Operating Temperature questions (noob alert)

[VTHC]

Hi Everyone!
Been lurking on the boards for a while now getting loads of excellent information and experiences. I need some insight for my situation that i have not been able to get through searches and such.

I recently installed a mint Morso 1125 smokedragon that i inherited from my father (he went to the pellet side). A mason installed a SS insulated liner (8") in the existing masonry chimney that originally was used for a fireplace (heatilator - which i covered up). I have about 4' of single wall pipe connecting the stove to the chimney through a Ul listed thimble (couldn't run the liner through the damper/firebox because the stove collar sits too high for a proper connection, so we decided to punch through the chimney above the firebox of the fireplace). Everything is working great, have had no problems with draft and such (chimney is about 24'), but i'm having some issues getting the flue gasses in a "sweet spot" when i really load up the stove...
I'm using two magnetic thermometers - one on the sw pipe about 18" up from collar, and one on the top of the stove by the collar. I will get a nice smallish/hot fire going (from cold start) to establish a bed of coals that will usually get the pipe thermo to 400-450*. When i load i place the smaller splits north/south on the coal bed and then stack some bigger splits above that (usually perpendicular). I will let the wood char really good with the door cracked open a couple inches (usually the draft will suck the door closed when it's really roaring), and let the stove top temp get to 550-600*. By this point the stove pipe thermo is around 450-500* so i close the door and "shutdown" the stove draft (which is the door/handle on this model), and let it cruise around 550-600* (stove top temp). When i do this the stove pipe temps drop considerably to the borderline of the "safe zone" non-creosote area painted on the thermometer (can't recall what that temp is) - damper closed to half.

My question is: If the stove temperature is firing in the 550-600* (or slightly higher) area does that take care of the creosote forming gases during combustion? and allow me to not worry about the cooler flue gases? If not what should i do to increase the flue temps? I know there are some Morso 1125 owners on these boards. Was wondering what they do?

BTW: full disclosure... my current firewood (mostly maple) is a little questionable. Been seasoning for over a year, but i get an occasional "steamer" especially with larger rounds.

Thnaks for the comments and or insight!

 

[Dune]

Other than the questionable wood, you should be fine. If you are worried, inspect the flue.

 

[BrotherBart]

At the point you are talking about the flue is already warmed up/hot and whatever is going up the pipe isn't hanging around to stick to the liner. One of the things with reburn stoves is that the exhaust gases are cooler than with the old stoves because of more complete combustion in the firebox.

In other words, all sounds fine.

 

[VTHC]

At the point you are talking about the flue is already warmed up/hot and whatever is going up the pipe isn't hanging around to stick to the liner. One of the things with reburn stoves is that the exhaust gases are cooler than with the old stoves because of more complete combustion in the firebox.

In other words, all sounds fine.

I figured I was okay. Just wanted to confirm with the wise ones of the forum. Does the same hold true for longer overnight burns with the stove burning a little cooler (to extend the burn time)? Once the flue is heated up I don't have to be too concerned with the flue gas temperature as long as the temp is close to the sweet spot?
I guess the goal is to not let the gasses condense on the liner walls so the unburned gases go out the top w/out forming creosote. I hate losing potential heat up the chimney, but a free stove is a pretty sweet deal! Especially the one i grew up with.