newly aquired Grandpa bear

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Fritzer

New Member
Nov 14, 2015
2
Northern wisconsin
Hey all, figured I should maybe join the forum as I have been lurking for years and am on my 3rd fisher stove, currently heat my bungalow with a baby bear, had a rolled top grandpa bear a couple years ago never used it got it on a trade and traded it off which I have always regretted, but have again managed to acquire a grandpa bear this one is a "76" model 3 piece top, I read somewhere in this forum to post pics of any older 3 piece grandpas so here goes, it does have the round bar seal, which I have to remove the gasket someone put in, just got it yesterday, dimensions are (approx thru old eyes) top plate 29 3/8 x 14 1/2, lower plate 29 1/2 x 10 5/8, body of stove from front to back 23" deep, across the front 28" rear height 31 1/2" top of plate from floor, front plate top 25 1/2" from floor, from what I have been told I am the 3rd owner, was originally bought and put in a local golf clubhouse around 76 or 77, was there until about 2000 then sold and put in a hunting shack until yesterday which I again bartered for and couldnt be happier plus it was delivered and put in place!! Needs nothing, will have it piped in in a day or so, I have seen many different fisher models, but so far no grandpa bear models with the air vents and handle knobs that are on this stove, vents I have seen on other models, knobs I dont think so, as far as I know no alterations were made. Still looking to see if theres any welders marks. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks
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Your draft caps (air dampers) are the original 2 inch malleable iron pipe cap. They were drilled in the center and a half inch bolt "plug welded" to the cap with weld ground smooth on the outside. Bob's father Baxter patented the dampers with fins as EZ-Spin to keep them cooler and be able to turn with your foot. It also prevented wear of the threads in door and carbon build up on treads. You don't find them too often on double door stoves since the 4 fin cap became popular before the double doors were built. Baxter's invention sold to Fisher dealers for $4.50 a set. Bob felt it was too much and was afraid fabricators would make their own. That happened in Utah, so other styles are found from the same time period.

The cylindrical knobs were common to your area too. Here's Grandma with 3 piece top along with the same knobs and caps as yours;
Early Grandma 3 piece top 1.JPG Early Grandma 3 piece top 3.JPG

Another Wisconsin stove from Portage;

Portage WI 1.jpg We'll call that the "Wisconsin Trim Package" :)
 
Hi Coaly Thanks for the info! Glad we wisconites have are own fisher models........ Got it installed in my uninsulated double car garage, I did put a 3/8" thick x 26.5" x 10" plate steel baffle set on top of 2 firebrick I just laid sideways on top of the ones installed, worked perfect very stable, I have now fired up the bear(I am thinking of calling it the "beast") 3 times, its like a jalopy have to crank it a few times, just slow to get that huge firebox heated up, it takes about 2 hours to heat up that 450lbs+ of steel and brick, my baby bear keeps my 700sq ft bungalow at 80 on cruise setting, once a bed of coals 1 or 2 logs an hour is all just to maintain the coals, 30 below its still 80ish, baby is a rear exit 6" flue and I also installed a plate steel baffle, first year no baffle, good heat more smoke over heated or had the stove pipe glowing red a couple times, after baffle far less or almost no smoke after heated up, at least a third less burned wood for same heat never had the pipe glow, damper is installed but never used it , the beast is an 8" top exit but I installed an 8" to 6" adapter because I had access to some used 6" pipe double wall and insulated, no damper, I do get a little smoke coming out of the fire box with both doors open during startup but after its heated up not a prob at all, the stove is installed 40" away all around from any walls or flammable items. I now know why the updates on draft knobs and door handles, ouch they get really hot compared to the newer ones. After its heated up say 2 hours I have the draft knobs at 1 turn out each or less, and this stove compared to my baby bear with the same amount of wood gets extremely hotter, baby runs at 1 1/2 turns open all the time cept for morning The second burn of the beast after 2 hours I put my 2 qt cowboy coffee pot filled with cold well water on the lower plate, it was at a low boil in 35 mins, I also reheated some leftover fried rice in a pyrex bowl in a pan of water in 10 mins right out of the fridge. I am now going to get an infrared temp tester, I am curious as to the plate temps compared to my baby, once the beast is running for about 3 hrs my garage today at 17 degrees outside, is front half 60 by the stove and the half closer to the garage door ( garage aprox 20 x 24 no insulation cement slab) is 50ish, I can not sit within 2 feet of the stove without feeling like I am getting a sunburn, you all know what I mean, What a stove, Glad I never installed the first grandpa I got in my bungalow, Now what I would ask any body with a grand pa is what temps are we looking at as far as on average of course depending on pipage wood etc just what everyone is getting for temps at various places with whatever pipe your using, just curious this stove is amazing for heat compared to my baby, its almost scary hot with not a roaring fire, what if it was burning as it should for the amount of space it was meant for wow...... I would appreciate any input to the temps your getting, give me a week or 2 to get the infrared tester. Thanks to anyone reading all this and taking the time to respond and especially to Coaly, with heart felt thanks for the info, Fritz
 
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Thanks for all the feed back and operation info !
Keep silver anti-seize on those pipe cap threads through the door to prevent thread wear. (all hinge pins too) If it ever becomes a problem, you can get replacement draft caps from Barr Castings in Oregon. That way the bolt is double nutted to the door and the damper spins on the bolt threads instead of in the door. They now have an online store with the 4 fin caps from the original molds cast with the material of your choice. Aluminum, brass or bronze....
The bigger the stove, the more freight train like they are. Once up to temp and rolling they are hard to beat. An oscillating fan behind it may take more heat off it and distribute it through your garage better. They will heat faster with the 8 inch flue, but it is simply not needed once up to temp. Then they become more efficient with the 6, at cruise where they spend most of their time anyway. You won't need full throttle too often, I call it when you get them really thump'in. Keep the top under 800 !
With the baffle, you'll probably find pipe surface temperature below chimney is about half the average top temperature. Flue gas temp is 30 to 50% higher depending on a lot of factors.

I went with this IR thermometer and have never been disappointed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017L9Q9C/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item
 
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