@Ember Hearth I have an old Ember Hearth wood burning stove that seems to be in fairly good condition for its apparent age. My research shows me that the Ember Hearth company went out of business in the 1980 timeframe after many years of producing wood burning stoves. I have no history on this particular stove, but it is free-standing (not an insert) with an 8-inch exhaust pipe, a flat top for cooking, twin doors, and a rear squirrel cage blower. There are front vents that appear to be air input ports to the fire box (which is lined with fire brick on the bottom). It has both steel and cast iron parts. The twin doors on the front allow logs to be placed inside sideways into the fire box and seems to be easy to clean. There is a flat horizontal steel plate that is loosely connected between the legs on the bottom of the stove. I assume that this is a heat shield for the floor. I am including a picture of the front of the stove. BACKGROUND: I designed my house out of steel (no wood construction-- similar to hurricane-tolerant homes in Florida, although the home in is the mountains of North Georgia. It has fiber-concrete Nichiha siding, fireproof sub flooring, 5 / 8 fire rock everywhere, and the basement is poured concrete. I have geothermal heating and solar power augmenting the grid, but there are circumstances where these could all fail, so I plan to put this Ember Hearth wood burning stove in my basement next to my welding bench as an extra work surface, but in an emergency situation, I'd like to be able to use it for heat and maybe boiling water. It is hard to justify a nice new efficient wood-burning stove when it may never be used as a stove/heater, only coming into play during an extended power outage due to a grid catastrophe. QUESTIONS: 1. Does anyone out there have specs/plans/user's manuals for this Ember Hearth stove (or one like it)? 2. I live on 50 acres of hardwood woodland (oak/hickory) so I have plenty of opportunity to gather fuel, but I also don't want to create a fire hazard. The design I am considering is to have the stove near my welding bench which is in a corner surrounded on two sides and the floor by poured concrete. I would like to run the exit flu through a hole in the concrete wall that is about 4 feet above the stove and below the steel ceiling girders (a steel heat isolation plate would be placed above the pipe and below the girders). Next to that would be another hole that would supply outside air to the stove. The plan is to cut into the firebox plenum so outside air could feed the fire through a control valve. At the same time, I would seal off the room-air input ports that currently feed the fire box. The stove pipe flu would go up 4 feet and turn horizontal to go through the concrete wall. An outside section of pipe would continue horizontally to a point about 12 feet from the house at which point it would turn vertical into a stack of about 10 feet. The stack would have a screen cap on it. The outside piping would be removable for storage inside, and both the flu and outside air ports coming thought the concrete wall would be capped off when not in use. During time of extended emergency, the caps would be removed, a screen cap placed over the air intake, and the flu chimney assembled and supported with guy wires for extended use. Data points: the basement is unfinished concrete containing workshops, laboratory space, storage, and a tornado room (all about 3400 sqft). The upstairs living area is 3400 sqft with 10 inches of fire-proof insulation in the walls and ceiling (yes, the insulation in the walls is 10" thick). Here's the question (finally!!): does anyone have constructive engineering or safety comments about this approach regarding the stove? 3. I see no reason to use double-wall flu pipe... any reason I should? (it never passes through anything flammable). I plan NOT to use flu pipe "elbows" but rather "Ts" with a cap over the unused end of the T. That will allow me to easily clean out straight sections of the flu simply by removing the end caps for brush access. This will make very frequent cleaning more likely (once a month rather than twice per season). 4. At what temperature should I run the flu pipe to minimize creosote build up? 5. Does anyone know of a baffle system or method to assure that sparks/embers do not make it out of the vertical flu stack? 6. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance to everyone making it through this long post and responding.