Osburn 1600 installed. Couple of questions...

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paanta

New Member
Oct 30, 2009
14
SE Michigan
I have a question about the appliance connector on my new Osburn 1600.

It was a _REAL_ groan getting the insert under the liner, and I did wind up mashing the appliance connector a little bit in the process. I bent it back but I'm sure it's not absolutely perfectly 100% round. I put a bead of furnace cement around the outside of the connector where it meets the insert. The connector has a band clamp for the liner, and then just slides into the top of the insert with no means of attaching it with screws. It's not going anywhere, and it seems like a lot of trouble to get in there and drill holes.

Questions:
1. Is it necessary to screw the appliance connector to the insert? The manual wasn't real clear on this. Seems like some people do and some don't.
2. Do I need to worry much about CO leaks? The nearest detector is about 15 feet away, in a hall, near the ceiling. Maybe I'm being overly paranoid, but I'd hate to poison my kid.
3. The air in the room was a little hazy last night, though there was no odor. Probably just the paint curing?

If it matters, the re-lined chimney draws GREAT. I was a little worried because the fireplace didn't draw well at all. The chamber above the damper was a good 5' high, 3' wide and 2' deep before necking down inside 8x13 tiles. Now it's a 6" SS liner, ~18 feet tall, interior to the house, straight up, with perlite and thermix insulation the full length. It was 50 degrees yesterday and it started up with no smoke escaping.

Anyway, wow, is this thing great. I haven't had wood heat since I was a kid, and I forgot how comfortable it is. No hot-for-15-minutes-cold-for-15-minutes crap...just nice even heat. 2 decent sized logs went on at 8:30 last night, and come morning there were enough coals to light a big piece of ash in about 5 or 10 minutes. It only got down to about 30 last night, but still, the furnace didn't come on a single time.

The project did spiral a bit out of control when I told my wife we'd need to add a 1.5" tile border at the top to meet the stove's specs. That 1.5" border became 3" on the side and 8" on the bottom after a visit to Motawi Tile's seconds room. That meant cutting off a lot of the pine paneling, putting 2 layers of cement board and thinset on the wall to even things out, busting out a bunch of uneven bricks, etc. Hopefully the tiles can go on this weekend. I'll post pics.
 
Definitely secure the connector to the stove. One good puffback will show you why. Don't wait until that happens.

2.3 CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

Your chimney connector (commonly called stove pipe) and chimney must have the same
diameter as the stove’s exhaust outlet. The stove pipe must be made of aluminized or cold roll
steel with a minimum 24-gauge thickness (0.021" or 0.53 mm). It is strictly forbidden to use
galvanized steel.

The following recommendations may be useful for the installation of your chimney connector:
• Your chimney connector should be assembled in such a way that the male end (crimped)
faces down to prevent creosote dripping outside the joints. Attach each of the sections to one
another with three equidistant metal screws. Also use three equidistant metal screws to
attach the connector to the stove’s exhaust collar.
See Figure 2.3 (A) and Figure 2.3 (B).
 
BeGreen is absolutely correct. I had problems when only a single screw was used, the liner and adapter shifted and caused smoke in the room and poor performance.
 
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