Pellets continue to feed wont light when goes into start mode

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jamcalif

New Member
Feb 26, 2011
2
California
I have a profile 30 free standing pellet stove that is five years old. It has been used less than average. I clean it out regularly. Everything: I brush the heat pipes behind clean out port holes. remove the brick and vacuum. I use a brush to get in the middle where the vacuum doesn't reach. 3 months ago the pellet stove would not light. I cleaned everything took everything apart 3 times before I narrowed it down to the igniter. My landlord ordered a new one and installed it. The stove works with a thermostat. Once the stove reaches room temp. and shuts down, when it drops below the temp set on thermostat and tries to start up again the stove sometimes doesn't start. Usually during the middle of the night this happens. It continues to dump pellets into ultra grate is over flowing with a lot until it goes into fault mode. When I wake in the morning my house is 59 degrees. As I mentioned before, I have cleaned everything including the flu. I checked the installation specs. and measurements everything seems fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
 
If there is ash left in the burn pot after the stove shuts down it is possible that the igniter can not apply enough heat through that ash to start the stove.

You may want to clean the ash traps and check the damper (there should be very little if any ash in the burn pot) to be certain the fly ash is being ejected and the fire is properly tuned.
 
The burn pot being the ultra grate or the opening where the igniter comes thru? There does not seem to be a lot of ash that is blocking the igniter. Sometimes the are a few unburned pellets that fall when i remove the ultra grate to empty the unburned pellets back into the hopper. When landlord installed new igniter it looks like it is pushed forward more than i remember it before. Could that be the problem?
 
If the end of igniter is back away from the hole in the burn pot the hot air will also have trouble lighting the pellets, in this case the insulator is air and distance, in the ash case it is the ash.

The igniter has to be centered in the air tube it is in and the area around the igniter inside of the tube must be free of ash as it will block the air flow.

The igniter works by heating the air going by it past the ignition point of the pellets.

Anything that blocks or reduces the air flow that hits the pellets will cause a failed ignition.
 
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