I just looked at the extended forecast for here. On the 30th and 31st the low is going to be 58 and 56 with the high of 79 and 77. I guess I have one week to get that Summit out of the hall way and into the fireplace so I can do a the break in burn. Which remindes me. Is there anything special I need to do to the surface of the stove before I light the first fire? I don't want any permanent finger prints burnt into it. Should I wipe it down with something like isopropyl alcohol to get the finger prints off before I light it?
Oh wow.
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Its OK Karl the Police will not check your stove for prints. Stoves Dont Talk. We know you have been fondiling it every day since it came out of the crate. You have nothing to hide. We have all been there. Any how I think all you have to worry about is Your plated trims. The alcohol should be fine. Wheres that manual?
The anticipation must be killing you. This is probably the 1st time you have faith in a8-9 day forecast. ;-)
The anticipation must be killing you. This is probably the 1st time you have faith in a8-9 day forecast. ;-)
Dude, I'm a pilot. I don't have faith in a 15 minutes forecast. Back in my flight instructor days, I was taking a Seminole from Manasas, VA to Jacksonville, FL in solid IFR with a stop in NC for gas. The forecast was for no convective activity at all. I'm telling ya I got the chit, kicked out of me the for over an hour. My student asked me to take over because she didn't think she could handle it anymore, and I was sitting there thinking, honey it looks like you're doing a pretty good job to me. Three thousand pounds of aluminum isn't that much when God decides to remind you that you're mortal. I had to ask ATC for a altitude block at one point because I couldn't hold my assigned altitude and we were already in the middle of it.
Hope you can reflect on something better than that when you watch your 1st burn. Just might take all the fun out of it.
Maybe its because I live in NH, but those temps don't seem to warrant turning on a heat source to me. With those temp regimes, my house might drop to 68 or 69 overnight and would be right back up in mid 70's be early aft. Once you do light the stove, if you just touch it for a couple of seconds it will burn your fingerprints right off!!karl said:
karl said:
My recollection is that all you really need is to go over it with a damp rag and / or your favorite spray cleaner to get the grubby spots off. Also do the windows inside and out, again possibly your w/ your favorite spray. Possibly the windows are more critical to get really clean.
Gooserider
BrotherBart said:
As long as the door is adjusted, which remember..... it is NOT from adjusted at the factory.
Hey Karl
It's been a pretty busy summer for me, so not on the forum much, but just wanted to say Congrat's man on the Summit. I'm going into my third season with mine and can't wait to be burning full time again (except for all the freakin' snow). Anyway, enjoy and I think HW has given you some good tips. Don't bother messing with the fan shrouds, you'll find it blows fine, and there is quite a bit of radiant heat that comes off it also. I also saw your post on the fingerprints, and if I remember correctly, I think there is something in the manual about cleaning off finger prints before firing, but the suggestiions of rubbing alcohol I think will work just fine. Don't worry about the firebrick either. It looks like there are gaps, but they all look the same and nobody here has had any issues.
It's been a pretty busy summer for me, so not on the forum much, but just wanted to say Congrat's man on the Summit. I'm going into my third season with mine and can't wait to be burning full time again (except for all the freakin' snow). Anyway, enjoy and I think HW has given you some good tips. Don't bother messing with the fan shrouds, you'll find it blows fine, and there is quite a bit of radiant heat that comes off it also. I also saw your post on the fingerprints, and if I remember correctly, I think there is something in the manual about cleaning off finger prints before firing, but the suggestiions of rubbing alcohol I think will work just fine. Don't worry about the firebrick either. It looks like there are gaps, but they all look the same and nobody here has had any issues.
Good points Willhound.
Also remember the bricks are going to be damp which means your first burn and some burns after that will be pretty tough. More specifically it will not give you "the perfect burn" right off the bat. You will have to spend some time with it to get the awesome burns the Pacific Energy Summit is known for. And be prepared to open up some windows, this "machine" pumps out a lot and I mean a Hell of a lot of heat. Combine this stove with a blower and you are in business! I have had 12-14 hour burns in my first year, no problem. Pick Hogwildz's brain and the other PE gurus and you will learn a lot, plus search the old posts and get even more info about this incredible stove.
Oh, very important, make sure you have at least 15 feet of pipe going up from the stove. I recently added another 3 feet (another expert tip from Hogwildz et al.) and now my draft kicks ass!
I am burning mine right now, only 3 small logs. Still pumping a lot of heat, god I miss this stove during the summertime. Can't wait for fall/winter....
Good Luck with the Summit, send some pics.
Also remember the bricks are going to be damp which means your first burn and some burns after that will be pretty tough. More specifically it will not give you "the perfect burn" right off the bat. You will have to spend some time with it to get the awesome burns the Pacific Energy Summit is known for. And be prepared to open up some windows, this "machine" pumps out a lot and I mean a Hell of a lot of heat. Combine this stove with a blower and you are in business! I have had 12-14 hour burns in my first year, no problem. Pick Hogwildz's brain and the other PE gurus and you will learn a lot, plus search the old posts and get even more info about this incredible stove.
Oh, very important, make sure you have at least 15 feet of pipe going up from the stove. I recently added another 3 feet (another expert tip from Hogwildz et al.) and now my draft kicks ass!
I am burning mine right now, only 3 small logs. Still pumping a lot of heat, god I miss this stove during the summertime. Can't wait for fall/winter....
Good Luck with the Summit, send some pics.
Well considering I only installed and burned my Summit last winter, Christmas eve as a matter of fact LOL, I am no expert, but I have picked all the Summit owners brains on here, made through some trial & errors, and got up to speed fairly quickly. If you stick in the forums here, all the knowledge you could ever want of need is here.
I learned about all by trial & error. The door adjustment really through me off, but once I got that taken care of ( thanks Willhound & Roospike), the beast burned like a fine tuned engine.
I do suggest taking the fire bricks out like NOW, and let them sit spread out in the sun to dry the moisture out. I opened mine the day I lit her up, and moisture ran out of the wrapper. There is ALOT of moisture in that sealed bag. Gettem out ASAP and lettem dry in the sun or even inside the house. That will save you the drying time while trying to get her to fire up.
I learned about all by trial & error. The door adjustment really through me off, but once I got that taken care of ( thanks Willhound & Roospike), the beast burned like a fine tuned engine.
I do suggest taking the fire bricks out like NOW, and let them sit spread out in the sun to dry the moisture out. I opened mine the day I lit her up, and moisture ran out of the wrapper. There is ALOT of moisture in that sealed bag. Gettem out ASAP and lettem dry in the sun or even inside the house. That will save you the drying time while trying to get her to fire up.
Thank for the info Hog. They have been out of the bag for awhile, but I'll lay them on the driveway for a few days. As far as the door adjusment goes, I don't see anyway to adjust it. The hinges are welded on. The handle has P E's new roller thing on it, and the latch is the only thing with a bolt on it and it's screwed all the way in. How do I adjust the door, and how do I know if it needs adjusted? As far as the 12-14 hour burns. Is that for real? I thought 8 or 9 was the norm with stoves. This one included. Also, when you added three feet to your chimney, how high did it make it?
The minimum chimney height for Summits, as noted by PE, is fifteen feet measured from the base of the stove. If you are off from this, as was my case (I had 12 feet before) the draft will not be good, it will be OK but not acceptable in my book. Seeing the difference now I wish I would have done it last season. The way the summit works with the proper draft is incredible. Plus anything over 6 feet outside you will need a roof bracket, very easy to install. I bought my Class A chimney pipe and bracket online for a good deal at http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com, all for 170 dollars!
I will send pics of what mine looks like outside
I will send pics of what mine looks like outside
karl said:
OK Karl, good questions. and here are your answers
Door dollar test:
Take a decent dollar bill or any bill. open door, putt part of the dollar bill in between the door & the stove, close door on said bill. Gently pull on bill, I also tried to slide mine sideways. Do this all around the door. If the bill pulls out or slides side to side with no resistance, adjustment is needed. In my case the lower portion & the side the door latched on was very loose. It took me a couple weeks to discover this and fix it. The bill should not move, or be very hard to move. If it moved easily or freely time for the next task.
Door adjustment:
The latch is the only place for adjustment on a PE. The latch you see bolted to the stove itself can be adjusted in, by tapping on the top open part, slightly bending it inwards. This is achieved by tapping the latch in with a small block of wood & a hammer, or a mallet, or if very careful, just a small hammer. Block of wood or mallet keeps finish from marring. Re test with dollar bill, and adjust further as needed. Keep in mind, when stove is cool & when stove is hot, the door adjustment will tighten & loosen a lil from the metal expanding & contracting. I did all my testing & adjusting while stove was cold for obvious reasons.
On all PE Summits as I and a few others in here discovered last year. The metal framing lip on stove that the door gasket closes against, is slightly bowed out in the center. We all ran straight edges along the upper & lower edges to discover a slight bow. I came to the conclusion that since we all had this, the factory intentionally did this probably to form a tighter seal on door by the slight bow creating pressure on an axis point. Don't remember for sure, but I believe that previously to this, they had problems with leakage along middle or one side and it built up with creosote. Maybe this was to remedy that. I could be wrong and my memory playing tricks on me
.But the two steps up top are the way to test & adjust a PE.
Keep in mind if there is enough air leakage, which doesn't take much, you will not have control over the fire, and it will run away as mine did several times last year. Nothing super major, but being a new owner and already apprehensive, it made my blood pressure rise a lil. Luckily the Summit handled it like a champ without breaking a sweat
. I can't say the same for me As far as 12-14 hr burns. I think it may be possible. But IMO, to consider a 24/7 constant length of burn, 8 hrs or maybe a lil more is reasonable. I have had a couple longer burns, and yes even at 14 hrs or longer, you will have coals to restart a fire. If you figure a little lower in length of time, the rest is just a bonus. All depends on what wood type, how its packed in, and how its burnt. Look up the cigar burning method by Roospike in here and that is a very long burning method.
Off to look at a couple wrecks, see yall.
Hogwildz said:karl said:
OK Karl, good questions. and here are your answers
Door dollar test:
Take a decent dollar bill or any bill. open door, putt part of the dollar bill in between the door & the stove, close door on said bill. Gently pull on bill, I also tried to slide mine sideways. Do this all around the door. If the bill pulls out or slides side to side with no resistance, adjustment is needed. In my case the lower portion & the side the door latched on was very loose. It took me a couple weeks to discover this and fix it. The bill should not move, or be very hard to move. If it moved easily or freely time for the next task.
Door adjustment:
The latch is the only place for adjustment on a PE. The latch you see bolted to the stove itself can be adjusted in, by tapping on the top open part, slightly bending it inwards. This is achieved by tapping the latch in with a small block of wood & a hammer, or a mallet, or if very careful, just a small hammer. Block of wood or mallet keeps finish from marring. Re test with dollar bill, and adjust further as needed. Keep in mind, when stove is cool & when stove is hot, the door adjustment will tighten & loosen a lil from the metal expanding & contracting. I did all my testing & adjusting while stove was cold for obvious reasons.
On all PE Summits as I and a few others in here discovered last year. The metal framing lip on stove that the door gasket closes against, is slightly bowed out in the center. We all ran straight edges along the upper & lower edges to discover a slight bow. I came to the conclusion that since we all had this, the factory intentionally did this probably to form a tighter seal on door by the slight bow creating pressure on an axis point. Don't remember for sure, but I believe they previously to this had problems with leakage along middle or one side and it built up with creosote. Maybe this was to remedy that. I could be wrong and my memory playing tricks on me
But the two steps up top are the way to test & adjust a PE.
As far as 12-14 hr burns. I think it may be possible. But IMO, to consider a 24/7 constant length of burn, 8 hrs or maybe a lil more is reasonable. I have had a couple longer burns, and yes even at 14 hrs or longer, you will have coals to restart a fire. If you figure a little lower in length of time, the rest is just a bonus. All depends on what wood type, how its packed in, and how its burnt. Look up the cigar burning method by Roospike in here and that is a very long burning method.
Off to look at a couple wrecks, see yall.
Oh 12-14 hour burns aren’t possible they are probable with the Roospike method, you will get nice hot coals still after 14 hours and still good heat output. I know a lot of people exaggerate their burn times, but with some playing you will get some long burns. Good points 'Hog on mentioning how it is burned. If you want killer heat output you won’t get the 12 hour burn. If you are like me and like 70-75 temps, get the stove up to about 500-600F and have some hot coals, then shut her down. Then let the EBT do the work and you will get the nice long burn times Summits are know for. But you will need a good draft, so make sure you have that golden number of 15 feet of pipe. I know guys that have 17 + of pipe so for some people extra pipe is needed.
I have my Summit in my Florida room ( I have a Quadra Fire 5100 in my Living Room too), maybe a little too big for one room but I have all windows in my Florida room. I used to have an Avalon Pendelton, too small for a room with 75% windows (good windows but still windows, letting out the heat). I was filling that stove all day, plus the firebox was way too small. A nice stove but not what I needed. I bumped way up to the Summit and I have been happy ever since.
I am a Police Officer with the DEC Forest Rangers and I work long hours some days because of enforcement actions during the hunting season or if I am a search for a missing person I could be gone for many hours. This Summit stove has kept my room warm for very long days of work, keeping my dog,son, and wife very happy.
Once again make sure you have 15 feet of pipe to get that good draft, plus the EBT will not work the way it is intended (won’t have good burning temps(stove will be too "cool") without a good draft).
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