New to me 346XP OE

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mayhem

Minister of Fire
May 8, 2007
1,956
Saugerties, NY
Spotted this CL ad and for once actualy trolling CL paid off.

Husqvarna Chainsaw 346xp - $75 (Berkshire County)
Date: 2011-09-09, 12:50PM EDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
Up for sale is a Husqvarna 346xp. This saw was given to me because it was not running and the owner did not want to deal with it. I had it looked at and was told the piston and housing was scored. I bought a piston kit for it and attempted to fix it myself, but haven't been able to keep it running. I don't have the time to fool with it, and it's just sitting around. This is a great saw when running....goes for around $500 new. If you are good with small engines might be a simple fix. Also, it does not come with a bar or chain. Send me an email if you are interested or have questions. Looking to get $75 obo. Thanks.

Sent a message, was second in line for it, someone else was offering above asking price, but I told him I'd take it immediately for asking price and he just wanted to be done with it.

Met the guy, got the saw and put it on the bench on Friday night.

Its a 2007 346XP OE, original owner wrecked the original P&C and gave it to this guy who bought a kit and swapped out the P&C, looks like a 50cc so its been upgraded to the bigger motor. He said he just couldn't get it to run, but it would pop and start for a second. I suspect it was straight gassed as the intake side of both P&C are seriously scored, but the exhaust side is shiny and smooth.

Gave it a couple test pulls, seems to have good compression, decomp works properly, the linkage is all hooked up ok too it seems. Dumped the gas in the tnak out and put some fresh stuff in and gave it a few pulls, wouldn't pop when trying the mfr recommended start, but when I turned off the choke and applied full throttle it popped once and dies. Took the plug out and it was dripping wet, flipped the saw over and a few drops of fuel came out of the cylinder so I let it sit upside down for a few hours to drain the cylinder.

Plug is a little dirty, but in good shape. I checked the gap and it was over .040, mfr says .020 so I regapped it.

Comparing the fuel lines and other setup between the 346 and my 359 I see the 359 has an extra line coming out of the fuel tank and the hole from the tank on the 346 is an oval large enough for 2 lines but there is only one there, so I'm guessing there is a line missing on the 346. I see a nipple on the intake side of the carb and another in the orange floor there up by the intake manifold. The 359 has a second line that goes to the floor, but in a different location...this could also be a wild goose chase because my 359 is an E-Tech and the 346 is not, so it could be an emmisions thing I suppose.

All photos are of the 346...thats the old piston if its condition is a good diagnostic tool, the backside of it is very smooth as is the inside of the chamber on the same side...intake side of the chamber is just as scuffed up as the face of the piston.

Just checking for other issues like leaky fuel lines and such before I fire it again. In the event it has an air leak and not straight gassed I want to try to find and correct it before I run it. Any suggestions are welcome.

Do I need a new air filter too? I think there are a few different filter types for the 346, not sure if I have the good one or the one that people seem to have letting fine particles through, which could also have led to the death of the old P&C I suppose.

Assuming I get it going, what should I look for for a bar and chain on this sucker? I've got a 20" for the 359, maybe a 16" on the 346 with a loop of Stihl RSC and use as a light saber? The 359 is rated up to a 24" bar and its still breaking in and getting more powerful as I use it, so I think my big wood needs are set for the forseeable future...so use the 346 the way it was indended for limbing and buck medium wood? Drop small trees too I suppose.
 

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Which side of the piston is scored?

The saw needs vac and pressure tested before you run it imo.

I am no 346 guru though, mine has given me fits and I can't figure out what is wrong.
 
HittinSteel said:
Which side of the piston is scored?

The saw needs vac and pressure tested before you run it imo.

I am no 346 guru though, mine has given me fits and I can't figure out what is wrong.

+1 Where do you start with a saw like this. You start from the being and find out its simple but if you start out simple its bound to need it all. If I was going take on a basket case there needs to be two in the basket! lol ;-)
 
Is a vacuum test different from a pressure test? Is this all just a compression test?
 
vac/pressure test are different, but can be performed with the same tool. Unless you are sure the saw was scored by being straight gassed, then you need to check the crank seals by seeing if they will hold a vacuum. Are you a member on arboristsite? If not, I would suggest joining and I can point you to some very helpful links.

This is all different than compression test.
 
When you get it running, you'll love that saw. My OE with a muffler mod. is a blast to use. Great score.
 
Scuffed intake side/face of the piston would suggest dirt ingestion. Usually confirmed by checking the carb bore and intake ducts.

+1 on the vac/pressure testing. You need special plates (that you can make) to bolt over the intake/exhaust ports on the cylinder and a vac/pressure pump/gauge but it's a very surefire way to diagnose air leaks on cyl base gaskets, crank seals, hairline cracks, etc.
 
I ended up buying a mighty vac 8500.......does both pressure and vacuum. Then the only fun is making the plates for the exhaust and intake side and on many saws, making some type of adapter to apply press/vac through the spark plug hole. It is not the best way (buying the factory or making plates is), but rubber from an old bike tire tube will work as will Gorilla duct tape to block off the intake and exhaust.

BTW, I reread your original post and as Mastermech says, scored intake side suggests it ate something.....scored exhaust side would suggest lean seizure
 
I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust. I may be making an assumption that its the intake. If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates? I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.

Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?

Sounds like it would be a good idea to have a shop do a pressure test for me as I'm not setup to make cover plates for the intake and exhaust ports.

This is my first used saw...if it pans out I've got a great backup or new favorite primary saw...if it doesn't, I've got a small investment in something I can probably at least break even on with parting it out. Good way to learn something new I figure.
 
mayhem said:
I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust. I may be making an assumption that its the intake. If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates? I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.

Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?

Sounds like it would be a good idea to have a shop do a pressure test for me as I'm not setup to make cover plates for the intake and exhaust ports.

This is my first used saw...if it pans out I've got a great backup or new favorite primary saw...if it doesn't, I've got a small investment in something I can probably at least break even on with parting it out. Good way to learn something new I figure.


On saw's like this you have to address every signal thing. (can become a nightmare)
 
mayhem said:
I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust. I may be making an assumption that its the intake. If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates? I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.

Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?

Sounds like it would be a good idea to have a shop do a pressure test for me as I'm not setup to make cover plates for the intake and exhaust ports.

This is my first used saw...if it pans out I've got a great backup or new favorite primary saw...if it doesn't, I've got a small investment in something I can probably at least break even on with parting it out. Good way to learn something new I figure.

Yes, tear the saw down and have a shop do the pressure/vac test. Jay (sawgarage) on AS would buy it from you if you can't get it running.
 
HittinSteel said:
mayhem said:
I'll recheck the old cylinder and verify its the intake side or the exhaust. I may be making an assumption that its the intake. If its the exhaust thats scored and not the intake, does that mean straight gassed or just that it wasn't particulates? I guess no matter what, it makes sense to do the pressure/vacuum tests and verify everything is good before firing it up again and risk blowing out a perfectly good P&C.

Are there telltale signs of specific damage to the P&C from crank air leaks or straight gas/lean gas?

Sounds like it would be a good idea to have a shop do a pressure test for me as I'm not setup to make cover plates for the intake and exhaust ports.

This is my first used saw...if it pans out I've got a great backup or new favorite primary saw...if it doesn't, I've got a small investment in something I can probably at least break even on with parting it out. Good way to learn something new I figure.

Yes, tear the saw down and have a shop do the pressure/vac test. Jay (sawgarage) on AS would buy it from you if you can't get it running.
;-) I hate it.My cousin auto garage has a sign 130.00 an hour if we do the labor, if you touch it 260.00! Really does make a lot of sense!
 
http://arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112928.htm

Couple vids I found on AS of a pressure test and vacuum test. I have a vaccum pump like that for bleeding brake lines and it seems like maybe its easier to plug the cylinder ports than I thought it might be...looks like a good opportunity to learn something new for me.

To summarize both processes, I want to seal the two ports tight, drop the piston to its lowest point and pressurise it and evacuate it through the impulse line, correct?
 
Spend some time in these threads. I can't remember for sure if the 346 has a "dedicated" impulse hole to test through. If memory serves me well, most Husky saws have a hole in to the crankcase at the intake that allows the impulse from the cylinder to signal the carb. If I'm right, you will have to develop a fitting to test through the spark plug (an old spark plug with the porcelin removed is often used).

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/112780.htm


http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/94407.htm
 
Rechecked the old P&C, the damage is in the exhaust side, not the intake.
 
Well that would indeed suggest fuel/lubrication issues rather than dirt ingestion.
 
Did the poor man's pressure and vacuum tests from a post on AS, everythign seems to be in order. Regapped the plug, put it ina nd some fresh gas and the sucker fired right up on the third pull. ZOOM!

Idle seems stable, but it bogs very easily when I apply throttle, if I goose it, it stalls out. Once the revs come up though it just surges to the redline. I'm guessing I've got some carb tuning to do here, anyone have a process they like to follow for best results?

This thign screams...makes a seriously different sound than my 359. Must be running significantly higher rpms at the top end...hearing protection required I think.
 
Sounds like its running rich lean it up I tune by ear, but if you have a tack and set it to factory specks.
 
Sorry Jay, Gotta disagree. If the saw loses it going up I'd guess lean on the low side, high revs @ wot indicates lean on the high side, prolly why she burnt up the first p & c. Run both screws in till they bottom out, then back them out 3/4 each. It should start & run, then rev it, if it bogs go out in 1/8 turn increments till it accelerates smoothly. Now hold it wot & listen, if it misses, or four strokes your probably good. If it screams, give it more on the high side. Once it four strokes put it in the wood & it should smooth out under load. At this point adjust the idle & you should be good. If it doesn't miss slightly @ wot it's too lean & will toast itself again. Hope this helps. A C
 
amateur cutter said:
Sorry Jay, Gotta disagree. If the saw loses it going up I'd guess lean on the low side, high revs @ wot indicates lean on the high side, prolly why she burnt up the first p & c. Run both screws in till they bottom out, then back them out 3/4 each. It should start & run, then rev it, if it bogs go out in 1/8 turn increments till it accelerates smoothly. Now hold it wot & listen, if it misses, or four strokes your probably good. If it screams, give it more on the high side. Once it four strokes put it in the wood & it should smooth out under load. At this point adjust the idle & you should be good. If it doesn't miss slightly @ wot it's too lean & will toast itself again. Hope this helps. A C

Only said it sounds like its fat! (And I cant hear it for myself) Now you disagree to putting a tack on it or tuning by ear? ( Because thats the only thing that will tell the story)
 
Nope, no disagreement @ all to tuning with the tach, just on the bog going up, & like you said, we can't here it run. I always try to err on the rich side of any adjustment to avoid a lean run. I watched a guy smoke a nice old home light XL one time trying to tune it. That poor saw wound right up & seized @ no load cause he leaned it out too far. I learned a lesson from that though.

BTW, do you tune by ear or do you have a tach? I'm wanting one & not sure what to get. Suggestions? Thanks A C
 
amateur cutter said:
Nope, no disagreement @ all to tuning with the tach, just on the bog going up, & like you said, we can't here it run. I always try to err on the rich side of any adjustment to avoid a lean run. I watched a guy smoke a nice old home light XL one time trying to tune it. That poor saw wound right up & seized @ no load cause he leaned it out too far. I learned a lesson from that though.

BTW, do you tune by ear or do you have a tach? I'm wanting one & not sure what to get. Suggestions? Thanks A C

Both but normally by ear and wot in the cut if I have a monster log to do.
http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
 
mayhem said:
Did the poor man's pressure and vacuum tests from a post on AS, everythign seems to be in order. Regapped the plug, put it ina nd some fresh gas and the sucker fired right up on the third pull. ZOOM!

Idle seems stable, but it bogs very easily when I apply throttle, if I goose it, it stalls out. Once the revs come up though it just surges to the redline. I'm guessing I've got some carb tuning to do here, anyone have a process they like to follow for best results?

This thign screams...makes a seriously different sound than my 359. Must be running significantly higher rpms at the top end...hearing protection required I think.

346XP's are 15,000 RPM screamers. Most seem to be setting them around the factory 14,500 spec. I'm guessing your 359 runs in the more typical 12-13K range.
 
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