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You'll probably need a class A chimney elbow to limit the heat at that spot and maybe a section of chimney below the elbow. Just depends on clearances.
If that is single wall pipe, you 100% have a fire issue. It will ignite that wood if you run it hard.
You must, as Ph says, run a piece of double insulated piping through the wall as a crock. Even that would not meet current codes with only 4" around it unless you had 2" of air space - solid masonry conducts heat.
Of course, you also have to go into an HT rated chimney.....either properly built masonry or continuation of the double wall insulated HT that you go through the wall with.
You must, as Ph says, run a piece of double insulated piping through the wall as a crock. Even that would not meet current codes with only 4" around it unless you had 2" of air space - solid masonry conducts heat.
Of course, you also have to go into an HT rated chimney.....either properly built masonry or continuation of the double wall insulated HT that you go through the wall with.
Is the shop connected to where you sleep at night? If this stove will be I'd do it right and sleep well at night.
The answer is TEAR IT OUT AND DO IT RIGHT. Please don't come here looking for options to doing it "right"
what kind of chimney is it going into??
At a min. you should jack hammer all the cement away and install an insulated piece of pipe, then a insulated tee going down to the furnace. Heat shield the floor joists
But the question is what kind of chimney is outside. Maybe you should pay an NFI installer to look at it
At a min. you should jack hammer all the cement away and install an insulated piece of pipe, then a insulated tee going down to the furnace. Heat shield the floor joists
But the question is what kind of chimney is outside. Maybe you should pay an NFI installer to look at it
Regan, people here get weird and prickly when you start talking about safety issues.
You should have heard some of the stuff people said when I was asking about
connecting Simpson double-wall stovepipe to my Selkirk chimney. (As a point of
fact, double-wall stovepipe and Class A chimney are very different animals, even
though the latter is double-wall). I was simply asking for any technical issues, but
people thought I was asking them to give a legally-binding signoff on its safety.
Apparently they feel you can sue someone for advice given anonymously on an
internet forum ...
Anyhow, that being said, what you're talking about doing DOES seem risky. Maybe
if it's a situation where loss of life is absolutely a non-issue, you could fudge it a
little. But I think you need to go with Class A chimney pipe, with 2" clearance
between it an any combustibles.
You should have heard some of the stuff people said when I was asking about
connecting Simpson double-wall stovepipe to my Selkirk chimney. (As a point of
fact, double-wall stovepipe and Class A chimney are very different animals, even
though the latter is double-wall). I was simply asking for any technical issues, but
people thought I was asking them to give a legally-binding signoff on its safety.
Apparently they feel you can sue someone for advice given anonymously on an
internet forum ...
Anyhow, that being said, what you're talking about doing DOES seem risky. Maybe
if it's a situation where loss of life is absolutely a non-issue, you could fudge it a
little. But I think you need to go with Class A chimney pipe, with 2" clearance
between it an any combustibles.
Unfortunately I think the advice your looking for is how to make your current set up work while being safe. I imagine there is a way but I doubt you will get your answer here. This board is full of great people and great advice but one thing you cannot ask for is a way to get cheat Building codes, one of which is 18inch from a single wall pipe to a combustible. Now there is legal ways to reduce this clearence, combining double wall stove pipe, or class A and maybe a heat sheild with a 1inch air gap. But I don't know the exact numbers to give you if it will work in your situation. Regarding your cleanout, you could always dig down beside the foundation and put the clean out on the inside of the basement. This would allow you to drop your thimble down.
Another thing that helps is pictures.
Another thing that helps is pictures.
Pick up a sheet of metal. Leave yourself a couple inches down from the joist.
That will help you out without ripping it out.
KC
That will help you out without ripping it out.
KC
OK .........your a metal fab guy..........your pics of your install are like me doing metal fab work with scrap metal and a stick welder and trying to keep asking you to tell me that its as good a job as you do.
Your install is fairly bad, go to your local shop seek the advice of some one who does this type of work all the time, make sure they have some sort of national certs to show they have made an effort.
Your install is fairly bad, go to your local shop seek the advice of some one who does this type of work all the time, make sure they have some sort of national certs to show they have made an effort.
kinda like Will Smith visited w/ the MIB "flashy thingy"...
or...
If a tree falls (or question is asked) and nobody sees it, did it ever really happen?
or...
If a tree falls (or question is asked) and nobody sees it, did it ever really happen?
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