Perfect Gasification

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

ohbie1

Member
Sep 21, 2007
140
WESTERN NJ
I have read a lot of discussions on air adjustments to get the best gasification. I have a tiny sight window. What do you think of replacing the window with a kiln pyrometer probe (some run to 2500 degrees), and tuning to the pyrometer readings? This would allow accurate adjustment for different types of wood,load,moisture....No? It seems more scientific than looking at the colors in the flame(which my manual instructs).
For example:
www.baileypottery.com/kilns/pyrometers.htm
 
Might work well if all the wood burned evenly and consistently like NG. With all the variables involved in burning wood, from beginning to end, kind of wood, variable MC, etc., you would be constantly altering air flow to maximize whatever your chosen temp parameter was. For me the sight glass works well -- if (after first adjusting fan damper for chimney draft) I achieve a reasonable flame blast (which varies in color and visible intensity from early to late burn) and air control in the middle, leave it alone.
 
I remove mine regularly and clean it with lacquer thinner. It has two fiber washers, one on the sight side and one on the gasification tunnel side. That gasification tunnel side gasket tends to "burn out" and it will break from burn out if you regularly remove the glass for cleaning. I called Bioheat (Tarm) to get a replacement, and they wanted quite a bit of $ for that. So I make my own from sheet gasket material, first using material not really rated for the heat but I had it on hand and am using it, and it too regularly burns out. I just bought some sheet muffler gasket material from NAPA and will try that to see if it has longevity.

I like the glass clean just for the fun of seeing $ staying in my pocket rather than going to the LP and electric co.
 
I got tired of making gaskets too. I made a steel ring, (with a lathe) like a washer. I put the washer on the boiler side of the glass. It doesn't leak!
You don't have to make up on the glass piece real hard. I clean the glass by dipping a wet finger in ashes, and rubbing the glass. Works great.
 
Metal washer is a great idea. You're right that the cap doesn't have to be on very tight and probably shouldn't be, especially with a metal washer. Any minimal air leak is resolved by the boiler draft and negative pressure. Wet finger ash approach, another great idea.
 
Obbie,

I have an EKO40 system with 1000 gallons of pressurized storage.

I have been investigating exactly what your talking about but was looking at measuring all related temperatures (including high temp in secondary chamber) via a 4-8 input thermocouple measuring instrument.

I have found one vendor that has a 4 input device that uses standard K type thermocouples and it sells for about $200.00.

I am going to put a hole in the door of my EKO40, insert the thermocouple and take readings. I am also going to measure supply and return water temps and flue temp. By having one device display all 4 temps on one screen the system can be easily adjusted to get the maximum efficiency out of the wood fuel.

You mention you have a plywood storage tank with EPDM liner. I am now a dealer for gasifiers in Northern Michigan and since I was laid off from my full time sales job last Thursday I am now 'cranking uo my new company". Thus, I would like to be able to offer my clients a cost effective alternative to propane tank storage (not all basements allow for the installation of propane tanks).
Can you send me some photos/info on how exactly you contructed this tank and also the HX's you are using.

Please feel free to contact me thru my website at www.upnorthenergy.com or [email protected]

Thanks,

NWM
 
I gave up on the sight glass on my Tarm and just open the lower chamber door (carefully) when I want to see what's going on.
 
Northwoodsman

I have a rotating disk at the bottom that you spin to line up the sight glass, so I can drill a hole for the thermocouple on that either 90 or 180 degrees from the glass, and be able to use both. I figure if I see over 2000 degrees then I know I've got good gasification. I guess being new to this, I just don't have the confidence that I can look at the flame and say "yep that's it", so I would like something measureable. I found a cheap setup on Ebay pyro. + thermocouple 2500 deg. $85. Even if I just tune it to max. on the meter once, then look at the flame, I'll know what to look for in the future.
 
Geez! for $142. thats a half cord of hardwood. Clean the glass or open the door sssslowly. Look for a blu :) eish yellow jet flame. Sweetheat
 
sweetheat said:
Geez! for $142. thats a half cord of hardwood. Clean the glass or open the door sssslowly. Look for a blu :) eish yellow jet flame. Sweetheat
I kind of agree with you sweetheat, but i would like to see how this works out. I've spent money on a lot worse projects. Got too many tractors....and I don't farm. And they cost a lot more than that.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.