Proper Wood Moisture Content

[Northwoodsman]

I am looking to purchase a load of hardwood (mostly maple but a few beech & cherry) that was cut down just before Christmas of 2007 and is in 8-12' lengths. I'm assuming that since they were cut down when the leaves were gone that they were at the minium moisture content. I am planning to have them all cut, split and stacked under a shelter that has open sides and plan to use this wood for this winters season.

Does anyone have experience that would confirm if they would be down to the suggested 15-25% moisture content by this winter?

Thanks !

 

[jebatty]

Most of us, me included, have a penchant for measuring, precision, and having things just right. I have a moisture meter I use frequently in my woodworking shop and when drying rough cut green lumber before moving to storage. Yet, after 19 heating seasons with wood I never have measured MC of my firewood. If it sizzles or doesn't want to burn, it's too wet, has been my guide.

And even with a moisture meter, splits will vary considerably, one to the other, based on type of wood, thickness and length of splits, where it was in the woodpile, sapwood vs heartwood, number of knots, whether ground moisture picked up, recently wet from rain, etc.

I think the best guide is minimum one full summer of well-aired drying, usually really good with 2, and can't go wrong with 3.

 

[MrEd]

My guess is that it would be fine. Cut it up, split it and stack it in full sun immediately. I use almost 100% maple (thats what I have) and find that it drys very quickly. I agree with jebatty - one full season in the sun is usually good enough.

I usually leave my stack uncovered until late september. I also do all my drying as 'face' cords so there is only ever 1 log deep pile - i.e. each piece gets full sun on at least one side, and wind on both - that seems to be better than having one stack directly behind another.