Optimum operating temp?

[jj3500]

Hello all,

Brand new stove, my first stove(lopi endeavor. their middle size stand alone). I have read that ideal exhaust temps "should" be ~ 475 degrees. With that magnetic thermostat attached to pipe(eye level). I can get my stove to reach that but only with me constantly attending the burn box(Feeding it, shifting the wood around and sorts). If I leave it alone with the air inlet wide open and door sealed, it only gets to ~300 - 375.
So my concern is, the majority of the time, this stove will operate in the 300 range. Then the creosote factor kicks in, doesn't it? Again, what I've read, the creosote starts to collect when it is not hot enough. So...whats the answer?

Any replies are appreciated.

 

[begreen]

This is single wall pipe, correct? My flue temps vary between about 250-500 depending on the stage of the burn.

Running wide open with a fresh load of wood I can see 4-500 in the flue. The flue temps will rise until secondary burning kicks in. Then the stove top can get hotter than the flue gases. Flue temps can be around 350 then, but the stovetop is climbing toward 600. When the wood is burning charcoal, flue gases may drop, but the volatiles have burned off and there is no risk of creosote. The flue may only read 300, stove top will still be 550.

Try reading the stove top temps for awhile for comparison. If the wood is dry and the splits aren't too big, you should be able to reduce the air, say to half, once the wood is burning well and secondary combustion should begin. If the wood is not dry, well-seasoned and/or if the splits are too large, the fire may not get going well regardless of technique.

 

[jj3500]

You just reminded me that I have a temp gun. I'm going to use that for comparison....now.

 

[BrotherBart]

Just remember to compare apples and apples. That magnetic thermometer on the surface of the pipe is showing you roughly half in the interior temperature of the pipe. I believe BeGreen is talking about interior temperature of the pipe using a probe thermometer.

 

[jj3500]

BB, so you are saying that those numbers are half? if that is the case, I'm always in the ideal zone.

Your barrel pic, I've got one of those in my yard...too funny. Same color too.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

So my concern is, the majority of the time, this stove will operate in the 300 range. Then the creosote factor kicks in, doesn't it? Again, what I've read, the creosote starts to collect when it is not hot enough. So...whats the answer?

Any replies are appreciated.

The answer to the creosote problem is simply good seasoned wood.

 

[jbrown56]

jj,

I have some horizontal pipe issues which is not the ideal setup. My stove runs good between 350F and 450F. The secondaries seem to work good at these temps and have literally no smoke from the chimney. I have very little creosote. I also burn wood that is two or three years old.

Jim

 

[Redox]

Good point. Jim. Watch the chimney and see what's coming out. It should only be smoking for 5-15 minutes after a reload. If there's no smoke, there isn't going to be much creosote happening!

Chris

 

[begreen]

Just remember to compare apples and apples. That magnetic thermometer on the surface of the pipe is showing you roughly half in the interior temperature of the pipe. I believe BeGreen is talking about interior temperature of the pipe using a probe thermometer.

Correct you are BB. Good point.

 

[pumiglk]

I see very simalar numbers to BG. My flue is running a bit hotter (275-425) during good secondary; 500-700 when running wide open at start-up or reload. Stovetop shows the same inversion as the secondaries kick in though the temp has only gotten past 500 once (soapstone?, small loads I am still burning?).