ProFab Dealers

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barkeatr

Member
Jan 22, 2011
212
Upstate NY
Anyone know of a dealer i can order a replacement gasket for my profab empyre 200, i also need the tube cleaner. Direct contact with the company would help if anyone has a contact, i have some warrentie issues that need resolving.

barkeater
 
barkeatr said:
Anyone know of a dealer i can order a replacement gasket for my profab empyre 200, i also need the tube cleaner. Direct contact with the company would help if anyone has a contact, i have some warrentie issues that need resolving.

barkeater

888- 933-4440
204 361 2211
 
i'm also runnning a pro 200 just wondering what issues you had with your unit...as for profab google profab wood burners and there site with there numbers will pop up...
 
THE DOOR gasket is shot, its leaking...it seems to have a special profile and my trying to fix it with hardware store gasket aint workin. Also when i bought it it arrived with all the bricks for the gassifyer all tossed around and ground up into &%$#v mortar dust. Luckily i make maple syrup and recently fire bricked an evaporator, so I researched the right ways to cut the special brick from the manufacturer and fixed it. most of the brick are common, there are a few that have special cuts to create the gassifyer air flow. it was easy to do but burned up a day and a 45 dollar masonry blade. lastly, i paid 10,400 for it plus a delivery surcharge and it was delivered in feb 2011 but it was a 2009 model that was showing (normal) signs of being outdoors for three years. its a great unit dont get me wrong but i guess i feel im owed for my days labor fixing the thing and the other issues. Im still trying to contact the dealer so maybe he will make it right.
 
Still trying to contact the dealer??? Where is he in china.They should of sent you new bricks asap,and for the age i would ask for a written warranty to cover the age.
 
man sorry to hear of your troubles, but as a pro200 user i can tell ya get used to changing that door rope...any 3/4 inch door gasket will work...they way that i fixed mine from going out was i took the smoke curtain out easy to do...that way there is no space in there for it to creasote up, if you do that be carefull when ya open the door...not sure what temp your running your water but mines set at 180 seems to burn better and use less wood. sorry to hear bout your bricks, and i'm not sure if i got a killer deal but i only paid 8500 for mine delevered, but i'm also into my 3rd year now and i love the dang thing...if ya got any questions feel free to ask...oh and another thing is i made a clean out tool to clean out the spaces going to the secondary burn chamber alot of times there plugged abit and ya dont even know it. its just a simple black pipe bout 7 foot long with a 4.5 plate welded to the end so i can shove it down those holes...that made life a lot easier...Hoogie...
 
thanks for the input. ive been stuffing 3/4 inch gasket cord into the area of original cord that i cut out but I think i better pull all the orignal cord out and put in all new cord. now that i hear that 3/4 cord will work I will try that, it appeared to me the orignal gasket cord was a special profile so I held off.

the pro 2000 gasser is a great unit, the fact that i could rebuild the bricks myself is a testimony to the basic design approach. you did get a pretty good deal, most prices i have seen are higher than that, but I did pay too much... my unit did come with a special secondary chamber cleaner that works pretty well. however my tube cleaner must have got wet and rusted and all the wires fell off, i want to clean my tubes out.

i will take a look at taking the curtain off..although i have had two cases of that blow back when the oxygen hits the charred wood...but I think what your saying is the creasoat build up behind the door causes stickeness that pulls the gasket off. Did you use glue that comes with those gaskets or is that glue crap? i question the whole curtain door design, its supposed to send smoke up that little hole to reduce backdraft smoke but that doesnt work that great.

thanks for info hoogie.
 
barkeatr said:
thanks for the input. ive been stuffing 3/4 inch gasket cord into the area of original cord that i cut out but I think i better pull all the orignal cord out and put in all new cord. now that i hear that 3/4 cord will work I will try that, it appeared to me the orignal gasket cord was a special profile so I held off.

the pro 2000 gasser is a great unit, the fact that i could rebuild the bricks myself is a testimony to the basic design approach. you did get a pretty good deal, most prices i have seen are higher than that, but I did pay too much... my unit did come with a special secondary chamber cleaner that works pretty well. however my tube cleaner must have got wet and rusted and all the wires fell off, i want to clean my tubes out.

i will take a look at taking the curtain off..although i have had two cases of that blow back when the oxygen hits the charred wood...but I think what your saying is the creasoat build up behind the door causes stickeness that pulls the gasket off. Did you use glue that comes with those gaskets or is that glue crap? i question the whole curtain door design, its supposed to send smoke up that little hole to reduce backdraft smoke but that doesnt work that great.

thanks for info hoogie.

As for the door gasket you need to get all the old out my seem was at the bottom of the door in the middle then i took a dremel tool and got out all the old silicone that was left in there...then i went to napa and bought hi temp silicone gasket i think its red it does a better job then the stuff they give ya in the kits i used alot of that stuff so it wouldnt leak, then i angle cut the gasket and put the seem at the bottom of the door so i know where it is make sure you angle cut that and not just a but connect so that way it wont leak from the seem. since ive taken the curtain off i havent had anymore problems. as for the brush mine lasted 2 seasons i just keep it in the back of the unit inside the door. i bought a new one from my dealer i think less than $15 and the new one is a little sturdier...ya i also got that clean out tool for the ashes but what i'm talkin about is i clean out the holes from the top burn chamber going down, with that tool i made. and the curtain ya just pry out with a crowbar thats the easiest way to do it..i have mine set aside incase i would ever wanna use it again...prob. wont though...oh and take the door off alot less headaches....lol for the gasket changeout it just lifts right off if ya didnt already know..no tools needed...hoogie
 
Sorry to hear about your bad experience with your Pro Fab dealer. Obadiah's is a Pro Fab Dealer and can probably help you.
We are amazed that you received a unit that was 3 yrs old when the Pro 200's have been selling faster than they can build them, this seems very strange.

http://www.discountstoves.net/category_s/140.htm
 
I bought the unit site unseen as the dealer is 5 hour drive away...I think anyone buying it at the dealer woudl have said i want one without the rust, or give me 500 off...my fault for not going there I suppose. its not a real big deal as they are outdoor units and i now have it inside a building..but still. Hey excellant thanks for the info.

Tim
 
I had problems with my EKO upper door gasket and creosote bunking up the seal. I ended up cleaning the gasket and reinstalling it but over laid the top with high temp silicone. Then I laid some aluminum foil over the silicone and placed the door back on the unit but did not shut it tight just very loose to allow the silicone to take on the shape of the boiler side of the of the seal. Once cured I used white lithium grease to keep the gasket and the boiler from sticking together. Had to doctor it up a couple of times but ran it that way for the best part of two heating seasons without having to take the door off and re-do. Had to re-do a door and gasket for my current "ceramic" OWB so I know lyour pain. Once silicone is in place only close the door until it seals as reefing on the locking mechanism only wears out the seal faster.
 
Hoogie or Obadia...is the profab 200 door gasket a 3/4" wide flat gasket, or can i use a 3/4" "rope" gasket.

Obadiah, can i order a gasket from you or is it just easier if i order one myself? what size is the inner diameter of the heat exchanger tubes so i can order a clean out wire brush.

barkeater
 
barkeatr said:
Hoogie or Obadia...is the profab 200 door gasket a 3/4" wide flat gasket, or can i use a 3/4" "rope" gasket.

Obadiah, can i order a gasket from you or is it just easier if i order one myself? what size is the inner diameter of the heat exchanger tubes so i can order a clean out wire brush.

barkeater

The gasket is 1" rope and you use the red hi temp silicone.
 
what size is the inner diameter of the heat exchanger tubes so i can order a clean out wire brush.

barkeater[/quote]

The spiral brush is part # EM817799 retail price is $29.95
 
thanks so much. i just ordered the 3/4 tape type but i can send it back...thanks again
 
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