Oregon replacement chain different than factory chain

[wahoowad]

My Poulon came with an Oregon chain and I recently bought and installed a new Oregon chain. The new one was whatever Oregon recommended for my saw but now I realize there is a diference between the two. The old one looked like this first picture where the raker is just sitting there by itself. The new one looks more like the second picture where the raker has another piece of chain right next to it. It looks like I have a very small amountof raker to knock down as I sharpen until I am hitting this adjacent thing. I was looking at how to use my new Stihl depth guide when I noticed the difference. I have the original and was going to put it back on and practice sharpening the raker. Now I'm a little confused about how or if I should be taking down this new raker as it needs it.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

the first one was a saftey chain the second one isnt. The second one is better.

 

[wahoowad]

Do I file down both the raker and that piece next to it? The raker is a little bithigher, but they will be the same height after hitting the raker a couple times. Then I'm filing both down?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

on the saftey chain you dont file the saftey link, just the raker on the cutting chain like normal. Im realy not the chain expert.... but that much i know.

 

[wahoowad]

My Stihl depth guage wouldn't fit flush on my safety chain (the first one) so I just hit the rakers by hand. Took them down a little bit, then hit the cutters. That chain is pretty worn but I decided to leave it on after practicing since it is supposedly sharp now. No telling when I will get to run it through some more trees.

 

[Eric Johnson]

A raker gauge is nice, but you can get by without one if you don't try to do too much in one session. Try to be consistent and just give each one two or three swipes. You should notice that your chain is more aggressive. If it stalls out in the cut, then you took them down too far. Either toss the chain or file the cutters down until it quits stalling. The relationship between the height of the raker and the length of the cutter is what determines how your chain cuts, assuming an otherwise well maintained chain.

 

[wahoowad]

oops, I gave them about 10 to 12. I wasn't filing very firmly, and I also had never hit the rakers before on this chain but have sharpened it numerous times previously. Oh well, we'll see.

 

[carpniels]

HI Wahoo,

I had a hard time the first time I filed the rakers. There was a significant difference in the way the chain cut. Before, it would cut nicely but would give small chips, after filing the rakers, the chips became much bigger and the chain cut much faster. BUT it also stalled more often or would get 'stuck' in the wood. I really needed to rev is full blast and keep going to keep the chain moving. But it cut much faster AND it forced me not to put any pressure on the chain saw (a good thing). I had to rev it full speed and let the chain eat its way though the wood.

Every 5 times of sharpening the teeth, I give the rakers a little touch up. That appears to do the trick.

Thanks

carpniels

 

[wahoowad]

Perhaps worthy of a different thread, but shouldn't the saw be running wide open during the cut anyway? Admittedly I sometimes only run as many rpm's as I think I need (perhaps smaller diameter wood or limbs) but thought I should always go full bore when doing most cuts. I don't know, I'm asking.

 

[carpniels]

Yes,

You are correct. You always need to run it full speed, but I am lazy and I like the 'silence' when it is running slower. Plus indeed on small limbs it seems like overkill.

Carpniels