try to test several pieces since moisture might differ depending on pieces of wood, size, drying position in a rack, etc.Having to quote myself here.