Osburn 2400 Freestanding - anybody have one?

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osburn2400

New Member
Mar 21, 2009
9
Upper Michigan
Set-up:

Freestanding Stove. Pipe out of the top - 12" to 2- 45's. Then about 18" to wall through the house with a chimney in garage. Built with the standard liner (clay??). Peak of chimney is 32" above peak of roof.


Ok- So I bought this stove used in 2009. Had a VERY annoying whistling from the get-go. Tracked it down to a air hole under the door of it. Put a piece of metal tape over it and it has gone (the whistling). What is that hole for anyhow? I am thinking that the "whistling" must be a clue for the poor draft...

Have always had problems with smoke billowing (sp?) out of the unit when filling. Have made all connections tight with fireplace cement. Used High-Temp silicone on cleanout door on bottom of chimney in the garage to make a air tight seal.

Thought about installing a "fresh air intake" however - where? There is NO obvious area on stove to put one. I am sure I am missing something - but I am not sure where.

ALSO- Brick above baffles or that Vermiculite Board? THere are bricks in mine - but the manual shows the board.

The draft thing is getting REALLY old (lol). Still better than propane - but I am getting frustrated as I have tried several things as a "silent" reader of many forums.

Time to break my silence - thanks in advance for your upcoming replies!
 
and BTW... this is just a update to a post from 2009. Tried everything that was earlier stated.

Yes, I am still having problems (lol).

Hey - at least I can still chuckle about it.
 
Hey man

I have an osburn 2300. I got it because it has a bypass damper that helps prevent smoke rollout when reloading. THere's a forum member, Fyrebug, who is a rep for Osburn. Send him a PM and he may be able to assist you. The 2400 is a beast of a stove.

My best advice is reload only when there's a few coals left. Normally there should be any smoke emitting from them and open the door a crack for about 10 seconds and then slowly open wider.

I have no board or brick above my stove. However, in the 2011 models, there is supposed to be bricks (according to the manual).

Good luck!
Andrew
 
6in. stainless steel chimney liner would probably help your draft problems.
 
If I understand this correctly, You have 1 foot of vertical to a 45, then a rise to another 45. This goes to an 18" Horizontal to an unlined chimney. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm sure if you posted it before others have suggested to use a liner in your chimney. This will improve your draft and efficiencies.

The hole at the bottom is called a 'pilot' and helps to get the fire started by piping air directly on the fire bed and gets better emission readings on fire startup. I block mine since I have an overdraft. I dont know why yours would be whistling unless there is some debris in there.

Sounds like an older version of the 2400. The older ones had bricks as a baffle. The new ones use 'C Cast'. Nothing wrong with the bricks, leave them be if they are ok.

The Fresh Air Kit is OA10500 and i'll PM you the instructions. But at this point, I wouldnt put an OAK until you address the liner issue. It's almost guaranteed, your smoke problem will disappear once you install your liner.

All the best and let us know how it goes.

osburn2400 said:
Set-up:

Freestanding Stove. Pipe out of the top - 12" to 2- 45's. Then about 18" to wall through the house with a chimney in garage. Built with the standard liner (clay??). Peak of chimney is 32" above peak of roof.


Ok- So I bought this stove used in 2009. Had a VERY annoying whistling from the get-go. Tracked it down to a air hole under the door of it. Put a piece of metal tape over it and it has gone (the whistling). What is that hole for anyhow? I am thinking that the "whistling" must be a clue for the poor draft...

Have always had problems with smoke billowing (sp?) out of the unit when filling. Have made all connections tight with fireplace cement. Used High-Temp silicone on cleanout door on bottom of chimney in the garage to make a air tight seal.

Thought about installing a "fresh air intake" however - where? There is NO obvious area on stove to put one. I am sure I am missing something - but I am not sure where.

ALSO- Brick above baffles or that Vermiculite Board? THere are bricks in mine - but the manual shows the board.

The draft thing is getting REALLY old (lol). Still better than propane - but I am getting frustrated as I have tried several things as a "silent" reader of many forums.

Time to break my silence - thanks in advance for your upcoming replies!
 
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